The Tacoma Towing Bible

You are correct in that the V6 models are slightly heavier with less payload capacity. That alone means that they are heavier and better able to handle trailer sway from a heavier load in stock/unloaded form.

Also consider this. The 5 luggers are 15" wheels while the V6 models are 16" (off road) and 17" (sport) wheels. Bigger wheels means they can stuff bigger brakes in there. Combine that with a bigger engine for more engine braking along with the power and you have the ability to control a heavier load than a 5 lugger.

Not to mention the suspension on the V6 models is different on both the front and rear. They are obviously designed around hauling up to 6500lbs while the 5 luggers are not. Plus, as Maverick mentioned, there's the whole bigger battery and alternator for trailer brakes, and oil/tranny coolers in the tow package to keep the engine and tranny from overheating with a heavier load. Just those parts combined with the hitch bump a non-tow package V6 from 5,000lbs to 6,500lbs tow capacity. You would want to add most of those parts to any truck you want to tow with just to ease wear and tear on the truck. Unfortunately you're better off buying the truck with the factory tow than trying to build it on your own unless you can get parts for a fraction of what Toyota wants for them. (Lotust on Toyotanation tried adding factory tow to his V6 on his own later and was up near $1500 with it only half complete.)

 

Guys, I'm talking 66% of the 2006 6cyl 6,500lb capacity, not 100%. You seem to be overlooking that. I'm not proposing to pull the same load as the 6cyl 2001 or the 6cyl 2006. Yes, they can pull a greater amount. Yes they have bigger brakes. Yes they have a bigger engine. Again, I'm talking less than 2/3rds of the 2006 6cyl load.

By the way, I would install a 5,000lb class III hitch. It's fully rated and designed specifically for the 2006 Tacoma frame. $550 Curt unit with digital brake control. Keep in mind that the factory "tow package" includes a tranny cooler for an automatic trans, and other elements (suspension, etc.) that get the tow capacity up to 6,500lbs, so of course its more expensive (and especially if it's Toyota). I have a manual trans so not relevant. I also have 5 speeds as opposed to my old 2001 6cyl automatic that had only 4, so more torque control range. And, again, please remember I'm proposing only 2/3rds the tow capacity of the 6cyl not 100%.

By the way, it gets better. The 4cyl reg cab has a payload capacity ON THE TRUCK ITSELF of 1,200lbs IN ADDITION to the 3,500lb tow capacity. They are independent of each other not inclusive. So, the 4cyl reg cab manual drivetrain as setup stock from the factory is rated to move a 4,700lb total cargo load including passengers. If I'm the only one in the truck @ 150lbs and add an additonal 50lbs for misc, the 4cyl truck is rated to pull an additional 4,500lbs OVER AND ABOVE ITS OWN EMPTY WEIGHT .

But, again, I'm only talking 4,000lbs, 500lbs less than what the drivetrain is rated to move as it sits stock. So, at least from a drivetrain standpoint, it is rated to pull more than I am proposing. And, of course, I would have a class III hitch (rated to 5,000 lbs) along with trailer brakes which will manage the braking of the trailer's weight (the trailer is actually rated for 6,000lbs GVWR including the required brakes for such and I am proposing a total of only 4,000lbs, or also 66% of its rated capacity).

So, given the data, doesn't it seem that the outstanding question is whether or not there is something about the 4cyl frame even with a class III hitch installed that for some reason it cannot withstand a tow load of a little less than 2/3rds that of the 6cyl frame, or 500 lbs more than what it is rated to pull from the bumper? I would seriously doubt it, and recall that both the 4cyl and 6cyl trucks share the same max tow capacity of 3,500lbs if no tow package (i.e., class III receiver hitch) is installed, leading one to believe that the 3,500lb tow capacity is a limitation of the bumper mount as opposed to the other elements in the total equation.

 

I guess it just sounded like you didn't see enough differences between the two trucks to justify the 3,000lb increase in towing you get from a V6 with tow package so I was just trying to point out some of the other factors.

I highly doubt Toyota rates the trucks to haul 1,200lbs in the bed of a 4 cyl in addition to the 3,500 lb trailer. I know *I* would not put 1,100lbs in the back of my DC and try to haul a 6,500lbs trailer. I have AAL's in the rear and was still only half an inch off the bump stops while towing a chevy lumina on an auto transport (under the 6,500 bls) with 4 tires in the bed (well under the 1,100lb bed capacity) and 2 adults in the cab. Without the AAL's I would have been on the bump stops for sure without the tires in the bed. While that doesn't stop me from towing it does affect performance of the truck.

