2008 Tundra 1GRFE V6 Engine Dead at 98k

There's three ways a filter can fail, the outside can burst, releasing oil, engine fails. Didn't happen here.

The filter can clog, in which case most oil systems have a bypass circuit, either in the engine, or in the filter. A quick google search would leave me to believe that the 1GR-FE's is in the filter. If this don't work, a clogged filter will restrict flow to the bearings. New filter, unlikely.

The filter media can come appart or a spring or other internal part of the filter can fail, allowing pieces of filter media to be pushed past the filter, blocking oil passages, causing engine failure. IMO, this is your most likely root cause, IF the filter is to blame. Spin it off and conduct a good 'ol non-destructive examination (just look inside).

 

I don't know if anyone's considered this, but the oil pump may have gone bad. I remembered reading this TW thread a year ago about Toyota having documented cases of faulty oil pumps in the 1GR engine. It's kinda long, but it has some good info and pictures.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/73107-sounds-like-bad-pulley-wish.html

 

i thought our drivetrain was warrantied for 6 years..

hmmm..maybe over mileage.?

 

I wanted to check this, but another user recommended not to touch it yet, and I think he's right also.. The thing is, if I take the truck to the dealer, they can take the filter out and swap it for another old one from the same brand and tell the filter didn't fail. And I would already spend around 200$ to haul the truck to the dealer for nothing.

This situation is kind of frustrating.

I just finished a talk to the dealer service dept. manager in deerfield beach, fl. He said that they would have to take a look at the truck... That 'Take a look' would cost 500$. He also said that the engine needs replacing (kinda obvious) and that they can get a used one for 4500$ plus 2500$ for labor, that plus 500$ just for diagnostics.

By his own words: 'Just in the remote chance that the engine failed because the oil filter used, we would cover only the labor costs because you should have had to quit using the truck as soon as the noise began.' These guys are amazing.

Hauling the truck to a toyota dealer near Orlando, 200$. Make them check it to see what happened, 500$. Hear them say that I need a used engine of 4500$ plus 2500$ for labor, priceless.

I think I'm just gonna take the engine out, fit another one and then run an test on the oil and filter of the old one, if the filter is the cause, my lawyer will for sure have a meeting with toyota of south orlando.


Of couse guys, I'll let you know what was found on the oil and filter

 

Yes, 6yr 60k miles.

I have 98k... Which, in late days cars quality, I would not consider that too much.

I drive a 2008 C300 benz with 90k miles in it, and that car is absolutely flawless. Ran a oil test last oil change and its perfect.

 

WAAAAAIIIIITTTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
GUYS This dude ecoterragagia may have the reason!
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I don't know if anyone's considered this, but the oil pump may have gone bad. I remembered reading this TW thread a year ago about Toyota having documented cases of faulty oil pumps in the 1GR engine. It's kinda long, but it has some good info and pictures.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...lley-wish.html

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I just read the post AND:
I did have also a noise in the previous days like a squeaking noise that seemed to be like a pulley issue to me. Bought WD-40 the day before of the travel to Miami and applied some WD-40 on the pulleys before leaving home and head to Miami because I was almost sure it was a pulley noise.

Another clue is that my engine did not throw any dtc codes or check engine light either.

This is exactly the same that was happening to my truck. I can also swear that the noise was harder on the driver side than in the passenger side. This guy was sorted out for 2700$, of couse warranty didn't pay anything for him. And he was also told that replacing an engine would be 7k. Wonder if he spoke to the same stealer as I did.

 

Yes dudes. It is it... Oil pump failure.

Just called a mechanic that a friend recommended and said that he has had 4 cases like this before and with the same 1grfe engine. Started as a pulley-like noise, ended up being a oil pump out of pressure.

Oil pumps should have lasted for at least 200k miles....

Keep an ear on yours people.

 

$500 for diagnostics? I call BS. Def time to call Toyota North America.
The noise that you heard before you left for your trip... did it sound like this

 

yeah now question is, What is toyota doing about these failures? They must know about it and this happening could definatly cause a safety issue. Just think if you were driving at speed, you punch a hole in the block, then oil & coolant gets all over your rear tire. Not to mension you would lose your power steering at the same time.

