What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

PLEASE BE SURE TO RESEARCH ALL TORQUE SETTINGS AS WELL AS OEM CLEARANCE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR YOUR VEHICLE.

As promised here is my attempt at an ARB locker installation write up. I tried to capture most of the important steps but wouldn't be supprised if I missed something. Only time will tell if this mod was successful or not.

I got my ARB rear locker installed today in a 2010 TRD Sport DCLB, it took about 5 hours. I have never torn into a differential before so slow and easy was the plan. The locker is installed mechanically, no air system in place yet, that's maybe tomorrow. This job was a bit intimidating but now having done it, I wouldn't hesitate to go at another one.

I started by jacking up the truck and placing jack stands under the rear axel. Removed both tires, then using a 24mm socket I removed the diff drain.

Next I marked across the drive shaft rear universal flange and the 3rd member input shaft flange with a paint stick so that upon reassembly things go back the same way. Removed the 4 bolts connecting the drive shaft to the 3rd member using a 12mm box wrench. You may need to place the truck in neutral and rotate the drive shaft to gain access to one or more bolts.

Behind each wheel there are 4 studs and bolts that hold the brake backing plate and axel shaft in place, using a 14mm socket, remove all 8 nuts from both backing plate, axel tube assemblies. Disconnec the ABS plug at each wheel. Next remove all the break line mounting bracket bolts attached to the rear axel. You also need to remove the emergency break cable brackets attached to the leaf spring assemblies. Doing this provides room to back each axel half out enough to disengage them from the differential. All that’s needed is about 3 or 4 inches to disengage the splines. I wedged a socket between the backing plate and the axel tube flange by placing it over a stud so it wouldn’t fall out.

Now its time to back off all 3rd member housing nuts using, I think it was a 12mm socket or wrench. I just loosened them all so that I could pop the flange apart and still control the housing, once loose I removed all the nuts. My guess is that this thing goes about 50 – 60 lbs. so if need be get some help to lower it.

Up to this point its all been rather standard mechanical work so I didn’t want to clutter the post with a ton of pictures. But now its >>>>>>>>>>

Disassembly time and first picture.




Before I removed any parts form the diff. I set up a dial indicator to get a backlash reading from the original gear set. I pre-loaded the dial indicator and then set the dial to zero. Now placing my thumbs into the gullet of the ring gear teeth, I gently rotated the ring gear from one side to the other to determine the ring gear lash which happened to be .008. Before removing the bearing caps remember to mark thier orientation so that the caps go back in the exact orientation that they were originally installed in. Mine had a white line marked across the mating surface below one bolt on the ring gear side.



Now its time to remove the bearings and ring gear for transfer to the ARB locker diff. This picture shows removing one of the bearings. There are 4 indents around the gear casting that enable you to position the legs of the bearing puller; changing position allows you to pull up evenly on the bearing. I used one large 1/8” thick washer with a 1/2” hole which I dropped a 1/2” bolt through and that provided a place to drive the puller against.



Once the bearings were removed I used an electric impact to remove the ring gear bolts, which by the way had a load of thread compound on them. This picture shows both bearings and the ring gear installed on the ARB. The lower bearing was driven on using a piece of 3/4” plywood and the dead blow mallet. The upper bearing was a bit more of a challenge since it needed to be driven below the edge of the stub shaft. I began the same way as the first bearing then drilled a 2” hole in the plywood with a hole saw and used that topped with another piece of plywood to drive the bearing the rest of the way.

IMPORTANT: Don’t forget to apply a locking compound to the ring gear bolts upon reassembly and torque to 71 ft/lbs.

IMPORTANT: Ensure that the bearing inner races are bottomed against the shoulders machined into the bearing stub shafts. If they aren’t fully seated, your ability to properly shim the unit will be adversely affected…. Guess how I know this?



I preparation to trial fit the locker into the 3rd member housing I set the ARB Master Shim (.010) onto the ring gear side bearing. Each side of the shim has a different profile, one side is flat the other slightly convex.