What you want to do from the sounds of it is tow 500lbs more than the truck is rated for. I'm not saying it can't be done as I've probably pushed the 6,500lb capacity of *my* truck, but it's not something I'd want to do all the time. Sure it works, but it's not always pleasant. Using 3rd gear and 4,000+ RPMs to cliimb hills, downshifting to 1st to maintain 30 mph down steep hills, etc. On flats with a properly balanced load it's fine, but then I've also not had to take emergency maneuvers in the 4 times I've done it. So who knows what would happen in that overloaded state?

I have a manual too so the tranny cooler is moot, but the oil cooler is a must unless you want the engine to over heat and be damaged. Tranny coolers are cheap. It's the oil cooler that gets expensive! I think one of the Toyota components (according to Lotust's invoice) was around $500. (link here. Pics are gone, but if you're a member over there you might be able to PM him about the process. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t240841.html) And that's assuming you could even GET the right parts for the 4cyl. Toyota doesn't do a tow package for the 4cyl so you'd probably have to find something aftermarket and hope it works. I've heard about people doing it and then they leak or fail.

Anyway, you can probably do it. The real question is how often are you going to be doing this and is it going to cause the truck to wear out faster or cause an accident because it's not designed to do it.

*Oh, and FYI if we're comparing base model, 5spd 4cyls to the V6 with tow package there's a 1780lb difference in curb weght. That's enough to keep the truck planted and resist swaying from a heavier trailer than the 4cyl. Which is one big reason it's rated for more regardless of HP and torque. It simply won't get pushed around as much by a trailer over 3,500lbs.

 

Yo Maverick,
Got any good sites on how to setup a weight distribution hitch?
Anyone use helper springs along with the TSB?

Question - I've towed a Wrangler regularly with a couple different V8's. No WDH or helper springs or anything. We had a *sweet spot* on the trailer that the Wrangler would have to sit at for optimal controllability/tonque weight. When the jeep was off by 2" - you could feel it.

With a WDH - Is this sweet spot as critical? Or do you still need to find that sweet spot? Or.....do you set it up tonque heavy?

Does anyone know if Uhaul, Penske, etc rent WDH's to go along with their car haulers?
THanks!

 

I don't remember if UHaul rents the hitches or not. I remember looking at their auto transports and just trying to figure *IF* I could even attach a WDH to it. I want to say UHaul does not rent them, but some of them might.

 

U Haul trailers all use mechanical hydraulic surge brakes. The tongue needs to move in & out in order to apply the brakes. There is a master cylinder and when the trailer pushes forward from the tow vehicle slowing down that applies force to the master cylinder and applies the trailer brakes.
Few people have tried, but the trailer brake effectiveness went down so much it was useless.

 

Ask, and you shall receive,

I don't personally use any kind of a helper spring, but I think if I were to use something in that family I'd go with the Timbrens that Phantom recomends. They replace the bumpstops, and only engage when you need them so there is no affect on ride quality when you don't need them.

The sweet spot itself, is not as critical, which does not mean it is unimportant. What does become critical is replicating the same sweetspot every time you tow. If you own the trailer then you just bolt some wheel chocks to the floor, or otherwise mark the wheel position. If you are renting this is more problimatic.

Not to my knowledge, as it would require them to spend an hour or more setting up the wd hitch on the customer's vehicle, with their car hauler and the vehicle being towed, as well as spending time teaching the safe operation of a wd system, and having seen some of these outfits I just don't see that happening.

Any more questions just ask.

Regards

 

I used to mark the spot on the trailer I used to own. But since I'll be renting this time, I'm not all that concerned with marking it. I could take pictures and get a better idea if I ever rent that exact same type/size trailer in the future.

So - are you saying I should find the sweet spot FIRST before setting up a WDH?

 

A uhaul/budget/ryder trailer is heavy as hell anyway, so i'd opt for backing the jeep onto the trailer, and keeping as much of the jeep's weight centered over the trailer's axles as possible. Forget the WD hitch unless you own the trailer, as it may very well impede the ability of the surge brake system on the rental trailer from operating correctly.

however, if you can rent a regular car hauler, with standard electric brakes, instead of the surge brake system, then go-ahead with the WD system.

