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Help Replacing Brake Lines

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by Snyperx, Apr 19, 2009.

  1. Apr 19, 2009 at 6:54 AM
    #1
    Snyperx

    Snyperx [OP] Seniore Marcos

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    Ok, so I purchased a set of the Goodridge SS brake lines for my 2005 Taco. I was going to try and replace the lines yesterday, but seem to be having an issue with the nuts that connect the hard brake line to the stock rubber brake line. I have not been able to get the nuts loose on the rear lines. I have tried applying PB Blaster to the threads and letting it soak, but every time I try and loosen the nuts it feels like the nut starts to round off. Of course I stop so I do not round off the nut. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to getting the nuts loose on the brake lines?? I freaking hate Midwest winters!!!:mad: Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Apr 19, 2009 at 7:00 AM
    #2
    Snipe

    Snipe Well-Known Member

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    I haven't worked on brake lines in years but I remember having a wrench set that looked like box wrenches with a slot cut in the end, the slot allowed you to slip the wrench onto the line and then you slid it down to the nut, they worked great cause it is almost as much contact as a full box wrench
     
  3. Apr 19, 2009 at 7:03 AM
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    Snipe

    Snipe Well-Known Member

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  4. Apr 19, 2009 at 7:19 AM
    #4
    Snyperx

    Snyperx [OP] Seniore Marcos

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  5. Apr 19, 2009 at 7:36 AM
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    Snyperx

    Snyperx [OP] Seniore Marcos

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    Would a flare nut wrench work? I can't seem to find anyone that carries a "line wrench". Also do does anyone know if the wrench has to be a 12 point or willa 6 point work? I can find the 6 point style everywhere.

    UPDATE: Well with a little googling it would seem that I answered my own question. A flare nut wrench is in fact a line wrench.
     
  6. Apr 19, 2009 at 2:14 PM
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    Snyperx

    Snyperx [OP] Seniore Marcos

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    Ok, I picked up a set of metric flare nut wrenches from Autozone. It would seem that the nuts on the solid brake lines are 10mm. I put the wrench on and tried again to loosen the nut. No go. I have no idea how I am going to get the nuts off to replace the lines. I am scared if I crank on the nut to hard I will either ruin the nut or damage the solid brake line itself. I don't want to end up making my truck undriveable. Not sure what my next step should be.
     
  7. Apr 19, 2009 at 3:03 PM
    #7
    SC4333

    SC4333 Well-Known Member

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    Unless you are in a tight area, the 6 point will give a lessor chance of rounding off the nut. Always go with a 6 point socket or wrench if the situation permits.
     
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  8. Apr 20, 2009 at 5:11 PM
    #8
    br217398

    br217398 Crazy Person.....

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    have you had any luck yet?? about to purchase ss brake lines myself.....
     
  9. Apr 20, 2009 at 6:06 PM
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    Snyperx

    Snyperx [OP] Seniore Marcos

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    No, none. The flare nuts are frozen onto the brake hose fittings. I am going to work on it again, but the weather got cold this week.
     
  10. Apr 20, 2009 at 6:24 PM
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    br217398

    br217398 Crazy Person.....

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    oh ok. saw the WI... im down in FL where cold is below 70. good luck though!
     
  11. Apr 20, 2009 at 6:45 PM
    #11
    Snyperx

    Snyperx [OP] Seniore Marcos

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    After reading my post I should say that the nuts aren't frozen from the cold, but frozen from rust. I have sprayed PB Blaster to try and loosen the nuts, but it didn't work.
     
  12. Apr 20, 2009 at 6:51 PM
    #12
    DanGer

    DanGer Avatar approved by 98tacomav6

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    Just spray it about 2-3 time daily with the vigor of a college student about to lose his virginity and hopefully it will loosen up...the nuts that is....on your truck
     
    Island Cruiser and gulzeb like this.
  13. Apr 20, 2009 at 7:17 PM
    #13
    SC4333

    SC4333 Well-Known Member

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    Just out of curiosity, did you end up going with a 6 point line wrench, and if so what brand of wrench are you using? Unless the fitting is already marred from previously trying to take it off with an open end wrench, you should be able to crank on it with the 6 point and not have to worry about stripping the fitting.
     
  14. Apr 21, 2009 at 4:25 AM
    #14
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    Don't forget about getting new crush washers!
     
  15. Apr 21, 2009 at 5:34 AM
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    Snyperx

    Snyperx [OP] Seniore Marcos

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    I ended up getting a set of Great Neck flare wrenches from Autozone. All I know is when I crank down on the nut the entire hard line starts to twist from the force, so I always stop so I don't destroy the hard line.
     
  16. Apr 21, 2009 at 5:35 AM
    #16
    Snyperx

    Snyperx [OP] Seniore Marcos

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    Shouldn't the Goodridge SS lines already have them with the kit?
     
  17. Apr 22, 2009 at 7:26 AM
    #17
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    ;) Not sure....
    They're copper washers with tiny ridges on 'em.

    Get a torch and heat the nut a bit... this should help 'expand' the metal and hopefully loosen up the rust, etc. Have a fire extinguisher ready, just in case. Flare wrench (in proper size) is the best tool.

    I've had to use a torch countless times on various other vehicles (including the old tacoma). It's a bitch....but have patience and be careful.
     
  18. Apr 22, 2009 at 7:45 AM
    #18
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Also, try tapping the wrench with a small hammer. The impacts can help to loosen anything frozen on.
     
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  19. Apr 22, 2009 at 8:16 AM
    #19
    Snyperx

    Snyperx [OP] Seniore Marcos

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    I would do that, but the torch would cause the brake fluid to boil wouldn't it? I am not draining the entire system or at least trying to avoid it. I am going to keep applying PB Blaster in the hopes it loosens up. Can anyone else confirm the need of crush washers on the 05+ Tacos? Janester mentioned I may need them, but she pointed out she has more experience with the older Tacos. Thanks for the responses folks, its greatly appreciated as always.
     
  20. Apr 22, 2009 at 3:36 PM
    #20
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    Anytime you disconnect the brake lines (and allow air into the system), you have to bleed the brakes. Boiling the fluid won't matter because you'll be flushing part of it out when you bleed the brakes.

    After doing some research myself (and going outside and looking at my truck), you have a flare compression fitting (hard line) directly into the caliper. So - you don't need a crush washer. Sorry about that.... :eek: I keep learning more and more about these new trucks (I'm used to old school stuff).
     

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