4.0L 1GR 2nd Gen Oil Change Guide

I have had the best luck with the "strap" wrench that has what looks like (and probably IS) seatbelt webbing. You get it down as close to the base of the filter as you can.

Superficial dents/gouges on the filter won't do anything, but if they go more than about 1/8" in, or seep oil, I'd say it's not too great an idea to drive it.

Are you trying to remove it cold or hot? You might try driving around (if it isn't already crushed!) until the engine is good and hot, then park and immediately try to break the filter free.

 

The chisel he's suggesting (or a flat blade screwdriver) will just 'bite' into the base of the filter, as long as you keep it at the BASE. Tap tap tap...it may only move a degree at a time, but after several taps it should be broken free enough to rotate.

 

If you have the oil cooler it'll make it easier. You'll put the chisel or screwdriver almost horizontal and angled perpendicular to the driver side of the filter. So the screwdriver tip pointed almost towards the driver rear corner of the truck and dig it into the base. It'll take a few tries but you'll get it to bite and as long as you keep it right at the very lip of the filter, where it's thick you won't put a hole in it, and you can tap it right around and off.



If you don't have the oil cooler that filter sits down inside there and you'll have to attack it from another angle.

Honestly I service equipment all the time, all sorts of filters, and I hardly have ever used a strap wrench. I usually use channel locks if I can't get it off, and if that doesn't work I tap it off from the base.

 

I always used my claw wrench at the top of the filter where you see the edges, that is where the filter is strongest to remove. I agree that i like the strap wrench as it doesn't damage filters like the claw wrenches do. I wouldn't put a claw wrench on the middle of the filter as it will just crush it in.

 

yes, i have the oil cooler - looks just like yours in the pic.. i think i understand what your saying, i'm just leary of chiseling into something thinking i'll put a hole in it... maybe i'll go to the h/w store and see if i can get a bigger set of channel lock plyers?...

 

UPDATE: ok, i finally got it off!!!! if anyone's interested in my secret method, feel free to ask!

ok, so my next question:
1) the OE filter from the factory is a different part no. than the new one i got from toyota (the YZZD3 one) and the base of it (where it mates w/ the fixture housing) is different..
2) the new filter came w/ what appears to be some silicone grease on the seal... is it ok to install this way, ..i thought i read that silicone grease on the seal is better for getting it back off than just wiping oil on it..???

 

Yes, yzzd3 is the correct filter. just install it the way it came (with the grease)

 

hmm.. yep that's what i'm thinking, ...although on the "instructions" on the filter box is says use oil, ..

 

Without seeing it I can't tell you what to do so I'd say just put oil on it anyway. Won't matter.

Feel free to list your method.

 

installed it w/ the silicone grease on it, ..so far so good i think... new drain plug washer, and torqued drain plug to 30 ft-lbs w/ torque wrench, ..so hopefully did it right

thanks to everyone for the help!

 

Well I'm telling you, if you ever need to get a stuck filter off, that method works every time. Glad you got er done though.

 

yep, that is an interesting tip, thankyou.. i have to build my confidence up, ...hopefully (since i install them from here on out), i won't have it so bad in 5000 miles..

 

Yeah, gasket meets base, then 1/2 turn more on install. Then you can pull it off by hand.

 

Ya oil filter removal can be fun, I took my truck in for its 30,000 mile service and whoever did the oil change over tightened the oil filter, out came the channel locks! I always install the oil filter as stated on the filter and never have had an issue. The nice thing about where are oil filters sit on our trucks is that it can be checked at the same time you check you oil if you're worried about it coming loose.

 

What drain pans do you all prefer? I'm looking for one that I can seal to take to the local shop for recycling.

 

I poor the oil back into the bottle and that way I can just drop it off and not have to wait for the pan to drain the last bit out. (can leave it draining at home as long as necessary)

 

I am having a similar problem that another user had, but i didnt see an answer. I let the oil drain for about 30-35 minutes until there was no longer the drippity drippity. had the filter off and no oil left there. put the plug back, put new filter on, poured in the 5.5 qts. ran the motor for about 5 minutes, and then checked the dip stick. it was about 2 inches above the full line. am i missing something?

 

I have not read the entire thread here so I'm not sure what others have mentioned regarding this but from my experience I use about 5 1/8 to 1/4 of a qt. but this will vary and can take the 5 1/2 qts. You will never get every bit of oil out so it may not take what it says it should. Not a good idea to overfill, better to start a little down and work you way up to the full line, I usually start with putting the 5 qts plus just a little(1/8 of a qt) first. 5 minutes seems way to long to me after an oil change, I'm not sure what is recommended by Toyota or what others are doing but I typically run my motor a minute or less and check the level after about 5 minutes.

 

How many miles do you go until you do a change?

 

I usually go around 5k, but I use Mobile one Synthetic.