Changing O2 Sensor - Quick question

So my "check engine" light came on, had a mechanic diagnose, turns out it was sensor 1 bank 1. So that's the before Cat or upstream O2 sensor. Looks like a straightforward swap, already have my part, ready to go.

Only question I have is after I swap the part, will the "check engine" light reset and turn off by itself after a few miles or do I need to go and have it reset?

 

NO you need to take the neg. cable off for about 20 mins.
now if it was me, i just replaced both sensors, get them both at one time, get a can of power blaster and hit the nuts a few times for several days to loosen them,

your truck will run better

 

I believe Bank 1 is the upstream, its before your first catalytic converter. I'm about to buy a sensor myself and do the same process, the lady at the auto store here read my codes and reset them for me, I guess you could disconnect your battery and do it yourself...thats if it does'nt reset on its own. Did you buy the universal one or what? The guy at the auto store told me to stay away from the universal one and that some cars do not like them at all, I'd like to think he knows whats up but it could be all hot air comming out his face hole.

 

Thanks! I'm hoping changing it will help fuel economy - everyone's experiences on this forum seem to indicate that to be the case. I'm only getting around 16mpg average out of my 3.4 Pre-Runner.

I got the OEM replacement Denso one from Rock Auto. It was under 100 bucks, whereas the same part was anywhere from 160-180 anywhere else I looked.

Denso Part Number 2349001
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=870733

 

bank 1 is left side, bank 2 is right side
sensor 1 is upstream (closest to cylinder head) Sensor 2 is downstream (closest to ass end of truck)

http://www.rockauto.com/info/Denso/DensoO2Sensor.pdf

 

Yea thats what I found, people keep saying the universal one by Bosche sometimes don't work well with the 5VZ-FE engine, the universal one is $70 but you have to run and hookup the wires yourself. I think I'll go with the OEM for now

 

yes its a giant pain in the ass... but years ago, that was all you could get....
anyway got mine at rockauto, great price

 

Changed it today - only changed the one that was throwing the code though, the pre-cat one as I didn't have both to change. Anyway, left the negative cable off of the battery while I changed it, once I put the new one in and started it, no CEL. Truck also seems to have a more steady idle now. Real easy swap, the biggest pain was unplugging the old one.

 

Good Job. Doing your own repairs can save you some money. Your CEL code is still in your computer, but it should not turn on your CEL light. When you remove the negative cable, you reset the light, but the computer memory keep the code in the computer till you have the computer read by a code reader. There is nothing wrong with going around like this, but remember that a mechanic may ask about the code when they read your computer in the future. When you get a chance, you may want someone to remove the code from the computer if you can.

 

Is there really a difference in the sensors for A/T vs M/T ???


why is the A/T more expensive??

 

nothing guys ??


I accidentally ordered the A/F sensor for a manual trans and don't wanna have to deal with returning it and getting the "right" one.


Is it possible to use an A/f sensor for a manual on an auto trans? Are the sensors themselves the same, just a diff PN?? Are they calibrated differently some how?


thanks