Dana Axles

Yeah maybe... but plenty of people run 60s and 37s.

I'm probably not gonna thrash on the truck anyway. I figure 44s could hold up to what I do but I'd rather have the bigger components of the 1 tons so that I don't need to service as often. I guess that is to say I'm not worried about breaking shit so much as I don't want to have to service them all the damn time. I want some BEEF wheel bearings brakes balljoints tie rod ends etc...

I don't want to say expedition but that's kind of where I'm going with this.

I dunno, when I'm actually ready to pull the trigger I'll have to seriously look at costs and my different options and figure out what I really can do vs what I'd like to do.

 

Thanks!

I have played with the idea of a Toy/60 Hybrid using LC 9.5 R&P for the front axle. Brian (@ Diamond/ FROR) told me he could build the housing for @ $1100. Not a bad way to go.

The shape of the dropout carrier VS the flange surface of the D60 front cover is important too. Dropouts make fitting links much easier and also help a bit with oil pan clearance.

I'd also like to build a custom full float 10.5 Tundra rear.

This thread was started with the intention of letting us know that Dana will be selling bare axles. So far it's been a pretty big controversy. And we still don't even know how much the new Dana Axles will cost.

 

sub'd FTW

 

Here's the issue's with your argument. Your trying to compair an axle that was designed from the beginning on a truck that weighed in at best, 4000lb's and had about 140 hp on a good day. Now try to throw that same axle under a truck weighing in at 5400 and having an engine with V8 power 235 hp depending on the year and there isn't a toy axle that will hold up to it when wheeling unless you go with the 5.7 liter Tundra axle but hey, those things cost more than my Currie Rock Jocks and are as wide as the Mississippi river. Birfields would be left on the trail as well as ring and pinions on the conventional Toy axle's.

No one is destroying a Toyota product by throwing Tons under it. Your just being smart and prudent when you start building these things.

Oh, and I've seen the 9.25 blow up right in front of me in an 80 series landcruser that was lighter than my truck, not running any lower gears and running much smaller tires than mine. In fact I had to drag him out of the trail for two miles with my 1 tons. thats 6084Lbs of my truck and another 5500lbs of his truck plus I'm running duals, 40" tires and all he had was really one wheel drive in the front because his front locker stopped working half way up the trail. I love Toyota but even they have their limitations.

I'll support anyone who wants to put tons under their Toy for worry free wheeling.

 

I like the idea of the hybrid Toy/60. I was thinking of going that route with my 4runner but I need to get my Taco up and running first

 

I like beef. If Dana 60s came with cheese I'd eat 'em for lunch. But if you think the diff on a D60 is going to hang up, or if you think it's overkill, why not use a Toy center section? You have to admit, the D60 knuckle is unbeatable in strength for the average and even above average wheeler, whereas the Toy knuckle is a ticking time bomb. I'm not saying they are particularly weak, I'm just saying use D60 knuckles and never have to worry!

 

Bingo!

 

Any news or updates on the Dana axle availability?

 

Alright everyone Dana is in the process of doing a soft launch on these axles now. They do not have every axle ready to price but do have quite a few. I have a meeting this week on Thursday to discuss pricing. Right now I have information on the availability of Dana 44 with ratio's 3.73, 4.10 with electric locker, Dana 60 with standard locker 3.73, 4.10, and 4.56, also Dana 60 with Trac Lok 3.73, 4.10, and 4.56. They will have more product being released this is just the beginning of this. These axles come with no brakes or brackets. You install your brakes and brackets. Please let me know any concerns or questions you may have and I will address them in the meeting.

Thanks,

Brody

 

Oh sweet. Thanks for the update!

 

One concern I have is gear ratio. Is 4.56 the lowest ratio you are going to offer? I think most people that would buy a bare axle to install in their off road vehicle are beyond 4.56's and 33's and are up into the 5.29's and 37's.

 

The ratios are going to range from a 3.73 to a 5.12 in the 44's and a 3.73 to a 5.11 in 60's. So in the 60 you can get a 4.90 and 5.11 that is above a 4.56. In the 44 you get a 4.90 and 5.12 above the 4.56. Keep the questions coming and if I don't answer email me at work bjones@uspower.cc thanks

 

What I'm having a problem wrapping my head around is why spend 6k on an axle swap (I did it once) when you can buy a completely built first gen Yota for about the same? Every time I think of that, it makes me not want to put money into my Tacoma. Though, it is a trade off, with a first gen Yota, you may want a trailer and tow rig too Decisions decisions...

 

I went the 1st Gen Yota route and ended up using my '06 Tacoma as the tow rig. I like it better this way because I can beat on the rig all I want and know that I'll get to work the next day.

 

Why? Why own someone else's piece of shit when you can build your own? I don't want someone else's shit rig.

 

It may not be your thing, but I find it extremely fun to build your own shit. I would spend more on the build, just so I got the chance to do all the work on it and build it with my own hands than just get someone else's pile.

 

I already have a mild build on my Tacoma, it all comes down to spending money wiser, kinda have to do that as you get older I could trade my Tacoma for a Cummins, spend that 6k on a trail rig, all I need is a trailer and I'd have a wheeler I don't have to worry about beating up too bad and can still get home reliably.

 

Why not spend 6k on the tacoma, drive it every day and wheel your life away?