Synthetic oil

also my oil fill cap is embossed w/ 5W30

 

Hi all.

The 1GR-FE (V6) comes from the factory with 5w-30 conventional. Only the 2TR-FE (I) has the 0w-20 synthetic from the factory. I determined from my owners manual my V6 had conventional. My dealer showed me the oil application chart Rich has above and they told me it is incorrect for the 1GR-FE.

My 1GR will be getting Mobil 1 5w-30 for its first oil change at 1600 km (after break-in) and every change after that.

Cheers
Ray.

 

Interesting... but regardless, 10w30 Hiker pointed out has not been a manufacturer's recommended weight since the 80s.

And Hiker... The topic the OP was interested in was "which synthetic" we use... not "do we" use synthetic and if not, why not.

There are a couple of hundred other threads for that

 

glad I'm not going crazy

although it wouldn't have hurt my feelings if the v6 came w/ 0W20 syn and that's what they wanted in it

 

LOL!

No reason not to use it if you'd prefer, especially winter in Montana.
Personally, whether it's specified or not, I'm not comfortable with it in Southern California where we can hit 120 and hold over 100 for weeks.

I will not go lighter than 5w30 in any vehicle. Might cost me a bit on MPG, but I feel better about it. 10 years from now? I might feel better about the 20wt products.

 

I've used Amsoil for many years now and will use it in my new Taco also. It isn't easy to find but the website ships from your nearest dealer. So it never takes long to get hold of it.
I order a couple of gallons at a time saves being out when you need it.

 

It appears to be several contradictions. I recently had a conversation with friend/shop foreman of a Toyota dealership. This dealership also offers "free oil changes for life". All the 2011 and 2012 Toyota Tacomas "require synthetic oil". The owners manual states it should be changed at 5,000 miles. But the dealerships is only "offering the free synthetic oil changes at 10,000 miles." In essence the owner's manual says one thing but the Toyota dealership says another. However, this dealership also guarantees your engine for life provided all your routine maintenance is follow per your owners manual and at their dealership???? Hmmmm.

 

my 2012 manual doesn't state that it "requires synthetic oil"- it does want you to use syn, specifically 0W20, in the 4 cylinder, but for the 6 cylinder no mention whatsoever of syn, simply 5W30

 

Sounds like this dealer is writing their own extended warranties and writing the cost into the sales price of the vehicle.
I hope that this "lifetime guarantee" is in writing.

Toyota's warranty on everything but emissions components is the standard 3/36.
Anything within 3/36 can NOT be legally voided for use of non OEM parts or non-dealer service under Magnusson Moss (in the US, our friends in other countries are at the mercy of their controlling laws) unless those parts/service can be proven to be the cause of the failure.

But... Magnusson Moss does not apply to extended "warranties", which are more correctly referred to as "Service Contracts"
Under an extended warranty, you are 100% at the mercy of the contract.
I ended up getting stuck with one from Crown Toyota in Ontario that literally required ALL service to be performed at this little independent shop in Santa Fe Springs.
As soon as I finished reading all of the "f-you" fine print, I went straight back to the dealer and refunded the warranty, as I was going to void it within 2000 miles.

 

This sounds like my argument I would have with my Service Rep when I would mention that I came in for another service and not an Oil change because I put $11/qt Syn Oil in my car so can't see changing it every 5000 miles. But could they reset the Service light for me. I had a 2009 Corolla XRS.
Makes sense but the disparity in the Owners manual doesn't. Hope with enough mention to Toyota Corp they will put out a Service Bulletin to the adjust effect; so we will have that in writing.
I'm on my way to bring it to their attention and I hope they answer in writing.
Part of the solution I hope.

Thanks DixieDog for the heads up.

 

You're paying almost double what you should be paying.

Costco is $36 for 6 quarts.... $26 when they have it on sale.

You don't need the dealer for that. It takes about 30 seconds, the procedure is in your owner's manual, but if the Corolla is the same as my wife's '04 Rav4 and my '08 Taco, set the odometer to ODO (not a trip setting).
Shut the key off
Press and hold the ODO button.
Turn the key on (don't start the engine).
Watch the display... it will either come up all "0" and change to all "-" or the other way 'round.
When it's done doing it's little dance, release the button and shut the key off. When you restart, the service light should be gone.