In hind sight I wish I would have taken a second picture of the air seal but what is important is that you place the seal ring on top of the bearing so that the lip on the opposite side pictured protrudes through the shim with the copper air tube to the outboard side.



At times I had to remember to stop and get a picture of the assembly as I progressed. There were times that I was so into the process that I did neglect to get a picture. Below are several steps where I failed to take a picture.

Ok BIG SCARRY STEP: Its time to drill a 1/4” hole through the bearing cap on the ring gear side that will provide a pass through for the copper tube of the air seal ring. I used my drill press for this step to provide stability and accuracy. The ARB instructions show clearly where to drill this hole.

Follow the ARB instructions concerning which side goes against the bearing. If I remember correctly it is the flat side against the bearing. I miked the original master shims that I removed from the differential; one was .013 the other .011. It was the .013 shim I reinserted into the case opposite the ring gear side of the housing where it originally came from. This set up proved to result in more backlash than I desired .012. I removed the assembly and the .010 shim and replaced it with the .011 and a .004, refitted the locker and check backlash .007. A tech at ARB gave me a range of .005 to .012. as the Toyota spec. I reinstalled the bearing cap and torqued the bolts to 58 ft/lbs. After this I greased a section of the ring gear and rotated the input shaft, this allowed me to see the gear teeth contact area which I compared to the wear on the teeth from the previous 38000 miles and it looked to be as good if not slightly improved.

I now drilled and tapped in the 3rd member housing to accommodate connecting the Air compressor line to the copper tube of the air seal ring. Here you see the 1/4” npt tap started into the 7/16” hole that was drilled.




Here you see the fitting installed in the threaded hole.



Here is the reassembled 3rd member with the ARB locker in place. You can see the routing of the air line along the bearing cap bridge and down through the bulkhead fitting. Since I wasn’t ready to install the compressor yet I cut a 2” piece of the provided blue air line, squeezed the end with needle nose pliers and melted it closed. I then fitted it to the bulkhead fitting with the provided nut.

[ATTACH=full]1974465[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=full]1974466[/ATTACH]

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]After cleaning all mating surfaces, oil resistant silicon sealer was applied to the axel housing flange and the 3rd member reinserted. Reinstall the 10 12mm nuts and torque. [/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]Realign the drive shaft and differential input flange marks made earlier and insert the 4 bolts, washers and nuts and torque. You may need to place the vehicle in neutral and rotate the drive shaft to gain access to the bolts.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]Time to replace the axel halves by sliding the splines into the locker assembly. Read next step first[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]IMPORTANT: be sure the small diameter O ring is placed around the lip of the axel flange before pushing the axel in. [/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]Start the 4 14mm nuts on each side and torque.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]Refasten all break line and emergency cable brackets.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]I then refilled the differential with 3 quarts of Mobil 1 75W90 Synthetic oil and took her for a spin. I didn’t notice any sounds different from before, she ran smooth and no abnormal clunking when shifting from forward to reverse.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]All that’s left to do at this point is connect an air supply and test the locking mechanism – keeping my fingers crossed for that. I’ll post the results.[/FONT][/COLOR]

 

ARB Install is awesome! Are you going to start a separate thread for that?

 

I suppose I could do that, where do you think would be the best location.

 

Tech thread

Not to harp on you...
Did it come with new ring gear bolts? You ought to use new ones each time. Did you check the ring gear for run out and high spots? and what about bearing pre-load?

Another tip is to make sure your pinion is locked solid when you check your backlash. Also when measuring with the dial indicator, I see you've got it down in your pictures--but for everyone else's reference, make sure that the needle on the dial indicator is nearly perpendicular near the heel of the ring gear.

Cool install though, nice work.

 

Installed Bilstein 5100s front and rear with the fron set at 1.75

Before



After

 

I'd guess 2nd Gen would be good.

