285's Leveled with NO RUBBING!!!! With Pics!

So to clarify to all the people that say you will have to do MAJOR trimming, you do not. I have the new Method Double Standard wheels with 285/70/17 BFG A/T KO's and I BARELY had to do any trimming. I mean it was the slightest bit. All I did was level the front with Camburg Coilovers and will be getting Camburg UCA's soon to finish off the suspension, but I am extremely happy with the results with the VERY LITTLE rubbing issue and the truck also looks great!

I will have more/better pics tomorrow. I would have taken more pics today, but it was getting dark when I finished putting them on. Hope you guys like it!

Just to let you guys know the white stuff on the wheels is just some lub from when the tires were put on. Was to excited and took the picture while I had as much light as I could get!

 

Looks good. Your title could use a little work. It says "NO RUBBING", but your post says you have some. You may want to flex those tires a bit at full left and right just to make sure the trimming you did do will be enough. Be sure to post some pictures when you get the UCA added on. Best of luck.

Frank

 

Yea I realized that after the fact and I will get pics up later but you will see what I am talking about. I only actually cut in one place and that was the drivers side on the back and it wasnt rubbing. It was SO CLOSE that I knew when I was in reverse and the suspension compressed that it would rub so I went ahead and cut it anyways to be safe. Ill get pics up later this afternoon.

 

Truck looks great, congrats.
Go wheel it hard and report back, you might be surprised where it rubs. Smart to do a little at a time though. You will probably end up with a cab mount chop, pinch weld hammered over and all that plastic hacked up if you intend to use it pretty hard. All terrain tires are def more forgiving though, the muds with the big shoulder lugs require addl clearance.

 

All 285's will rub if you wheel your truck that's where most of the rubbing is happening not street driving. Go and wheel your truck and tell me your still fine with a little trimming

285's stuffed

 

This.

Stuff it at full lock. You'll rub. Whether or not it's acceptable is up to you.

No rubbing during street driving don' mean shit.

 

I have hacked everything out of the front of mine and even went with a little larger fender cuz the top of the wheel well was getting hammered. I even had to massage the fender flare in the rear. Like above posters said, wheel you shit.....you'll need to trim. Here are a couple old pics from before I did enuf hacking.

You can see here the rear flare buckling


Shot form the other side, pretty obvious something is getting chewed up.

 

I should revise. I don't normally do any kind of stretching or flexing. So far the only thing i have done is taken it off road a little and hit a couple whoops and so far it's good. I'm not afraid to cut at all I'm just giving a report for those doing research. Oh and to show off the truck a little. Im pretty stoked in how it turned out

 

I'm the guy who would rather go faster than crawl. Desert is my friend

 

I think you would cause more damage going fast then crawling . If you hit your tire at high speeds you could shred your tire with one hit. In the desert you need to make your tires clear everything all the way to full bump to not destroy your tires. Don't get me wrong the trucks looks great Id just hate to see you go bombing in the desert and roll your truck because of a blow out.

Here is a shot of my front tire after bombing down a fire road i trashed it on the pinch weld and my pinch weld is damn near gone from beating it with a BFH and a angle grinder.

 

Thanks for the info man. The main purpose of the build is chasing down in Baja and and here in the states. I've gotten the rear to full bump but not yet the front. When I put my uppers on I will probably take off my coil overs and Jack my wheels up to full bump to see where I need to trim

 

If you put in an UCA that adds 2 degrees caster by moving the top if the pivot point to the rear (pretty much all uniball UCA) BE PREPARED your wheel will move rear about a full inch. Here is my UCA equipped ride with 285s and 2.6 caster at ride height, wheel turned left, and under 50% compression at full lock with 285/70r17.



This is at ride height, post chop, front of truck to left, driver's side cab mount.



Here is just 50% compression. Already have contact. There is a bunch of plastic in front of the cab mount you have to chop away as well as some fender metal just to get the fender cleared to that point.

My solution was setting my caster up to 3.4 to move the wheel forward. Be prepared for some cutting man. If someone cannot tell what that picture is of they have no business telling people what fits or rubs or how much trimming is "necessary " because you just don't know yet.

 

Oh, and your pinch weld needs to be flat 9" high. If its folded and you can jam your pinky behind it... its not flat enough. Wheel removal and a full sized sledge hammer comes in handy.

 

Ya I'm thinking mine is rubbing on the cab as well, running 285 70r17s on whatever the popular discount tire wheel is, sticks out a little from fender, did some chopping, still rubs on full turn under a little flex.