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Home Improvement Today?

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by Hotdog, Jul 28, 2008.

  1. Jul 10, 2012 at 9:39 AM
    #461
    wileyC

    wileyC Well-Known Member

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    yeah you'd probably want 5/8" or thicker tongue-groove on there... thicker the better - plywood is probably best... just make sure the joists are stout enough, or you may need to either choose different flooring, or firm up the joists...
     
  2. Jul 10, 2012 at 9:50 AM
    #462
    GeoTaco

    GeoTaco the town is back that way

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    looking under the house, all the joists look good. Should I tear out the current flooring, or plywood on top? forgive my ignorance, Im just getting into the home improvement thing.
     
  3. Jul 10, 2012 at 9:56 AM
    #463
    wileyC

    wileyC Well-Known Member

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    as for the joists, ...you might want to make note of the cross sectional dimensions (W, H), the unsupported span, L, and the spacing (16", 18", etc..?),. ...go to johnbridge, and use the deflecto calculator tool, ...it will give an estimate of the deflection (basically a beam deflection formula)... not sure what your subfloor is currently, ...wood plank? what size? it may be fine, but i'd take up the linoleum,...

    then there's these options:

    1) add additional layer of plywood 1/2" or thicker (more stiffness, and reduces deflection "between" joists), then add backerboard

    2) add backerboard if current subfloor is adequate

    3) new subfloor, and either 1 or 2 above...
     
  4. Jul 10, 2012 at 11:20 AM
    #464
    Evil Monkey

    Evil Monkey There's an evil monkey in my truck

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    Robert
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    This is what I did:
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/garage-workshop/12120-home-improvement-today-9.html#post4722194

    It's a floating tile (vinyl) that can go right over your existing floor. Each tile is 6" by 36" and they stick to each other. They look pretty good.
     
  5. Jul 10, 2012 at 12:55 PM
    #465
    nomad_archer

    nomad_archer Well-Known Member

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    I will say whatever you do skip the cement board underlayment and use schluter ditra its a little more expensive but it allows for some movement in the floor and is extremely easy to install.
     
  6. Jul 10, 2012 at 6:52 PM
    #466
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    " some " is the key word here
     
  7. Jul 10, 2012 at 6:56 PM
    #467
    nomad_archer

    nomad_archer Well-Known Member

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    "SOME" is most definately the key word. The subfloor needs to be solid end of story. By the way oz thanks for all the advice when I did my tile floor in the winter. Guess I should post the pictures of that.
     
  8. Jul 10, 2012 at 7:37 PM
    #468
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    :thumbsup:
     
  9. Jul 16, 2012 at 8:10 PM
    #469
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    Been doing some WRC board and batten siding over 1/2" rainscreen vented wall

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Danactive likes this.
  10. Jul 16, 2012 at 8:20 PM
    #470
    SOSHeloPilot

    SOSHeloPilot My 1st Muscle Car

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    .
    OZ-T Man ... that looks nice ... I like that design ... and the quality (fit & finish) looks good too ... :D
    .
     
  11. Jul 16, 2012 at 8:24 PM
    #471
    Larry

    Larry CARL

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    I agree

    Wide overhangs and the board & batten is a good looking architecture.

    I did board & batten on my last home on the lower level in Hardie. It is a good look.

    Nice clean work OZ...as usual :thumbsup:
     
  12. Jul 16, 2012 at 8:28 PM
    #472
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    Thanks fellas
     
  13. Jul 16, 2012 at 10:17 PM
    #473
    medic2230

    medic2230 @Koditten Pirate Radio member #002

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    Looks good OZ! I know who I'll call when I want a house built. I've seen some pretty awesome work you've done.
     
  14. Jul 16, 2012 at 10:30 PM
    #474
    wileyC

    wileyC Well-Known Member

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    why no soffit vents?
     
  15. Jul 16, 2012 at 11:58 PM
    #475
    wrxRome

    wrxRome Houston's Swamp Rat

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    comin along well oz
     
  16. Jul 17, 2012 at 6:37 AM
    #476
    Larry

    Larry CARL

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    gable roof...

    probably gonna cut in gable vents. they work better anyway. it's the one bitch to a hip roof design (which I love and most engineers in FL require), you get all of your attic ventilation from soffit to ridge, and the ridge is usually very minimum.

    Or, the OZ project may have a "closed" system with spray foam insulation on the roof structure, thereby eliminating attic ventilation all together. An awesome, but expensive system. I almost did this to the mew home Im building, but I went with the old school open system with soffit/ridge attic ventilation and insulated ceilings.
     
  17. Jul 17, 2012 at 7:20 AM
    #477
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    There is soffit vents

    There is a hidden continuous soffit vent detail , the vent is at the wall side , just above the siding

    You can make it out in this picture

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Jul 17, 2012 at 7:22 AM
    #478
    xJuice

    xJuice My spoon is too Big!

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  19. Jul 17, 2012 at 8:24 AM
    #479
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    I'm here now , here's a better pic of the soffit venting set up

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Jul 17, 2012 at 9:45 AM
    #480
    JaSkynyrd

    JaSkynyrd Ron F. Swanson

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    All we are looking at here is a wall and a soffit, but I am amazed by the craftsmanship. Well done.

    I cringe at the mass produced vinyl sided monstrosities that builders throw up down here in Tennessee. Throwaway houses.
     

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