As long as the trailer is loaded more or less correctly, it will be fine. Then from there you set up the WD hitch, as the set up of the hitch will be different depending on how the trailer is loaded. that is why the repeatability of loading becomes the important part, if that makes sense?

 

I concur...



With the Jetta engine closer to the axles, we still were front heavy. That made for an unpleasant drive home.

 

This is really funny....

My husband and I used to own a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L V8. We towed with that thing for a few years including 2 trips down to Tellico (12 hour trip). The curb weight of the WJ - 4100 or something like that.
The GCVWR is 11,475lbs (or something like that). The tow rating is 6500lbs. We towed with that thing without a WDH or anything else and it did fine. A few white knuckle moments in the mountains going down to Tellico....and temps went up in the mountains too, but worked very well.

My 07 tacoma has the same tow rating (6500lbs), only like 70lbs lighter in curb weight, and a GCVWR of 11,100lbs.

I'm like - get the hell outta here? I didn't realize how close the two vehicles were in terms of ratings. And I've been somewhat concerned on how the truck will do....??

 

I'd like to thank maverick491 for this awesome post. I just recently towed a 18' 4 bike enclose trailer fully loaded from Chicago to Florida for some racing. If I didn't stumble across this thread I would have been in a world of hurt. The only complaint I have about the trip was the crappy gas millage. I was averaging about 9mpg. Other than that it was fine. FYI this is before I set up the WDH hitch and there was only 2 bikes in it at this point

 

Very good write-up, but I do have a question about adding an aftermarket transmission oil cooler. I was told by the Toyota Tech that the transmission in my 2007 Tacoma AT is a sealed unit and that it was designed to go 100,000 miles before changing. He said only the Toyota deal or someone with special tools can add fuild to the transmission. How did you add your aftermarket transmission cooler? Do you have write-up on this?

 

I am the second owner of an 06 DCSB with the TRD off road package. It has the six speed manual tranny. I assumed it had the towing package as it has the reciever hitch and the bumper mounted 7 pin plug/4 flat plug. After reading this thread I can only find reference to automatic transmission vehicles with the "towing package". There is no brake controller. Is this a factory setup or did the original owner add the hitch and plug?

 

Hard to tell. In my region, the North East, all TRD trucks came with the towing package, but since Toyota does things differently in different regions that may not always be the case. The factory bumper mounted plug was only a 7 round, so if you have one of the 7 round/4-flat combo plugs it was added aftermarket, but that may have just been a plug replacement, and does not prove that the truck does not have the factory tow package.

The easiest way I can think of for you to check is to look inside the fuse box under the hood. Relays and fuses in the circled locations in the fuse box under your hood will confirm a factory tow package equipped truck

 

Thanks Maverick!

 

If you go to your nearest toyota dealer service guy and give him the VIN number, he can go on the internet and tell you the list of options the Tacoma was shipped with, including the towing package, if any. My dealer accidently threw away the window price list on my Tacoma, so I had him run off the list to tell what all was there when the time came to sell the truck.

 

This week I finally got the chance to try out my Tacoma towing my car trailer with my 1966 Mustang convertible on it (I forgot to take a picture!). My previous truck was a 2001 Tundra, V8. My 2008 Tacoma has the V6 with the towing package and auto trans. First of all, I really love the transmission - being a 5 speed it is geared pretty well for towing. The combined weight of my trailer (7000 GVW with wood plank floor) and car is about 4000 pounds. The trailer has wheel brakes and a Prodigy brake controller as well as the weight distribution setup. I towed the Mustang about 75 miles round trip on mostly interstates and I was very impressed! 95% of the time I used 4th gear and occasionally manually shifted into 5th on a flat section of highway - the truck pulls well in 4th gear with not much difference between the Tundra. As far as stability goes, it is hard to tell the difference between the Tacoma and the Tundra and it WAS windy, too. After being hesitant in buying the Tacoma, this made me pretty happy.

 

I've never really found an answer to this question:

Does the the 6,500 lb weight limit assume the trailer had brakes? Or is it a case of 'the truck will handle 6500, but every it of extra braking is a good thing'?

 

Break requirements are different from state to state however there is not a single state that I know of that will allow you to pull a trailer weighing 6500# without some sort of brakes on the trailer. Most states are anything that weighs more than 2000# requires brakes. Some states require them for even less weight. Check your local Department of Motor Vehicles web site for towing laws in your area.