I'll be curious to hear your thoughts on it once you get it plumbed up and running. I currently have an Auburn Gear Posi and have thought a full locker might have been a better choice.

 

nice!

 

Did my 5k service.

 

Put about 500 miles on the odometer. Drove from San Diego to Flagstaff, AZ. Tomorrow I will start the trip from AZ to NC, after checking out the Grand Canyon.

 

Nope did not come with new bolts, do you think this is a big enough issue to require disassembly and replacement?

Pre-Load: If I understand this correctly, I followed the ARB installation instructionswith the exception of using a case spreader. Mitch at ARB Tech Support instructed that I could tap the shims in using a soft face mallet which worked fine

I suppose this is a good suggestion concerning the dial indicator. I hope none of these issure requires breaking this thing down again.

 

Head on over, my jack needs a workout.

 

KenLyns,

How about moving the lady in the yellow wet suit up about a foot. I think I recognize her. If you move her up I will know for sure.

Thanks in advance.

 

Got a new BMX to throw in the back and try to find good places to injure myself. 24" Pitch Black Sapient


And where my lift kit savings went instead... I Overhauled my dad's 57 chevy for Fathers Day instead. Spend a couple hundred on myself, and couple grand on pops. Yes, they are Foose, and they are a snug ass fit.


My taco feels so neglected

 

I have recently been considering adopting a son - you iterested? I'm thinking you would make a great son.

 

lol, it's amazing how many adoption offers I have gotten since yesterday...

Funny thing is I was the evil genius kid growing up. Ferris Bueller meets Doogie Howser, with a deathwish.

The real crap thing, I think I re-broke my right foot. Car shifted and the last wheel dropped on my foot that got pulled under a F450 Dually when a work truck merged into me in September and hit-n-ran me on my Ducati. I saved the bike from any harm but mangled my right foot.

There was a large crunch last night, and I'm pretty sure it re-broke or there are more fragments floating in my foot. My whole family was like "that sounded like a bad crunch" And dealing with my medical or trying to get time to go is more painful than the foot.

And original reason for quote... My buddy Clint Ewing and I joke that every day we are just Living the life! and we are gonna make tshirts that say that, lol! My boy is a Pro Stunt Rider

 

Alright so maybe I rethink the adoption thing, sounds like you would cost me the farm with medical bills. All kidding aside, hope your not seriously hurt and everything is where it belongs.

 

I think you'll be okay with the bolts, but most will suggest you use new ones each time, cheap insurance I suppose.

The pinion bearings and the carrier bearings are going to require pre-load. I don't know what toyota specifies though. As for the carrier bearings, IIRC your 8.4 diff uses a shim style whereas the 8" e-locker uses a threaded adjusting wheel to adjust pre-load.

With the 8.4 you'll have to add shims until you get your pre-load. I'm not sure how toyota specs but on the diffs I've done I've used a pry bar to pry sideways on the ring gear gently until I get my pre-load to zero and then add whatever shims you need.

Once you have your pre-load set then if you need to adjust pinion depth you can move shims from one side to the other.

For the pinion pre-load you'll need an in-lbs dial indicating torque wrench. I don't know the numbers off hand but you'll need to adjust shims or if it's the crush sleeve then you'll tighten until you get the right amount of drag.

I won't say for sure this is how you need to do it because I've not done a toyota diff (and I'm not an expert at this) but I'd double check on the pre-load of some of the stuff.

 

Thanks for the advise, I will look into the pre-load, however, I believe the shims I placed on either side of the locker between the outer bearing race and the caps applies the necessary pre-load. These shims required considerable force using a dead blow hammer to install. I will call ARB today and verify this.

 

Added a few bolt ons...I think it looks good. I know that most of you do not like the bull bars, but I like the way it looks and it may be a good place to hang lights someday...

 

SWAP?? They SHOULD make a V8, please post a detailed right up and pics if and when you do this. I've looked into diesel swaps but wow, might as well by another truck or TWO!