Home Improvement Today?

yeah you'd probably want 5/8" or thicker tongue-groove on there... thicker the better - plywood is probably best... just make sure the joists are stout enough, or you may need to either choose different flooring, or firm up the joists...

 

looking under the house, all the joists look good. Should I tear out the current flooring, or plywood on top? forgive my ignorance, Im just getting into the home improvement thing.

 

as for the joists, ...you might want to make note of the cross sectional dimensions (W, H), the unsupported span, L, and the spacing (16", 18", etc..?),. ...go to johnbridge, and use the deflecto calculator tool, ...it will give an estimate of the deflection (basically a beam deflection formula)... not sure what your subfloor is currently, ...wood plank? what size? it may be fine, but i'd take up the linoleum,...

then there's these options:

1) add additional layer of plywood 1/2" or thicker (more stiffness, and reduces deflection "between" joists), then add backerboard

2) add backerboard if current subfloor is adequate

3) new subfloor, and either 1 or 2 above...

 

This is what I did:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/garage-workshop/12120-home-improvement-today-9.html#post4722194

It's a floating tile (vinyl) that can go right over your existing floor. Each tile is 6" by 36" and they stick to each other. They look pretty good.

 

I will say whatever you do skip the cement board underlayment and use schluter ditra its a little more expensive but it allows for some movement in the floor and is extremely easy to install.

 

" some " is the key word here

 

"SOME" is most definately the key word. The subfloor needs to be solid end of story. By the way oz thanks for all the advice when I did my tile floor in the winter. Guess I should post the pictures of that.

 

Been doing some WRC board and batten siding over 1/2" rainscreen vented wall

 

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OZ-T Man ... that looks nice ... I like that design ... and the quality (fit & finish) looks good too ...
.

 

I agree

Wide overhangs and the board & batten is a good looking architecture.

I did board & batten on my last home on the lower level in Hardie. It is a good look.

Nice clean work OZ...as usual

 

Thanks fellas

 

Looks good OZ! I know who I'll call when I want a house built. I've seen some pretty awesome work you've done.

 

why no soffit vents?

 

comin along well oz

 

gable roof...

probably gonna cut in gable vents. they work better anyway. it's the one bitch to a hip roof design (which I love and most engineers in FL require), you get all of your attic ventilation from soffit to ridge, and the ridge is usually very minimum.

Or, the OZ project may have a "closed" system with spray foam insulation on the roof structure, thereby eliminating attic ventilation all together. An awesome, but expensive system. I almost did this to the mew home Im building, but I went with the old school open system with soffit/ridge attic ventilation and insulated ceilings.

 

There is soffit vents

There is a hidden continuous soffit vent detail , the vent is at the wall side , just above the siding

You can make it out in this picture

 

Sneaky

 

I'm here now , here's a better pic of the soffit venting set up

 

All we are looking at here is a wall and a soffit, but I am amazed by the craftsmanship. Well done.

I cringe at the mass produced vinyl sided monstrosities that builders throw up down here in Tennessee. Throwaway houses.