Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

oem toyota hubs are stronger than warns... but something to think about... if you have the warn hubs and they are your weak point in your axle, they are more likely the part that will break instead of your ring and pinion or other part that would be much more difficult and expensive to fix. Having an extra hub is easy and cheaper.

If you want the Aisin hubs, go to a junk yard and get some. Rebuild them (take them apart and regrease) and you should be good to go. It shouldnt cost you more than $100 and you will have good hubs that are stronger than any aftermarket you can get.

 

Well... Ordered new axles for my 9" Since I broke my last ones on the trip out. I also found out they were installed incorrect.

Oh, about the rear shafts, incase anyone wants to care (which is no one) But, in this photo here, you can see the backing plate is installed on the wrong side of the bearing. Thus making 3/4" less contact on the splines of my axles, thus most likely causing the twisting of my splines, thus causing the break.



Correct mounting (picture from el goog)



This is how it's suppose to come off, the backing plate should stay on the axle.. and of course mine didn't.. sigh



My carnage from the weekend.

 

all that horse power!

 

So much power, rawr.

 

Any of you guys know anything about Second Gen SAS? I have done some research and have a good idea on what I want to do but if anyone has any experience knowledge or opinions on 05+ SAS I could sure use the input. It wont happen for a while sine I am buying everything peice by peice. Thanks

 

small hiccup ....


Automatic Transmission Models:

Vehicles, which are equipped with ABS (Anti-lock Brake System), detect the vehicle speed using the skid control ECU (brake actuator assembly) and wheel speed sensor. The wheel speed sensor monitors the wheel rotation speed and sends a signal to the skid control ECU (brake actuator assembly). The skid control ECU (brake actuator assembly) converts the wheel speed signal into a 4-pulse signal and transmits it to the ECM via the combination meter assembly. The ECM determines the vehicle speed based on the frequency of the pulse signal.

 

What is it that you need to know?

 

Of course I broke, I was bouncing it like crazy. SAS can take that punishment. We don't have boots to tear

 

Well I have been talking with Joe about it and I just dont have enough information to go on. Not many SAS Second Gens out there. Whats the easiest way to go about it. I dont mean cheapest but easiest. Joe has given me some idea on which direction he is going but he has a much larger wallet than I do haha! I am not making a freaking crawler and will probably only go up to 35" tires but I like the power and capabilities of the SAS. Any ideas on which direction to go?

 

Haha love the new sig Joe. How do you get around this hiccup? I to have an auto.

 

Ill pm you the solution once I have it

Wyatt has it solved for us though

 

thanks man, dont know what I would do if I had never met you two crazy ass Canadian dudes!

 

lol one broke, the other spending money like its going out of fashion hahahaha

 

Get urself one of these....install it in the tcase (assuming you have the blank on the passenger side of the output "tailshaft"), wire one wire to grnd, one to pos, and splice the signal wire into the red/yellow wire in the loom at your abs controller.

info from Wyatt

if you no have plug at tcase you are screwed. I think they stopped sometime mid 06...

 

2011.... I have to look at fj cases anyways

 

Your signature intrigues me? Have you actually ever broken a cv on your 2011, because I bet you haven't...

And from your description a few posts up abour what you want to do with your truck, you dont need a SAC at all. Save your $$$ and the reliabilty inherent to the factory design of your vehicle. Now if you are gonna go hardcore with it, by all means SAC that bitch. But you will want to run bigger than 35's...

 

ive already gotten over just running 35's lol, once i seen the actual size in person, i wouldnt have been able to clear a rock with 1 tons and 35's

i understand what I'm getting myself into

I have broke three CV's to date now, with out a locker, granted two of them were with my spacer lift and than the last one was a lot more than just a CV that went......

 

Really? I have been wheeling mine for 6 years, locked fr/rr, on 35's and am in no way easy on my shit and never broke one on stock suspension. Did you break the cv or split a boot? Had you been running a split boots for a while and that led to the failure? Just curios as these cv's are 10x stronger than first gens.

 

how it worked was I turned full lock in 4-LO attempting to climb an obstacle, as I acclerated back and forth, back and forth the CV spun the actual metal casing and sheared the body

Toyota replaced it with what was susposed to be a "factory" replacement...... got to the next 4x4 meet and ripped that one in the same place.......

ordered my own TOYOTA axle and than i recently destroyed that one as i came down and wrecked more than just the CV.... lower BJ, axle seperated from the boot and a wheel bearing (but i slammed down on the whole under side of my LCA,, bent the LCA and spindle..... really not sure how i caused so much damage through a small decent but it happened, i managed to get home with spare parts, but still had to replace the spindle and LCA

thus leading to me having destroyed 3 axles, now i think the one the stealership put in was a jobber but to each their own I tried to call them out on it, but they would have nothing of it

 

That sucks Joe. I didnt know you busted o many CVs but you arent one to back down either haha