Input on my AR build

You should look into an ar-restor hydraulic buffer. I have shot the spikes ST-1 and the ar-restor and the hydraulic is way better. It has almost no recoil. Battle Arms Development makes a sweet ambi safety that is a huge step up from the one that comes in a lower parts kit. I would also spend the money on some KNS anti rotation trigger pins. That's really the only thing that will wear out on a lower.

If you are planning on using the gun more as a target rifle I would upgrade to a 2 stage trigger. Great job on the build so far

 

Thanks man I will look into it for sure. Thanks for your input.

 

Just FYI I've pmed mods to clean this thread out. Your first question was fine but arguing people's responses regardless of what you think of it is stirring the pot, especially when it comes to their personal beliefs.

 

I would add All predators to that list of Az critters. All my buddies are using the their AR's on coyotes and the predator family.it would be great to take a mtn lion with one!

Nice build.keep us posted on the progress...

Az

 

Thanks for the clean up! I deleted my responses too.

Man that would be sweet to take a big cat. Will keep you guys posted for sure.

 

DPMS for $59
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/877204/dpms-lower-receiver-parts-kit-ar-15

DD for $82
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/126821/daniel-defense-lower-receiver-parts-kit-ar-15

You probably won't ever tell the difference, so pay what you're comfy with.

 

Avoid stuff that is not original type equipment. "piston" gas systems, hydro buffers, "accu" wedges... all that stuff is garbage. Merely attempts to solve problems that don't exist when a rifle is correctly built.

"piston" gas doesn't make your rifle cleaner.

hydro buffers don't solve overgassing problems.

receiver rattle doesn't affect the accuracy of the weapon.

Some folks buy into the juju. It's just not necessary.

 

+1
i tend to agree w/ this... KISS in the beginning, ..then see what you like and don't like before buying a bunch of extraneous stuff...

 

+10,000

I don't have a problem with the accu-wedge since it doesn't actually HURT anything, and it has it's uses.
Uses? Yes, just like the forward assist. Yes... that useless knob that, if you NEED it, you have a problem that should be corrected before firing... but it has a use.
Hunting... the FA allows for silent (or significantly muted) chambering, rather than the usual SCHWING SLAP!
Likewise, eliminating receiver rattle helps keep things just a bit more stealthy.


But on piston and hydro buffers, I'm with you 1000%
Piston in particular. There are, what, 4 different manufacturers of piston gas systems? How many parts from each of those manufacturers are interchangeable? Zero.

A conventional AR, when shit hits the fan, can be repaired with conventional AR parts that every decent gun shop east of California and west of New York has in stock.
Piston systems? Good luck getting them when your UPS guy has gone zombie

 

Ive used 3 different LPK's from PSA and they have all been good to go.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/ar-15-05/lower-parts/parts-kits.html

$54 for the PSA LPK or they have one with magpul grips for $68

 

The best USGI trigger I've ever had was a PSA kit.

These days, I buy from PSA, DD, LMT, whoever has a sale on I consider a good company. I then jumble all these up in my parts box (Separated by part) then as I build a lower, whatever comes up, comes up. I can't tell the difference between a DD disconnector or a PSA one. They have the same mold marks.

That said, I use Geissele and Timney triggers in a lot of my rifles, but my true go to rifle is 100% USGI innards in a PSA lower BCM/Noveske/Troy upper.

Basically, use what works for you without a) making your rifle look like a Christmas tree, or b) going for gimmicks that don't help you any.

It can break apart and can get wedged in your fire control group...

 

Check out the MOE+ instead of doing a MOE and a Hogue over grip.

Also, I wouldn't recommend the YHM free float rails, they are well made like all YHM stuff, but I did a build for a friend with one and assembly wasn't as nice as it should had been, getting the top railed lined up with the upper is a crap shoot unless you have the $100 tool to do it, and the mounting method is just not my preference.

Check out the new Centurion Arms C4 rails, they are really great, and are not super expensive. http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=XCENT060912&name=Centurion+Arms+C4+12%22+Rail+System&groupid=591

Also may want to avoid the 14.5" barrel and just go with a 16", then you don't have to deal with welding a muzzle device on, and can change it at home when you want, unless you are doing the paperwork for it as an SBR.

Check out the VLTOR EMOD or IMOD stocks too.

Check out AR15.com, there is a Equipment Exchange forum on there and you can save a lot buying from there.

Good choice with the Rainer Barrel, Rainer makes some really good stuff, so does Daniel Defense, Bravo Company, VLTOR, and a few others.

 

More likely for a loose primer to pop out of the back of a casing and end up there than an Accu-Wedge suddenly falling apart.
I would assume that the wedge would be examined during routine cleaning... but I may be assuming too much

 

Ok,I'll play too ! Mine is built on a Sun Devil lower and i DPMS HiRider upper.It has a 20 inch E.R. Shaw 1in7 twist barrel with an 11 degree crown in .223,an RRA 2 stage match trigger,Magpul PRS adjustable stock and a long floating heat shield with a sling stud/bipod attachment point.On top is a Nikon 6.5-20x44 with the BDC reticle.








From 100 yards,sitting down with the bi-pod fully extended,5 shot magazine.

 

Nice. Post your already built rifle in here instead of this build in progress. Like the lower thanks for buying Arizona made.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/guns-hunting/27862-who-has-ar-15-a.html

I hear you guys in just keeping it a simple build with nice parts.

I already have the MOE grip on order but I have an extra hogue grooved cover I was gonna throw on it.

Thanks for the links to the LPKs. I'll check out the prices with shipping and just go with whatever sounds best.

As far as everything else like the hydro buffer, I don't know anything about them so I haven't even looked at it. As far as triggers I'll probably just use whatever comes in te LPKS.

Barrel arrived today but I am at work and won't be able to check it out till tomorrow.

 

A buddy had a blown primer wedge up in his BCG. He had to call me and I did an hour round trip to fix it because I had just built it for his fiance as an engagement present and I thought it was a build issue. We had a nice chat about using quality ammo after that (though it can happen with any ammo really). Sure ruins your shooting outing.



My last build was KISS but I put Geisseles in all my builds. Best money you can spend next to more ammo for trigger time in my opinion. I don't mind saving money on barrels (on non-precision builds) and uppers (this one is a chrome lined Del-ton assembly) but I do buy quality triggers (obviously), BCGs, mags and ammo.

 

Really if you're building one you can pick the parts you like,and will save some money over having one built or buying one from a manufacturer. Get the best parts you can afford,and take your time. Do you have a set of 5.56 go/no go gauges? They're needed to properly set the barrel I believe. And from what I know a chamber for .223 will shoot .223 well..but not 5.56. The chamber for 5.56 will shoot both reasonably well. Something to keep in mind.

 

Good solid advice from everyone.

I will look for a LPK without a trigger group and look for a good one.

Figure since there is no rush on this thing and shopping around and building it is half the fun, I might as well get some cool shit.

 

Yup.

I spent almost a year collecting the parts before I started the final assembly of the camo 14.5"