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Misfiring issues

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by alboy, Mar 31, 2009.

  1. Mar 31, 2009 at 11:34 AM
    #1
    alboy

    alboy [OP] Member

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    i started my truck this morning and had a bad misfire, would not idle and running rough. changed out plug wires and changed out plugs with some spares i had lying around. started up perfect and ran great for a while. then the problem came back with in half an hour. my buddy thinks it might be a coil. but ive been having ground issues too, could that be a problem aswell
     
  2. Mar 31, 2009 at 12:35 PM
    #2
    abbaschild

    abbaschild Member

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    Sounds like one of your igniter coils is croaking after it heats up. As I remember, they ground thru the mounting bolt.
     
  3. Mar 31, 2009 at 5:14 PM
    #3
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    if it only happens at Idle, you may want to check your vaccume lines too.
     
  4. Mar 31, 2009 at 5:32 PM
    #4
    Blackened Taco

    Blackened Taco Well-Known Member

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    Is your check engine light on? It should trip a check engine light if it is a misfire. Also does it stumble on initial start off or on a reacceleration? Could also be a MAF and sometimes they won't trip a check engine light the little bastards can be sneaky. If you don't have a check engine light and you have the ability to have someone scantool it for you, there may be a pending misfire code, if the information is there you want to see if it is a P0300 or an 0300, that is a random misfire code, if that is there then you will also wanna see if there is a P0301, or 302, 303 or 304. Those numbers will be cylinder specific. If you see a P0171 or 0171 that would be a lean code relating directly to the MAF. If that information is not there. Then you most likely don't have a misfire persay, but could still have a stumbling issue. Try cleaning off your MAF but you have to be really gentle, take it out and see if there is any build up or debris on the wires. Be really gentle because they are really fragile. Those would be 2 of the first places to look for your issue. From there just like Chris said start checking vacuum lines especially around the airbox. I hope this helps you man, what kinda shape were the plugs in and what type of plug did you put in there BTW?
     
  5. Mar 31, 2009 at 9:08 PM
    #5
    2toys

    2toys Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for these pointers. I popped a 300 & 301 last week and a 300 again today. Running a little rough too. I'll check it out tomorrow and maybe swap a coil pack and see if it follows.
     
  6. Apr 1, 2009 at 5:45 PM
    #6
    Blackened Taco

    Blackened Taco Well-Known Member

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    Pull your coil pack on cylinder one and look down towards the end of the pack, they usually split, break etc. between the top and bottom on the stem that goes to the plug. Doesn't have to be a big split either for it arc off of the valve cover. Then do as you said if you don't see any damge then swap it with another, it will probably follow that coil pack.
     
  7. Apr 2, 2009 at 10:51 PM
    #7
    2toys

    2toys Well-Known Member

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    Pulled the coil pack and swapped front and back (1 & 4, I think), both looked fine except for a bit of color fading on the shaft area. But this evening I popped another p0301. So looks like I'll have to pull the plugs. Maybe I'll drop of bottle of seafoam in the gas first... What plugs does the 2.7 take Denso or NGK or both? gap?

    (I don't have much history on this vehicle as I just purchased last month. It has 125k on it, but appears to have been well cared for.)

    TIA
     
  8. Apr 3, 2009 at 4:44 AM
    #8
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Use the OEM Denso's and gap them at .040
     
  9. Apr 6, 2009 at 4:42 PM
    #9
    2toys

    2toys Well-Known Member

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    I just received my Densos (k16r-u11 from partsgeek.com <$12 to my door). I was expecting a double electrode, but to my surprise only one. Also I pulled the #1 plug yesterday and it was an NGK with a needle point center electrode (didn't get part #). The Densos, look much more 'standard' to what I'm used to. Now I have to wait until tomorrow to install these dudes, can't wait...
     
  10. Apr 6, 2009 at 5:02 PM
    #10
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    The 2.7 uses the single electrode plugs. Only the 3.4 uses the dual...:eek:
     
  11. Apr 7, 2009 at 7:42 PM
    #11
    2toys

    2toys Well-Known Member

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    Installed the plugs. Old plugs (NGK #BKR5EGP) look "normal" but worn. Truck starts quicker and runs smoother, also is much more responsive. Great!

    Now the bad, after about 15 miles. I again threw a p0301. So now what am I left to check?
     
  12. Apr 7, 2009 at 7:44 PM
    #12
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    Faulty spark plug or wire
    Faulty coil (pack)
    Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
    Faulty fuel injector
    Burned exhaust valve
    Faulty catalytic converter(s)
    Running out of fuel
    Poor compression
    Defective computer
     
  13. Apr 7, 2009 at 7:45 PM
    #13
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    :confused:
     
  14. Apr 7, 2009 at 7:46 PM
    #14
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    LMAO!

    Fixed :)
     
  15. Apr 7, 2009 at 7:56 PM
    #15
    2toys

    2toys Well-Known Member

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    Is there an easy way to swap around Fuel Injectors to isolate? I've got 125K, should the o2's be replaced all around? how many are there???
     
  16. Apr 7, 2009 at 8:00 PM
    #16
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    You have 1 front O2 and 1 rear O2. You cant swap them. Injectors can be swapped pretty easilly.
     
  17. Apr 7, 2009 at 8:20 PM
    #17
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    You have a new set of plugs, so check the wires. You run the truck at night with no lights on and watch and listen for a short. I bet you have bad wires. Start with the simple stuff and work your way down.
     
  18. Apr 7, 2009 at 8:29 PM
    #18
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    X2
     
  19. Apr 17, 2009 at 4:09 PM
    #19
    2toys

    2toys Well-Known Member

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    Still popping 300 & 301's almost daily now. I've been running fuel injector cleaner for about half a tank. After checking the wires and finding nothing, I took it to the corner mechanic who was a Toyota dealer mechanic for like 20 years. I had him do a compression test. Found 120lbs on #1, the rest were 180. Said he added some oil and re-tested and it come up to 130.

    His gut tells him that it's carbon buildup. Says these engines are prone to carbon with cheap gas and oil. He sprayed some cleaner into the intake just before the engine (there is a rubber plug he pulled). However he also gave me a worse case estimate to replace a bad valve (like 12 hours labor - all data)

    Any thoughts on this problem? Carbon? or valve?
     
  20. Apr 19, 2009 at 7:24 AM
    #20
    J-Byrd

    J-Byrd Member

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    AEM Intake Rhino liner-bed Gaylord’s Tonneau Cover NGK plug wires
    How many miles are on your truck? It sounds like it's a "Spark" issue. So I would try changing the plug wires. I recently replaced mine with NGK's and it was cheap and easy. When you first changed the plugs the problem went away, and then came back. So I really think your wires are bad, causing faulting firing and idle...If this doesn't work then it is probably an O2 or related sensor.

    Also, I had some similiar idle issues a few years back. The first time it was due to my O2 sensor on my intake fouling because of the oil in the AEM filter. O2 sensor was cleaned and I switched to a Dry-Flow. Another time I was driving from work and it felt like I was driving while pressing the break and the check engine light would occasionally come on. It ended up being a Throttle Body sensor along with a Gas Peddle/relay Sensor, which was an expensive fix.
     

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