Wiring 3 Kragen 7 in HID lights - attn Proforce and Rich91710

First thing that comes to mind is they're under $15 and have standard terminals.
OEM switches look awesome, but cheapest they're $40 each and you have to buy the harness for a total of around $60-$70, and you only have a couple of icon options.

And please don't use "OEM" to refer to the Scion switches... they aren't OEM for the Tacoma. They fit the sockets, but they don't look OEM, and again, limited in the icon choices.

 

If you mean why is the relay connected to the otrattw switch, then that is connected to OEM fog... its because your only using the bottom wire on the oem fog switch harness to tap for dash lighting. The OEM switch in the diagram is not actually being used for the setup. The bottom wire is (+) 12v that comes on and off with lights and is controlled by dimmer.

 

I wanted the HIDs and fogs switched seperately and the OTRATTW switch says "zombie lights", so that right there is bad ass.

 

Got these wired up yet?? Take pics when you do, I wanna see how it all turns out!

 

hey Anth, I got the lights, relay and battery portion wired up, as well as the wire run into the cab. Then the girls got back from the bridal shower.

The wiring is now the easy part of this job, as I think I want the switch in the center console or the blank below the AC controls. Both spots require some dash dis-assembly. I have no spot left of the steering wheel as each blank is taken up with OEM options: fogs, RR diff, invertor, DAC (whatever that is) and the power mirrors.

I figure another couple hours and I should have it.

I'll keep you posted in this thread I hope by next weekend. Unless I can sneal out of work to mod

 

From another thread, you don't want to put the OTTRATTW switch on the lower row of the left side because you'll always be hitting it with your knee.
Good call on going with the center.

Panel under the dash is a bitch... pretty much everything has to come off including the stereo, cluster surround, etc...
If you can remove the console without taking that lower dash panel off, you could probably fish the wires through if you have skinny arms.

 

I am putting it in the center console. I have my interior LEDs switches there so it wont look too bad and there is real estate there that is easy to get to. Hookedontronics build thread also relayed issues with carling switches not fitting easily in that lower dash under the AC controls. I think it would be bad ass there, but others with more talent can do that.

I'll get some pics up after I get it in.

 

well, the 100 degree heat has lifted a little, headed to the driveway

 

Well success.

Thanks Anthony and Rich. Your time and talent has helped me immensely.

Since I put the OTRATTW switch on the center console, I used a tap to the transmission gear selector lights to get the dash light connection instead of the fog light switch. That was the only departure from the instructions I was given.

When I switched them on, two of the 3 lights lit up. Did not panic.....I just shut it down, went to the 3 lights and checked the connections. The middle of the three was bad. Re-connected and crimped and I am good to go.

YAH!!!!!!!



**edit, although the pics i took are not loading right, grrr...back out to the heat for pics. maybe i'll wait until nightfall for more pics

 

Okay, just when I think I got a grasp on things I come across something else that confuses me...like the diagrams below:





Wouldn't wiring it this way make the switch's lower light illuminate whenever the truck's lights are on, and make the switch's upper light illuminate whenever the switch is turned on (when the HIDs are turned on)? And isn't that the complete opposite of what the OTRATTW switch's are suppose to do?





.

 

Yes, that is how i designed the diagram... I have never personally used or wired a OTRATTW switch for myself, so i designed the first diagram based off the information I got from OTRATTW website (second picture). I thought thats how it was supposed to be wired?? If this is opposite then switch the wires, but according to the second diagram, this is the way I thought it should be.

 

I wanted the name of the accessory to be lit and when turned to illuminate the biohazard sign, just like proforce explained. It could go the other way if someone wanted to do that.

 

Well I think the confusion is on my part. I read/saw tango's switch and thought it was just like mine; it is not. My OTRATTW switch illuminates the top half (text AND icon) when in the off position; a red indicator bar on the lower half is illuminated when the switch it in the on position. It is wired exactly like Rich described earlier in the thread. I would post a picture of the wiring diagram but I think you understand how it's wired, plus I don't want to post something that would only complicate yours & Rich's excellent writeup & diagram.

Nice. It looks really good. As soon as I get mine installed and wired up I'll post a few pictures of mine, give me a day or two.

 

I tried to take pics of the lights on, but my phone is jacked up and I'll have to re-take the pics and re-post

 

Would this setup work for two 100 watt halogen lights. The 7" ones from automatcentral?

 

Absolutely.
One 30a relay can handle two 100w lamps. Your continuous draw would be about 17a, so you'd be okay with running #10 wire and a 24a fuse.

 

Rich, you continue to rule

 

Interesting that there actually is a difference between the switches.

I assume one is the type with the large square indicator and "bumps" on the rocker and the other is the more rounded switch?

 

day time pic and night time pic

 

Killer!