Cheap/Free Mods

Yes I carry one also and use it to swap out the stock Dungflops I use when commuting for the 33" BFG KM2s when it's time to have fun.

 

tacopoker: Make sure when you quote others you don't type anything until AFTER all the text of the quote which ends with [/QUOTE] you can type here. In several of your 5 posts you start typing in the middle of the HTML tags which blends your post with the quoted post making it a mess to read.

 

Just did the intermittent wiper arm mod on my 2012 regular cab. Fits and works like a charm. Took about 10 minutes. Great DIY write ups on this board

 

Sub'd

Thanks to all who come up with/document these mods.

 

Roland, Thanks for the great step-by-step tutorial.
I did mine in about 10 minutes thanks to you!

 

Where's the In-Cab 110v outlet mod?

 

#35 under Mods.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/4838-cheap-free-mods-5.html

Edit: Never mind, link doesn't take you to it on TN.

 

Have you clicked on it? I get nothing...

 

Ya no worky for me either, didn't know thats what you meant. You can look at the 400W inverter Anytime mod, there is how to ad plugs on that thread as well, if thats what your doing.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/156894-how-inverter-400w-anytime-mod.html

 

Yea, printed that off. Trying it today.

 

This is for those who have factory DRL, and who want to have turn signals without having them on all the time (like will happen if you tee into the front turn signals).

Put my ARB bumper on yesterday, did the wiring for the turn signals today. Didn't want to have them on all the time with the DRLs, but I did want them wired up. I figured the way to do it was to hook into the rear turn signals. After some hunting around, I got it wired up perfectly, without duplicating my DRLs.

I'll get some pics of the actual lights illuminated, so you can see what it looks like. In the meantime, here's how to do it.

Access the fuse panel (driver's knee coin drawer). Looking to the left of the fuses, you'll note that there are two horizontally-mounted connectors at the top, then a white recessed horizontal connector, then a black recessed horizontal connector, and to the right of both of those is a white recessed vertical connector. The one you want is the first white horizontal recessed connector.

You'll want to tee off the blue & white wire at the #2 position on the top (for right turn), and the solid yellow wire at the #3 position on the bottom (for left turn). Negative is grounded to your choice of grounding locations.

It's really pretty simple.

You'll note in my pics that my preferred way of teeing into wires when there is a connector nearby is to insert long, skinny spades (some GM terminals I came across) into the connector itself. I'm not a fan of Quick Taps, or breaking the insulation if I don't have to.

The connector in question is the one that has my black shrink-wrapped wires piggy-backed onto the white connector, routed upward.

 

I wanted to do this but couldn't find that piece of metal in that size, so i ended up buying a door latch from Home Depot that I put a piece of rubber at the end of and that fits right into the slot the rear window slides in

 

I only ever open my rear window about 2" or so, just enough for good air flow, but not enough for stuff to get sucked in while driving. I need to make one of these so it will only open that far.

 

You can buy it from Home Depot (Defender Security brand U-9512) where the door locks are located.

I'm glad I did cause like you, i rarely open the rear window and if i do it's only for a few inches...... my biggest concern was for someone to slide it open and reach in and grab something i leave on the backseat

 

Square wood dowell. 25 cents.

 

just did this myself, great right up thanks op!

 

You're welcome! Which one did you do?

 

anytime fogs!....probably the easiest

 

will it work on a 99 taco 4x4 5 spd 2.7