4.11's/ 4.10's vs 4.56

hahahahahahahahahahahha!!!


4.56's are fine for DD

 

How fast joo drive on da hwy?

 

between 70-75 mph (according to my GPS)

 

joo drive fast on the wrong coast....me too here

 

well, lots of things, but mainly the power is there and the MPGs don't suffer too much vs 4.10/4.11

larger tires not only add size but un-sprung weight and rotating mass. I've seen this equation simplified that for every +5lb of tire/wheel you are actually adding +20lb of rotating mass (this is simplified, but obviously depends on speed and many other factors)

do that math on stock vs whatever 33 or 35 you are running and you can see the difference in weight is exponential. the gears need to compensate not for just the larger size, but all this weight as well. This is one of many reasons why re-gearing doesn't bring your MPGs back to stock.

add on top of this the the extra weight of fabrication, gusseting, bumpers, sliders, additional shocks, lights, heavier LCAs and everything else that usually comes with an off-road rig and you are far from factory specs.

after considering all the above, and not wanting to kill my trans when towing, I decided for something that was lower than stock to give some more power. but this is all IMO.

 

^ makes sense

 

IIRC I sit right at 3k RPM going 80 with 35s/4.56s and a 6 speed. Auto would be a little lower RPMs as the gearing is a little taller.

 

285/75r16 stock off road rims...

 

not sure if this makes sense or is actually correct, but I figured out the following:

GEARS
3.93 = stock
4.10 = 4.3% lower
4.11 = 4.5% lower
(is there a 4.33 or something??)
4.56 = 16% lower
4.88 = 24% lower

TIRES
265/70(30.1") = stock
285/75(32.8") = 8.9% larger
33" = 9.6% larger
35" = 16.2% larger

Lower gears obviously compensate for larger tires. When the GEAR % decrease > TIRE % increase, you get lower than stock ratios, or higher RPM and more powah!
The premium pairing to get equal to stock ratios would be 35" with 4.56, like blackhawke and others have said.

I dunno .. I was bored and maybe a little

 

Driving around this weekend i determined to drive 65mph according to my GPS, i had to be at 72mph on my speedo.

Also, i reset the trip A and noticed that when my trip A had reached 10 miles, my GPS only showed 9.2 miles.

Thus, with 35" tires and 4.56 gears, my speedo is 8% faster than my actual speed, and i am in turn 8.7% slower than my speedo. Now factor in the factory speedo is also slighter faster than actual stock speed.

 

I thought that the speed sensors on 2nd gens were not effected by regearing....

 

i thought this as well .. heard the sensors were in the hubs .. turns out that is only half true. there are sensors in the wheel hubs, but they are for ABS & traction control only. Tacos have the same ol' transmission speedo sensor like everything else.

verified it with my GPS before and after regearing.
I wrote those % down somewhere too .. can't remember now though...

 

How hard is it to calibrate the speedo for the regear? I am following this because I am regearing in the near future and want 4.56 and am running 33" tires. hate to have the speedo that far off...

 

For those running 4.56's what is your avg mpg? I know it will differ but looking for ballpark ....

 

dakota whatever programmer thing

 

Stock is 3.73 not 3.93 there are 4.27 gears but not for our front diff.

 

Dakota Digital

 

How do you know which one you need? And does it correct the odometer?

 

^^^^THIS

 

Im running 33s with 4.88 gears with arb air lockers as my DD. runs fine in town and down thehighway@ 70-75mph @ 1800-2100 rpms. i went with 4.88s cause i plan on moving up to 35s