The defenition of "I had to trim"

You are going to murder your mpgs with 33's and a 4 banger....... but they do look awesome and i love mine...... i had to trim the plastic at the front and rear of the fender, now no rub anywhere...... i have trd sport rims with 1.25 inch spidertrax and 285/70/17 duratracs

 

I trimmed a little...





Can't stand to rub...

 

^ thats what i need

 

295/75r16's with stock UCA's billes set at 2.25 in the front and a 1.5" AAL in the rear.

 

great work on that

 

Do you got a pic of what they look like set 1.25 inches out?

 

295's fuck yeah

 

No i didnt i had to add the spacers bc i was rubbing alittle on the uca but i love the look now

 

I think Im just gonna simplify things and keep the 265/70/17s I have now and get the front coils to go from 1.75 to 2.5, and get the rear 1.5" more with either the AAL or leaf pack. Add the 17x8 4.5 bs rims and leave that. Once these tires are toast I will look into larger ones, but not for now. Im sure it will look fine

 

lol its funny because in the 2 hours since I wrote that I changed my mind back and fourth 2 more times. I just cant do it.....I have more problems committing to truck parts/builds then a relationship lol

 

Get 255/80/17's , skip the trim

 

oz has the right idea. lol rubbing gets old very quickly i absolutely hate it. i have already done so much trimming though on mine i'm dam near ready for 315's or 35's

i could drive them on the street without issue i think but, off road is a whole different matter all together then its back to scraping the bejesus out of my wheel wells

 

Well thing is I have 265/70/17s with like 85% tread still, so Im thinking about just keeping them until I make up my mind for the next tires. So many options, but Im still doing the Eibach/AAL lift

 

Zero rub at RC all day yesterday.

 

^^^^^take my money dammit^^^^^ hahaha

 

At this point full fiberglass fenders would be more cost effective than what I did.

 

Stick with the 265's! Love my 32's

 

There are many different sizes for each metirc size. I would reccomend against 295s for anyone considering tires. That size will cause rub that cannot be avoided in many differnt tires. Toyo M/T or Nitto mud tires, 295/70R17 will rub the cab mount even with a cab mount chop. No non spindle or DB lift will clear 295/70R17 with those tires... you WILL rub.

TO THE OP:

To me clearancing means CLEAR. That means no possible rub. I clearanced with sets of cutting, trimming, alignment changes, etc. While at some levels it did not rub on road, all it took was pulling a steep driveway entrance ina parking lot into a driveway at speed to get the BRRRAAPPPP!!!! of my lugs tearing at plastic on my fender flares.

Also remember a few key things:

1. If it can rub, it eventually will rub, and if it does rub, it will eventually damamge something.

2. Every tire of a particular metric size... 285/70R17, for example, is a DIFFERENT SIZE. Some are 33.2" tall, some are 32.7" tall, soome are 11.2" wide, some are 11.7" wide, etc. Be sure YOUR TIRE will fit, not the same size in a different tire.

3. After market UCA add caster to get you a good alignement. They do this by moving the rear joint to the rear. This, in turn, moves the WHOLE WHEEL AND TIRE TO THE REAR. So UCA makes rubbing WORSE while making alignment BETTER.

Below is a pic of my 285/70R17 Nitto Trail Grappler, wheels turned about 70% to side, with an aftermarket UCA and this is AFTER a cab mount chop... that steel used to stick out an inch more. The next pic is after about 2" of compression. The alignment is with max CASTER and near zero CAMBER and TOE. So you think a bigger tire will fit... say a 296/70R17? Hell no, it won't. To solve this I had to go to 3.5 deg CASTER, which is over factory spec (move lower control arm forward). There is no more room to move the LCA forward, thus I am at ABSOLUTE MAX tire size.





4. For all our axles, once the rear spring goes into inverted arch, the axle moves forward. This means the more room there is for the rear axle to compress, the more forward the rear tire will be in the wheel well at max compression. Also, the rear being attached to springs means it has give. This give, be it just a bending under the pressure of gravity or in the form of axle wrap makes the tire position under load different and a little unpredictable.

The big thing is this... a short spring (TSB with facotry leaf with no overload for example) combined with a short bumpstop (stock bumpstop, for example) will result in extra room for compressionand extra room of the wheel to move forward. If you get too big a tire and too much compression you have to run an axle relocate plate to move the reasr axle to the rear 3/4" or you will rip off your rear fenders and fender liner.

Here is my rear axle AFTER moving the rear axle with an axle relocate plate. One side is stuffed, the other drooped. You will only do this offroading HARD. It wont happen going into driveways and such.



Now can you imagine if that rear tire could compress a little more without the axle relocate plate (acts like a 3/8" lift block due to thickness) and was 3/4" more forward? Previously, I had ripped off my rear fender while wheeling and you can see why.

In conclusion, dont select a 295/70 R17 tire, especially a Nitto Trail or Toyo M/T.

285/70R17 is as big as you want and even that takes special attention to solve rubbing issues.

 

i trimmed properly for mine the only thing left is to clearance my flares other than that i rub no where and my alignment is 100% in factory spec.

i was hesitant to do a lot of trimming but, the pinch weld and the cab chop are fine and easy to do as a matter of fact i'm positive my cab mount is now twice as strong as it was before.

for me at least and the way my truck is set up they work great. i had it on a clearance rack at ok auto with the tech going over what needed to be done and what they could do time wise we mashed every wheel at full compression and lock. to our eyes the flares need some modification and the truck is good

 

i'm also running timbren bumps in the rear so i'm not getting full compression out back but even then its only a matter of trimming the flares like maximillion or homer.

btw, what bs are your wheels devl? and if you did the cab chop you didn't take enough off mine is completely half way gone and welded back together.