 

Looks like a Donaldson?
Those don't get a lot of love because they generally aren't something available from Autozone, but their air filters are OEM on most Diesel pickups. They are primarily a corporate/fleet supplier.
Nothing wrong with them.

 

Ditto.

Once one was shown opened up, then identifying details could be determined such as the material construction and bypass valve configuration (in this case, the small white button on top perhaps?).

Other than the Champion Labs E-Core design, which hits you in the face when you look down the center hole and see the plastic cage, there are SOME details apparent on the outside, such as the size and number of holes in the base, crimping and base shape, and even stamped numbers on the base.... But bases can be similar and without opening the thing up it's difficult to determine the source.


Just like here... from the OP's video, we saw only a white container and no writing, just a stamp on the side. That is similar to Jiffy Lube's filter, which is made by Fram.

 

No. its different.

Its just like when you have a pulley with a 'dry' bearing

 

I called Toyota of north america today and guess what they say?

- There's no recall or TSB for this failure on your truck.

I just hanged up.

 

I already post a couple pictures of the filter in detail

 

I know that and saw them.

I was referring to the initial video, which was all we had to go on last night.
The filter looked like a Jiffy Lube/Fram "plain white" filter from what we could see.

It does look like your filter is a Donaldson from comments on BITOG, and even though made in China, nothing wrong with the design that would make it prone to failure.

Honestly, the Champion E-Core filter (STP, Supertech, AC Delco) is the only one that has had a confirmed failure evidenced with photos. The filter media migrated through the plastic cage and plugged the outlet.

For all of the Fram hate, and it is well deserved, I've never seen a report of IMMEDIATE engine failure due to Fram. They are junk, they don't filter worth a shit, their bypass valves leak, their anti-drainback valves don't seal... but they don't sent material into the engine and they have (at least as of 2012) retained a solid metallic center core support.


I agree that your failure was most likely caused by the pump and not the cheap filter.

 

I removed the filter a few minutes ago.. I'm not a filter-doctor but it seems to be just fine. Nothing seems to be wrong at the first sight.

 

Did the oil light never come on? That would be unusual, unless the sending unit is bad. I would think there would have been some warning light at some point.

 

If OP experienced the same sort of oil pump failure as the other TW member (username = 'lucky'), then there wouldn't have been a CEL. Lucky's engine was dieing a slow death because there was in fact oil being pumped, it just wasn't enough to keep the internals cool and/or properly lubed.

The OP's oil pump may have been going bad for quite a while. If there was too little oil pressure to the system, then the bottom end clearances were too low and the rod bearings would've scraped away at the crank until finally one of them slipped. The OP said that he heard slight knocking for a while, then suddenly the loud knocking he posted in his video. When it turned loud is probably when the bearing slipped out.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tundras/

 

Oil light /= CEL... the CEL might illuminate after a failure related to the oiling system depending on what the engine did, but for the most part, the CEL is driven by a failure in the emissions system, or when commanded by the ECU because it has been requested by the trans control module or ABS system.

But this underscores a problem with the common "idiot light" oil pressure switch.
Minimum acceptable oil pressure is a matter of opinion, but commonly, manufacturers are okay with as little as 8psi at idle, and 10psi for every 1000rpm up to 4000rpm.

Oil pressure switches are all over the place in where they actually operate. I added an OP gauge to my motorcycle, but I wanted to retain the idiot light. I checked the stock switch and it opened at 3psi.
I went through 6 more switches and installed one that remained closed until 8psi.

So the problem is, we have a switch that is designed to keep the idiot light from coming on during idle on a hot engine running 0w20 synthetic on a 125 degree day in the desert.
The oil pressure that is acceptable until that condition... during idle... is far lower than what is required at 2500rpm hauling up a mountain grade.
But the oil pressure switch is not intelligent enough to know the difference.
If it sees 5-10psi, it's going to assume all is good.