Engine Break-in

Put it this way, if it mattered it would be a clause in the warranty.

BMW does this on some vehicles and WILL verify. If it was of concern it would be stated in the warranty.

 

?!?!?!?
Power shifting?
I have been driving stick since I was 11, and I am not sure how you could get my only using the clutch in 1st gear. I've heard of people power shifting without the clutch, but I would rather blow a clutch then a tranny. I'm also surprised no one else caught this by the end of the first page!

 

I took it easy on my truck for the first 1000. I think I had a total of 1-2 'sudden accelerations', one during the actual test drive and another time out of impulse. Otherwise, I slowly varied the RPMs through the entire range. Around 5000-6000 miles was when I noticed that the engine wasn't requiring as much of a footmash to the pedal to get the thing moving more than adaquately.

I don't think the issue with the engine, I think its with gradually breaking-in the rear differential and other drivetrain components to ensure the gearing all properly mates together.

 

You can shift most any synchronized manual transmission without a clutch by lifting your foot off the gas and then gently moving the gear shift lever to neutral, then putting gentle pressure on the stick in the direction of the next gear until it pops in. It's not hard, give it a try sometime.

But that's not power shifting. Power shifting is when you don't lift your foot off the floor when you shift, but you do briefly push in the clutch when you move the shifter.

 

Is there any adverse effects on the tranny? I will have to try. I have popped it out of gear that way, but never back in another.

 

Not really unless you "Force" it in instead of allowing it to slide into gear. If it grinds your doing it wrong. Just be gentle as you learn.

 

I have seen Toyota engines not broken in properly burn oil. This is because the rings never have enough pressure built up to seat them properly before the rings/cylinder wall glazes over. Best break in procedure in my opinion is, let the engine warm up with some normal driving, then drive it hard. Dont rev the s%*t out of the engine or anything, just make sure you put a good amount of load on the engine, and vary the speed. Using the engine as a break (easier to do with a manual) also helps break in the lower ring. Tow a trailer around for a couple days or something. Remember that there are many other engine components getting broken in, so dont do anything to extreme.

My uncle had a 01 Toyota tundra in Florida that never was driven hard during break in (owned it since new). Having no hills to climb over didn't help, but the engine burned oil for about 30,000 miles. Finally he mentioned it to a Toyota mechanic during an oil change. The mechanic put a really light oil (totally forget what oil it was, pretty sure it was some sort of mineral oil) and told him hook up his big ass boat and tow it to key west doing 70. After he got back from his trip (about 300 miles round trip) they changed the oil again and we have never burned a drop of oil since.

 

Sorry but a "BRAND NEW" truck burning oil?? I would be asking for a new truck.

 

Not sure this has been covered but you're not only "breaking-in" the engine you're also "breaking-in" the rest of the powertrain -- including differentials.

 

They used to say that years ago but it is a suitable break in oil, my brothers new Canadian made Chevy has Mobil 1 in it...ya know the company the US taxpayer bailed out so the union could own

 

I went easy on mine, didn't go over 3k on the tach until the first oil change interval at 3,000 miles. Now even I rarely break over 3500 on the tach, only when I am towing because the RPMs need to be high to shift with a heavy load.

 

I wouldn't recommend shifting without using the clutch. It's a good way to chip gear teeth if you happen to get it wrong and apply power as the gear teeth are engaging and also hard on synchro rings. Your choice and your results may vary. I've torn up my share of transmissions with youthful zeal and stupidity. Besides the cost you've got the down time loss of use of vehicle. If you're not interestedin using the clutch and transmsion properly you should have gotten the auto. I personally take some personal sastisfaction in the craft of driving and shifting smoothly.

 

I drove a 5 speed 1996 Honda Accord like this for over 3 years without a problem. Commercial truck drivers do it all the time and prefer to do it because it reduces wear on the clutch.

Only thing I noticed driving that way is it makes you be more aware of your vehicle speed in relation to your engine speed and it doesn't allow for you to drive as efficiently as possible. By this I mean you have to rev up the engine more than you would if you were using a clutch.

Either way i'd stick to using the clutch, it's just easier and as long as you're a good driver a clutch will last you forever.

 

Warranty doesn't last all that long.

 

If I were to install a TRD exhaust with 300miles on the truck would it harm the break in procedure? Or should I just wait until fully broken in according to manual to intall this?

 

Is there a point to this comment or just dusting that a warranty is pointless to you?

 

^Based on limited experience, you can stop doing oil changes and the 1GR-FE will still make it past warranty before dying of oil sludge.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...a-1grfe-v6-engine-dead-98k-9.html#post5541472

Break-in may not matter within the warranty period, but could mean the difference between getting 200k and 300k out of it. To some Tacoma buyers, that's important.

 

Keep in mind most of these trucks come with 5-10 miles on them already. How many RPM's do you think the engine has gone with that many miles? A lot since most of those miles are putsing around waiting to get loaded and unloaded.

Old school cam break in was only 20 minutes of run time, then you are good to go. The engine may continue to break in and rings seat over the next few thousand miles, but really nothing you can do after initial run in.

By the time you buy the truck, the engine is pretty much already broken in. Probably with some significant idle time also. Waiting to get loaded onto a truck of a train just sitting there running.

My truck had 300 miles on it when I bought it. It was a dealer trade. That concerned me some since some schmuck probably hit the interstate and set the cruise the entire way. Got the truck cheaper, but figured it is what it is. I doubt I keep the truck long enough to hit 200-300k. I also know many trucks make it to those levels and am certain over that many miles NO TRUCK is pampered and babied the entire life. So to me, longevitity is luck of the draw and frequent maintanence and oil changes gives you the best shot to prevent wear.

Just my .02. RARELY do you hear of ANY new engine failures in cars or trucks. Yes, they still happen. SUBIE had a bunch of '08 WRX's popping engines due to bearing failures due to faulty parts and tolerances.

With modern manufacturing and computer controlled tolerances, really not much to worry about these days with break in.

Your diffs are broken in with 2 or maybe 3 heat cycles. (again, already done in those 5-10 initial miles)

Your transmission requires a fluid change after how many miles??? So break in on that really does not matter much IMO.

Keep in mind also, your engine is on the way out from the first day it turns over. So to think that by babying it at the beginning is somehow prolonging the inevitable is really not common sense.

I also think the 1000 mile rule works good for manufacturers since it basically nets them some extra time of pampering while under warranty. Do you think all the rags that test cars go out and BREAK THEM IN, before hammering them on their test laps and drag strips......I HIGHLY doubt they have time to rack out a couple thousand or more miles before doing so.

Also, if your truck came with 10-50 or so miles, how many test drives did it go on? Do you think the guy on the test drive did not HIT IT at all to test acceleration? Ask anyone that works at a dealer how many people drive like MS. DAISY on the test drive. My guess is that most cars get abused somewhat on a test drive.

 

"Also, if your truck came with 10-50 or so miles, how many test drives did it go on? Do you think the guy on the test drive did not HIT IT at all to test acceleration? Ask anyone that works at a dealer how many people drive like MS. DAISY on the test drive. My guess is that most cars get abused somewhat on a test drive."

X2

 

Use a little common sense, people. The purpose of the cautious (easy) breakin period isn't just to save the truck. It's also to save your butt if something (a mistake at the factory, etc) goes seriously wrong during that. The logic is that any such mistakes will likely show up early and you'll have a better chance of walking away unharmed if you're driving a bit more slowly (instead of like a madman). For your own well-being, follow the manufacturer's recommendations. They came up with those recommendations for a (valid) reason.