 

Thanks Rich appreciate that info and will do.

Glen

 

I had the first oil change done on my 2012 V6 and there was conflicting information on what to use from multiple sources (but there's no question to use synthetic oil):

• The oil cap says use 5w30
• The manual says use 5W20
• The local dealership says to use 0w20
• Another dealership in a larger city says 5w30 is crossed out on their chart and 5w20 is written in by hand
• The local Jiffy Lube's computer system says to use 5w30
• Another indépendant oil change company says 5w30
• The Toyota PDF posted by Rich91710 (above) says to use 0w20

So I called the shop foreman at yet *another* Toyota dealership that I fully trust. He took the time to look it up thoroughly on his end and finally said it was definitely 5w30. He then asked his Master Tech what he would do (I could hear this over the phone in the background) and the tech responded with 5w30.

I stumbled onto to all this while my truck was sitting there at Jiffy Lube with all it's oil drained (I went in with the belief that I needed 5w20 like the owner's manual said...what was on the cap was a big surprise). Based on the totality of the information I was able to glean from these multiple sources, along with what the person I trusted most said (and with what's stamped on the cap) I had it filled with 5w30 synthetic.

Can anybody here shed more light on this please? I'm not left feeling 100% confident...and will get a free oil change after 5000 miles at Toyota (I'm at 4600 and will probably go in at 7500 or so).

Comments on this (surprising!) disparity appreciated (manual says one thing, cap another); I want to use the best possible oil for my truck and plan on having it for 250,000 miles or 25 years. Thanks in advance.

 

Jiffy Lube?

That's a Fram-manufactured filter (Pennzoil owns Jiffy Lube, Frame makes Pennzoil oil filters).


On the oil, if you are running a quality synthetic, especially in California, the difference between 0w20, 5w20, and 5w30 is going to be a moderate barely measurable difference in fuel economy (which is the main reason that most new vehicles are going to the 0w20 and 5w20 weights).
5w30 will provide better protection in warmer weather.
0w20 is going to provide better protection on cold startups, 5w20 will be comparable to 5w30, BUT, a quality synthetic 5w30 is just fine at providing this protection.

Oversimplified....
If the debate is between 0w20 and 5wXX, the difference is cold startup protection.
If the debate is between 5w20 and 5w30, the difference is hot weather protection.

 

Excellent info! And yes, I want protection for extreme heat in the Utah desert but most of time it's on the temperate California coast. Cold starts are a non-issue (no snow/freezes here).

Yeah, I forgot about the non-Toyota filter and was eyeing it this evening with some disappointment. I don't do my own servicing, but maybe that's a reason to go to Toyota now for oil changes (or maybe buy the filter and go elsewhere...presumably I can provide the filter). Took my old 4Runner to Jiffy Lube for a long time for the super-fast/good service I get locally and never had a problem.

The trusted shop foreman I mentioned above suggested on the phone today that Pennzoil is not the best choice for Toyotas (and mentioned using Toyota filters and Mobil 1 or Castrol)...between that and the aftermarket filter should I really consider doing the freebie service at Toyota at 5000 miles, or wait until 7500 as planned (and use 5w30 as noted above)?

Surprisingly complicated first oil change...

 

It's not so much the non-Toyota filter... that's not a problem, it's that it's a Fram.
Cardboard endplates, leaking bypass valve, low filtration area... it's a perfect example of cost cutting on a product where the consumer can't see where they were cut.

AC Delco, STP, Supertech, and other filters manufactured on the "E-Core" pattern by Champion Labs are similarly crap filters.

 

Hmmmm...okay. But the crap filter should be good for 2500 miles on a brand new truck I'd think. I'm not thrilled about having it (it simply hadn't occurred to me since I'm in the habit of doing oil changes there) but unless there's a compelling reason, I'll chalk this up to a learning experience and have Toyota do it right (for free) not too far down the road.

 

Interesting to see filters taken apart here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsQ2LbHGSy0&feature=related

 

How many miles are you putting on your full synthetic before changing it out? Im using the Mobil 1 High Mileage

 

Nothing really wrong with going 5,000 miles on full syn. The oil may be able to last longer but 5k is about the max for filters. This is obviously a debatable issue, but if you stick with 5,000 and keep an eye on the dipstick, you'll be set.