Input on my AR build

+1 on the PWS brake.

Playing around with my cheapo Simmons at 100 yards (I know ), at max zoom (10x), running XM193, that brake is so effective that the target did not leave the FOV between shots.

There is one down side.
The PWS 556 is FUCKING LOUDER THAN THE SPACE SHUTTLE!!!
People at the bench next to you will hate you.

I would suggest sticking with the mil-spec buffer tube simply because there are more options. Many manufacturers do not make commercial spec buttstocks.

 

I would suggest not buying from Tom @ Spikes either. Support non shady businesses.

 

Watch lighter hammer springs with hard primers. They are the cause of lots of headaches.

The lightest trigger pull you'll ever get that will still reliably fire military primers is the Timney..

 

Just got back from Long Beach last night for my sisters wedding so I haven't been on in a few days.

So here's some quick pics of the barrel.





Josh - I went with the 16" barrel. I looked into the forearm you recommended. Any reason you suggested that one over this one?

https://www.primaryarms.com/Midwest_Industries_TSeries_Length_9Inch_Fre_p/mi-t9.htm

It's .6oz lighter than the SS one.

EDIT - I see what you're saying about eliminating the side and bottom rails. But I'd like the option of being able to mount something on the side if I needed it.

If a sixer was all it took for a trigger job I may need to drive up there with some cases and have you help me put my rifle together whenever it's all done.

I think I'll definitely get a different kind of trigger than whatever is included in the parts kit; or just get one without the trigger group.

Like I said before, no rush on this build and I might as well put some quality shit on it.

Thanks for the continuing input!

 

before you go spending money on something that you dont know if you "need" yet. I would highly recomend using what you have first, send a few hundred rounds downrange and go from there.

EDIT: also if your not in a hurry, I got my Troy rails at 30% off during their black friday sale.

 

^^^ Build your first one with a USGI trigger, then dip your toes into upgrade triggers after you fly enough lead to make an informed decision.

 

I don't know which handguards you folks were discussing, but it sure sounds like you're talking the difference between the MI SS and T-Series rail. I've built with both, and the T-series aren't lighter than the SS series at the same length. Still, the T-series is pretty light. The SS-series has a poorly designed anti-rotation screw, and it strips out all the time. Still, it's not really needed if you torque the jam nut and use loctite. Also, the SS holes aren't chamfered and can rub your hands raw pretty quick. A T-series with rubber ladder covers will be bulkier, but more comfortable.

 

That's why I like my Troy TRX BattleRails.
Solid top rail, but the sides and bottom are clean.
You can mount short segments to the sides and bottom to mount accessories or leave it clean.
I stacked two rail segments on the bottom of my camo 14.5 to mount the Magpul AFG.
I have a longer one (it's actually the Viking line, still made by Troy) on my AR22.

 

X2

I have the troy TRX and I really like them

 

I use the Vtac Troy rails on all my new builds. They prevent "Christmas Tree Rifle Syndrome"

 

LOL!

Indeed.
I don't care if you have a total of 48" of rail space....

An AR15 is NOT a Barbie for a man.

 

People tend to think they are a Lego kit though. haha
I cant stand seeing gobs of shit stuck to peoples rails...

 

This is listed at 11.7oz...

https://www.primaryarms.com/Midwest_Industries_TSeries_Length_9Inch_Fre_p/mi-t9.htm

and this one is listed at 11.8 oz which includes the 2.6 ounces of attachable side rails...

http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=268

I checked out the Troy vtac VTX you guys brought up but it says it can only be used with a barrel mounted site which I don't have but I dont see why it would require it when there isn't a cutout for the sight in the rail. I was just planning on mounting a flip up sight on the rail.

https://www.primaryarms.com/Troy_Industries_VTAC_Rail_TRX_Extreme_by_TROY_p/strx-eli-c8bv-00.htm

Sooo many choices out there.

I want to keep it lightweight, free float, smooth, and have the option to mount a light down the road.

 

I think you're reading that wrong. The troy rails need a low profile gas block if you want to run the rail over the block... e.g. a 9" rail covers a carbine gas system.

 

Troy TRX extreme rails

 

So stupid question...

If I wanted the rail to cover the low profile gas block that is already on my mid length 16" barrel, I would need to get the ten inch rail?

If the answer is yes, then the Midwest SS would work for me right? And at $110 shipped I should jump on it?

https://www.primaryarms.com/Midwest_Industries_SSSeries_10_Inch_Rail_BL_p/mi-ss10.htm

 

Not to be a negative nancy, but when I was checking out this MI lightweight rail, I noticed the rail could be torqued with not much force.
I would not trust my iron sight zero on a rail that could move when pressed against a barricade hard enough.
My troy VTAC and TRX have never flexed.

NVM: it was the MI SS gen2 I was handling. Not the one in your link

 

Cool, if it was the one you were talking about I probably wouldn't consider it.

I took some pictures to help with my previous question...







So if i get a 9" rail it wont cover the low profile gas block? But this 10" MI SS will right or does the mounting hardware make the 9" cover it?

https://www.primaryarms.com/Midwest_Industries_SSSeries_10_Inch_Rail_BL_p/mi-ss10.htm

 

On a middy get a 11" or longer rail.