N/A Power Gains - Dynos w/Mods

Like he stated. X-1 only exists in used models. Basically if someone is selling theirs to get rid of it, or to upgrade to the UCON.

UCON is engineered by the same great minds behind the X-1, except it has much more love and support for refinements and upgrades. The UCON is an amazing EMS, and far superior to the X-1.

 

How much does UCON run ya installed?

 

Here is the link to the UCON: http://www.urdusa.com/Electronics-P...t-for-Toyota-1GR-FE-4.0L-V6/product_info.html

You can install it yourself.

 

I'm curious what the cost of the parts are to attain these numbers. I'm also curious what the max N/A power anyone has ever achieved.

All my past cars were boosted: MCooperS, M3, Evo 8.

I went the N/a route on my M3 before I boosted. Wasted money for minimal gain. But, looks like with bolt-on parts you can get a nice little boost in HP for the Tacoma.

I've been looking at boost options for my Tacoma. Been following your build thread, Torspd, and like what you've done.

I see there are some SC options. Also been researching turbo options. Haven't found a 'kit' that looks like a solution for my needs. In my experience turbos are the better route to go. More power and more options to go bigger if you wanted to.

Good stuff though. Appreciate the thread.

 

I have a strong feeling that the M3 had really well designed N/A componentry from the get go. Especially considering who made it, and the particular class of car it is. Especially compared to the Tacoma. So i completely understand where you are coming from.

Thank you for the compliments as well.

For boosting, the most complete kit on the market is the URD MKIII. Otherwise, as turbos go, it is still a custom job. No one has yet made a setup that they can regularly reproduce and sell. Dare I mention STS. They did, but STAY AWAY FROM THAT JUNK.

The intake is around $300+.
Doug Thorley Long tube headers -$540
URD Y-pipe. $469-489
URD 3" catback. $529. (Other manufactures will have varying prices. )
NST crank pulley. ~$150
Tuning device. Very large range.

Those should give a rough idea as far as which mods, and associated price points. Looking on URD, one can find most of the prices unless the want something URD doesnt carry.

I am not sure what the max power for an N/A is. There is one guy on XRU who had, I believe 255 whp and 298 wtq. That is the highest I am aware of.
Full exhaust, X-1, Intake, and a few other things I cannot remember.

 

BTW, I love this thread, hopefully we can keep it from degrading too much.....

Tor, if I add the numbers in your last post right, I get about $3.5-4K for about 60whp (assuming valid comparisons across dynos anyway). This compares to about 60whp and $4K for a TRD SC, if I remember correctly.

Interesting comparison to me if the numbers hold up, as I did not think the NA $/HP were that good. I also keep in mind that the TRD SC will probably make more daily driver HP then the NA mods that were listed, as I believe that those may cost some low end HP to enable the high end gains. As such, someone needs to ensure they understand what power they want and WHERE they want it to make the right decisions.

 

As an example: URD TCAI, $289 or AFe Stage 2 $329.50, + DTLTs for $540 (price is about same or cheaper than short tubes due to labor involved), + JBA catback for $289 = ~$1150 on the high side.

That should get someone close to 240 whp and 280 wtq. The plus to that is that if ine decides to go F/I, all of those components are kept and increase the performance of the F/I unit.

 

Which is important!

Been looking at the URD kits more. Seems guys are making close to 400whp with the stage II/III kits.

That's some nice numbers right there. And the trq curve is flat and meaty. Very tempting...

As mentioned previously it's important to keep in mind that dyno readings can easily be skewed across dyno's. Unless you go to the same dyno and try to recreate the exact conditions - the numbers really need to be taken with a grain of salt.

I'm probably going to go bolt on first - just to alleviate a little of the modding bug withdrawals that I'm getting. Then, when time/money permits will go FI. Boost is addictive!

 

With the supporting mods, on the MKIII, people are pretty consecutively making close to 450 whp. I will have to make an F/I thread to complement this N/A thread.

 

Do you also need to add the cost of the UCON to this? I would think the PSC Controller would not give the proper part throttle adjustments this combo would make. Is that a wrong assumption?

 

No, the cost of the UCON is not necessary. If added, one could further optimize the gains from the bolt on parts. It is not necessary unless one wants refined tuning, and further control.

Not quite sure what "PSC" stands for?

 

MAF cali....

 

Ah yes - sorry. The URD MAF Calibrator. I've got an old PSC1 that I was itching to make some use out of.....

 

My price quote was just a point of reference to give an idea of basic mods to a rough amount of power output. Everyone is free to choose the quality of the mods they purchase as well as the extent of how far they want to increase their power mods.

Basically: More power = More money. We all know that.

But for the basic Joe that wants to add a few parts in and wants an idea of what the cost and output is, there you go.

Mod to your heart's extent. I know I do.

 

I will be getting a dyno done (and hopefully custom tune for my maf cal) in the next couple months, hope to hit around those numbers. Afe stage 2 si, JBA LT headers, custom 2.5" catback with AT 2525, along ith Maf Cal with intake/catback tune from gadget

I'd be happy with 235 whp and 270 wtq, or basically around stock numbers to the crank

 

Sorta... That run looks really strange with how spiked it became, I'd really like to see another chart with short tubes but haven't found any. I'm still floored that short tubes give better low-end. The Taco is exact opposite to my previous autos. Short tubes were easy to install but gave high-rpm gains! Long tubes required welding and were a bitch but gave awesome low rpm torque

Yes you do! I'd like to end up s/c sometime and I'm curious which NA mods carry over best!

 

Called URD and spoke to gadget. Going to meet up some time next week to get a ride in his/their truck.

I'm going to go the full bolt-on route firt before going FI. I'm sure all the exhaust components will be able to be used once the supercharger is installed, but not sure if the CAI is reusable. It's been my experience that SC/Turbo kits use their own intake systems.

I'm sure gadget will set me straight once I take a trip up to URD.

Planning on getting a baseline dyno and one done after parts are installed so that I can contribute to this thread.

 

I agree - Long tubes for low end, however don't forget the big difference here is that the shorts still have the cats, and the longs don't. Put cats on the long tubes and I'll bet they pick up some low end torque (and lose some high end). I haven't seen anyone running cats on the LT's though.

 

If you plan on hands down installing the URD MKIII kit, don't get an intake, as it won't work with it.

Mainly just those that still have the factory Y-pipe, with its cats, after the long tubes.

 

ya Gadget will be able to hook you up man. I'd love to make a trip out to his shop some time in the fall so he could do a custom tune for me, and maybe give me a hook up on a fuel pump haha. Plus i'd just like to see the place