The 2.7L Single Cab Thread

I went for the used model with plastic tube so less heat soak & .000000000000000069 more hp per $...

 

Hmmmm, I might consider something like that since the main thing I thought might help was the straight shot to the TB instead of all twist and turns the oem does to get there. Wondering what role the plenum on the oem plays that sits over the valve cover. Also wondering if just removing the fender well deal woulda let enough fresh air in to make the temps same without the customizing of the tube. I do realize that no matter how you configure it the main result is noise and appearance under the hood. The extra noise does help keep the foot out of the gas when trying to save gas when not running torque app on the android.

 

Noise.

It's simply an intake muffler. EPA has moved past exhaust systems and is now addressing intake noise pollution.

 

My IAT was nearing 180F the past week. I capped off my deck plate mod and it definately likes the slightly cooler air coming from the fender.

 

Last weekend in Vegas for the daughter's wedding, OATs were around 105 and my IAT never went above 110 unless we were sitting in heavy traffic.

 

It was in heavy traffic with those temps. Once I got moving it was about 10 above the outside air. The engine felt happier when it was "cool"

 

Factory warranty is valid for the normal term for any owner.

Extended warranties are not "warranties"... they are service contracts and may or may not be transferable, but they are not automatically transferred at sale even if they are transferable.

 

Here's mine, not anywhere near pavement...

 

US customers are protected under Magnusson-Moss:

1 - Manufacturer can not require dealer service or use of OEM parts as a condition of maintaining the factory warranty, UNLESS said parts and labor are furnished at no charge.
Manufacturer may require that warranty service be performed by a specific party and may not be required to pay for warranty service provided by an unauthorized party.

2 - Manufacturer may not void the warranty wholesale due to the installation or use of aftermarket parts by the customer or a person that they hire, unless the manufacturer can prove that the 3rd-party parts and/or labor were the proximate cause of the failure.

3 - In any event, warranty can not be voided on unrelated systems.
The manufacturer can not refuse to honor a failure of the transmission because the owner has a K&N air filter.

4 - Manufacturer can not be held liable for warranty coverage on aftermarket parts and accessories.

NONE OF THE ABOVE APPLIES TO EXTENDED WARRANTIES OR SERVICE CONTRACTS.

If it is in the name of the previous owner, it is not a factory warranty.
They might call it a warranty, but it's not. It's basically an "extended warranty" which SHOULD be referred to "service contracts"
The factory warranty, and any dealer warranty on a used vehicle, is tied to the VIN and does not require any paper transfer to a new owner.

Ya... you were mislead and screwed. The extended warranties are generally transferable and that was not done.

 

East L.A. Arizona, A.K.A. Buckeye Far west side buddy.

 

Here's mine at wipeout hill on the 7-Mile Trail in Moab(the bypass I guess. It the trail on the left as your looking down the obstacle.)



Went down and back up.

 

Given the amount of flex in the engine mounts, that scares me.
I'd be worried about popping that intake off the throttle body at the wrong time (like on a rocky sandy wash), or even breaking the throttle body.

 

ahhhhh

Yeah what he said, and this is no different than the plastic shield with rubber gasket for the hood mounting wise.

 

What, he's auto. Im on 265/75/16 duratracs, stock gears Im good at 5th around 60-80 After 80 its 4th gear unless its cool out then the O2 rich air is good to my motor.

 

His truck is that random freak of nature, dont fret I only hit 95 in forth as well.... she reads about 10 under at that speed.

Mine only reads 3 from 0-40, 6 from 40-70, and 8 70-85.

 

Doesn work, double cabs and extra cabs have different door panels. The lock will work but that is a whole module change. New they are 300ish a piece at dealer cost. Already looked into it. However you would have to do custom switched for the windows and then I dont even know if the regulator will work since the door panels are different.

 

Very long shot, door panels dont fit which means the doors themselves are different sizes

 

There are aftermarket locks and window kits.
I've got an aftermarket lock kit that I haven't had a chance to install.

I bought the dash switches, but in looking at the operation, it's really not needed. It's a central" system so locking or unlocking either door will lock or unlock the other, manually locking included, and the way the Taco door is designed, if you pull the door handle, it will unlock the door, so there really is no need for interior switches... just operate the regular door lock lever and it does the same as a switch.

The power window kits are a bit more of a kludge with fitting switches and stuff. The hole in the door for the crank is covered by a plug.

 

Screw that, I love the convenience of being able to roll down or up without the ignition being on!