Dynamat Poll, yes or no? If so how much?

Ok, I'm l starting my complete system install soon and wanted to get the feel for what all you "pros" have to say on the topic.

Grand Total for my system is gonna run me about $1400, that includes HU, 2x6.5 Components in the front and 2x6.5 Coaxels in the back. Stage II will be an amp and sub/box.

I'm not looking to win competitions with this system.

I've done some price checking and even talked to a stereo installer yesterday and here is what I'm finding.

1. It's expensive, esp if you do the entire truck, firewall, doors, floor and rear bed wall. For what it's gonna cost, do I really need to do it? Am I really gonna notice it that much? With what I'm putting in my truck now, is it gonna take it from a Decent sounding system to crap if I don't? When i asked the "installer" about it he told me that unless I planned on trying to win competitions he wouldn't do anything more than maybe the doors. He told me it can be very tricky to install, very difficult to do unless you used heat and even then if you weren’t experienced in doing it, it could become a major disaster.

So...what do you think?

 

First off; your installer isn't experienced with newer products or is just trying to get your to pay him to do it.

Secondly, unless you want to pay too much, use something other than dynamat.

 

What other something other than dynamat? Fatmat?

 

google it. There are several other options. raammatt is probably best bang for the buck.

 

RAAMmat, TW users get discounts. I'm installing a bunch of it in my truck this weekend.

 

Try fatmat. Same thing as dynomat. Hell of a lot cheaper.

 

$1.00 per sq foot. Better than nothing?

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]eDead 45 Specifications [/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]eDead Type[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]eDead v.2 Mat[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Product Thickness[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]40-45 mils[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Heat Tolerance [/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Industrial[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Core Layer [/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Butyl[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]LiteWrap Backing[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Yes[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Self Adhesive[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Yes[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Heat Gun Required[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Application Temperature [/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]50+ DF[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Multiple Layer Capable[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Yes[/FONT]

 

I used Second Skin. Used Damplifier Pro (dampening material) and Luxury Liner Pro (deadening material). I did the back wall, floor and all four doors and have enough left over to do the roof and I spent around $700 (including shipping) for all of it. Did it myself. Took about 20 hours, but the damplifier is peel-n-stick. The luxury liner needs spray adhesive for vertical surfaces, but no heat gun was needed.

All the reviews I read said that, for what you pay, Second Skin's products are better and cheaper than Dynamat.

I haven't used RAAMMat, but I've heard good things. Their sound barrier material isn't as thick as the Luxury Liner, but I think their dampening material is pretty good.

 

I'm pro raammat. Very good product and a great price and Rick is a hell of a guy. Very similar to Marv, IMO.

 

I can't afford this route. I'm looking at MAYBE 200.00 total.

 

You're not going to do the whole inside of your truck using Dynamat for $200.... You might get the back wall and a couple of doors...

RAAMMat is definitely a more budget-friendly product. And I know Marv recommends it. So, if Marv recommends it, you oughta know it's good!

 

I ordered 1 roll (15" x 50') RAAMmat
4 yards ensolite
2 cans spray adhesive

cost was about ~$167 (including shipping)

I've got a feeling I should have ordered another roll of the RAAMmat. But I won't finish the complete install right now becuase I don't have my rear speakers purchased for my system and I don't want to have to take off the rear door panel too many times.

What I'm doing this weekend is cleaning up all the wiring from head unit and amps. Securing the rack/sub box inplace. I hope to do the rear wall, 2 front doors and floor with what RAAMmat and ensolite with what I currently have. Then finish the rear doors and ceiling in a month or two.

I'll try to track down a camera so I can take pictures.

 

I plan on going the RAAMmat in the near future. For the price, and the coverage you get for that money is very good. I simply plan on doing a single layer over the entire cab. Not going to go too crazy with it.


FWIW...ANY sound deadening you do is beneficial. The difference in a totally deadened cab vs a stock one is huge. It only takes shutting the door to notice it. But like I said, any deadening you do will help. The more the better IMO though...

Its something you can add to as time/money become available. Do the doors first, then the floor/firewall, then back wall, then roof. .02

 

I used Raamat which is a great product and very easy to use. Your truck will be noticeable quieter.

 

40, but I am military. Been here since 2000

 

edit: nvm

 

I talked with Marv on this one. He said that installing sound deadening is vehicle-dependent on what you need to do. For our vehicles, he advised, it is fine to do the doors, then do the back wall with whatever is left over. He said that doing the floor and roof is pretty much for show only, and you really aren't going to get back what you paid to do those portions. With the back wall, he advised that the sound deadener can only do so much because 1/2 of the wall is the glass, which causes the majority of the problem - and there's nothing you can do with that!

Another big thing he warned me about was the thickness of the material in relation to the rest of the material fitting behind the seats. The box he made for me is very snug, and adding sound deadener may make it impossible to install the box again.


I need to get started on this as well, but it's been raining every day and I no longer have a garage since I moved in March. I need a friend with a garage