45acp’s DIVORCED build!

Haha thanks, definitely a work in progress.

Did a body mount chop today. Don't know of anyone who has done it to a 1st gen. I didn't like how close the tires sat. The alignment shop said it would be an extra $90 to move the caster farther forward rather than simply being in spec. F that! I'll use some scrap 1/8", thank you.





Welds look like shit on top because at the same time I was welding, I was trying to keep the rubber gasket on top from burning too much.

 

Hows it look with the tire back on??

 

haha Nice, Jon!!!

 

Jon, badlands July 21st and 22nd. We leave Friday night, wheel all day saturday, then drive home sunday! You down?

 

I'm in as long as the truck isn't in the middle of getting the 5.29s installed

 

Front locker? Re-gearing is the perfect time to install a locker since you have everything apart anyway...

 

They better not be! You will miss out on one hell of a ride!

 

Best build thread name ever. I have been following you build for a while now but never subbed for some reason. Truck looks great man. Sorry I must have missed it but what tire size are you running now?

 

35x12.5x15 or 16

 

I'd love to but the money isn't there yet. I know it'll cost me more in the long run but there's no way in hell I'm going to wheel in CO/WY with these gears I have now.

I'll try and get them installed next week then!

15" wheels

 

Ya and if he skips out on Wy....Ima gonna hurt him haha

 

Gonna order up the 5.29s on monday. Sold my welder today for $50 more than what I paid for it.

 

What brand gears?

 

Some cryoed Yukons

 

Nice. Just curious but what lead you to getting Yukons instead of another brand?

 

That's what the guy recommended.

Haven't ordered them yet so if anyone has a better suggestion, let me know.

 

from what i hear, yukon uses other manufacturer parts and just repackages them so you don't really know what you're getting...nitro are usually the safer bet, but are hard to get due to the popularity...most yukons are a solid choice though..ecgs suggested yukons to me too due to the long wait on nitros and i haven't had issues yet :knockonwood:

 

Niiice.... You're going to get the solid collar for the pinion, right?!?!?!?!?

 

Uhhh yeah sure... sounds good... what's that?

 

Basically..... A solid collar will keep the strength of the gear set intact a lot longer.

It's kinda hard to explain without actually looking at it, but the preload of the carrier and pinion determines the pressure put on the bearings which determines how easily they can rotate on the bearings in the races (bearing cups). For every diff, there are different specs on how tight the preloads should be. (kinda like torque specs...) I think it's 14-19 in/lbs of rotational torque for the pinion on an Toyota 8" E-locker diff. If the preload is to little, the gear set will be greatly weakened, because the ring and pinion teeth will be able to deflect, or flex easier, causing the teeth to skip and break... if the preload is too high, the bearings will quickly wear out. The way that the pinion preload is typically acquired is with a crush sleeve. The crush sleeve is basically a big washer that goes between the bearings. When the gear set is assembled, you just tighten the large pinion nut (which crushes the crush sleeve) until the desired amount of preload is reached.

A solid collar replaces the crush sleeve. In order to achieve the desired pinion preload, you have to use shims to increase or decrease the size of the gap between bearings. This is a bit more tedious to install (since it can take several try's before getting the right amount of shims. It took me well over 5 tries on my rear install... lol), but since it doesn't crush like a crush sleeve, it doesn't wear out over time. A regular old crush sleeve has the tendency to wear out and make the gear set a bit weaker as time goes on.

I'd include pictures (as it would be a lot easier to understand) but I'm typing from a Mac of which I barely now how to use it!!! hahaha but you get the idea...?