DMH Exhaust cutout

Loud as hell...just letting anyone doing this mod that you shouldn't tighten the 3 nuts to tight, use red/blue thread-locker and snug or torque at the same exhaust nut specs as specified..... to tight and the butterfly will not move freely, no other problems yet but will keep a close eye/ear on the cutout and report any changes......sorry but I got no write ups or pictures, no dynos but feels like I lost low end but top end feels more open and feel I hit the higher rpms faster.

 

does it cut out after the cat(s)? it should gain more top end lose bottom end power due to the loss of backpressure.

 

Yeah after the single cat and 02 sensers, no cels yet....I only open it up on open roads or sometimes just to scare the crap out of other drivers ...

 

Hell yea electric cut outs anyone/scare the hell out of others is a great idea in my opinion.

 

Basically the same setup as the third picture is how I got it set up...
I'll try to get picture up

 

WoW!! I would love to hear/see this DHM Cutout on an 06' Tacoma. (4.0) If it sounds like I want mine I am DEF. going to purchase!..Very nice.

 

bump.

anyone have a clip of this cutout installed on a 4.0 Tacoma?

 

i feel like thats such a waste of money... how much those things cost?

 

$200 from DMH Performance

 

why is is a waste of money compared to an aftermarket exhaust?
you're basically getting this instead of an aftermerket exhaust. You get the full sound of the engine with the ability to go full stock at the flip of a switch for when you don't want the drone while cruising.
I like the concept, but only for the sound of it, not performance.

Where do people install these where you don't throw a CEL?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F64rIwDUb4E

That's an opinion your entitled to but to me it was not a waste. I have a choice of an exhaust and I can change on the fly. If I want to play I can but the 95% or so of the time that I'm just driving I don't want the noise or better yet the drone. So what's a "waste" to you has turned out to work pretty well for me.

 

Mine's after all the cats and before the muffler. I've never had a problem with any codes.

To see if you like running with out a muffler unbolt at the flange after the y pipe. It's just two bolts.

 

I love tha sound of my cut out open, especially with my headers. I just wished i wouldve purchased an electric one. It sucks having to manually open and close the cutout, so i just leave it open. I get plenty of compliments for tha sound of my truck, even from tha cop who lives down tha street from my parents, he wants one on his tundra now. Its worth it in my opinion.

 

If your y pipe or what ever you call it has three bolts you can go electric

http://racereadyperf.net/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=28

 

Can you explain where you wired the positive and ground wires? Or can anyone explain how/where you would wire something (maybe lights for example) that only draws power when the truck is running? There I've read that you can wire it to the cigarette lighter? Any pictures or how to's on this? Also read that you can buy 18 or 22 GA wire and wire it straight to the battery? Correct me if I'm wrong. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Bump
Anyone?

 

I'm not familiar with this kit in particular but wiring something so it only gets power when the truck is "on" is the same process regardless of what you're wiring.

You'll need a switch, a relay, an in-line fuse and some wire (and possible an Add-a-circuit depending on how you wire in). Make sure all electrical components are sized appropriately for the load. First, find a circuit that is only 'hot' when the key is turned to on, or piggy back off of an existing circuit that is known to only be 'hot' when the truck is on (the cigarette lighter meets this criteria, otherwise take a test light to the under hood fuse panel and test some circuits). Once you find the circuit you want to use, tap into the positive side of that circuit (by a wire tap or an add-a circuit) and run that wire to the power input side of your switch, then to the relay. That wire will trigger the relay when the circuit is on and the switch is on. Next, run a wire from the battery to the in-line fuse, then to the power input on the relay. Power out from the relay will power whatever you're trying to run. Make sure you ground everything properly (the switch, relay and accessory all need to have solid grounds).