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Benchtop....

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by Pster, Apr 13, 2009.

  1. Apr 13, 2009 at 12:29 PM
    #1
    Pster

    Pster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have a workbench that is 8 ft long and 36 inches deep. It is very heavy 1.5" or 2" MDF, so dimensionally very stable. But...I want to put a sheet of steel on the top to have a heavy duty work surface. Possibly stainless. Has anyone done this? If so, how did you attach it (bolts, industrial adhesive, etc.) and most importantly, where did you get it and how much? I am thinking I am going to have to find a metal supply and fabrication shop to do this for me (two of the four corners are rounded).
     
  2. Apr 13, 2009 at 12:40 PM
    #2
    cvillechopper

    cvillechopper Jackass to the masses

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    You can get sheets of 18ga (16ga if you really want to go nuts) from Lowe's or similar hardware store. Just use a propane torch and mallet to shape it then glue it down. I'm thinking of trying that once I get my new workshop built.
     
  3. Apr 13, 2009 at 12:48 PM
    #3
    Pster

    Pster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Cool! Cville....you really think/know that Lowes sells these sheets? I'll check it out....this would be great. I can cut/grind down the corners....
     
  4. Apr 13, 2009 at 4:17 PM
    #4
    cvillechopper

    cvillechopper Jackass to the masses

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    I've picked up 4'x4' sheets from Lowes plenty of times and I'm pretty sure that I've seen larger sheets there. I'll check next time I'm there.
     
  5. Apr 13, 2009 at 4:20 PM
    #5
    TacoNut

    TacoNut IgnoringChrisWatchingEdLi veVicariouslyThroughMJP2

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    Last I bought ( a couple of weeks ago) a 4X8 sheet of 16 Ga. hot rolled was $61
     
  6. Apr 13, 2009 at 4:30 PM
    #6
    Pster

    Pster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Cool, thanks guys.......
     
  7. Apr 13, 2009 at 4:32 PM
    #7
    Brunes

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    Just curious...Why a metal top??
     
  8. Apr 13, 2009 at 4:38 PM
    #8
    Pster

    Pster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Bak Flip bed cover, shorty antenna, Peripheral iPod interface, Garmin 750 mount, add'l bed tie down rings, Westin nerf bars, hitch safe, tailgate lock, Ideal 1 3/4" turn-key clamp to secure tailgate from removal, Spare tire security cable, spare tire stainless air hose extender, Fumoto oil drain valve, Amp Research Bed X-Tender w/Schlage Cable Lock, bed mat, Redline hood struts
    I was fixing the brass manifold and backflow preventer for my irrigation system this weekend (brass valve just split....bad forging) and it ripped the shit out of the top of my workbench. I have always thought a steel top, polished and coated, would look good and hold up a lot better. My workbench is entirely metal except for the top. It is a Craftsman with metal pegboard backwall. I mounted an electrical strip on it and recently installed a Utilitech overhead light.......
     
  9. Apr 13, 2009 at 4:50 PM
    #9
    Brunes

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    ::nods:: Makes sense....I wasn't thinking about an in general workbench...Cause metal could mar car parts if you were working on there...but makes sense cause you can throw a mat or something down to protect car parts....but having a metal top to avoid damaging a wood work surface makes sense.

    Thanks!!
     
  10. Apr 13, 2009 at 4:54 PM
    #10
    Pster

    Pster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yep, I have rubber mats to put down when I work on more delicate items. But I want something I can hit with an errant screwdriver or hammer and not be bothered. I do EVERYTHING on my workbench....except wifee (and I wish she would)? :D
     
  11. Apr 13, 2009 at 4:58 PM
    #11
    Brunes

    Brunes abides.

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    That sounds like a failure on your part....lol.:cool:
     
  12. Apr 14, 2009 at 6:26 AM
    #12
    Pster

    Pster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Bak Flip bed cover, shorty antenna, Peripheral iPod interface, Garmin 750 mount, add'l bed tie down rings, Westin nerf bars, hitch safe, tailgate lock, Ideal 1 3/4" turn-key clamp to secure tailgate from removal, Spare tire security cable, spare tire stainless air hose extender, Fumoto oil drain valve, Amp Research Bed X-Tender w/Schlage Cable Lock, bed mat, Redline hood struts
    You got that right.....I've either lost my touch or her expectations are unreasonable. Perhaps some of both. :p
     
  13. Apr 14, 2009 at 6:41 AM
    #13
    Hotdog

    Hotdog My hair is all natural Moderator

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    I worked at a lawnmower shop and they put a stainless top on all their workbenches. That was probably 15 years ago, so my pricing will be pretty bad. Call around to a few different shops and get quotes. Some places really want the work and have taken the dropping steel prices into account.

    You don't want to do two different sheets, so you'll have to order it from a metal distributor. I would have them put two breaks (bends) in the metal to wrap around front edge, then have them shear(cut) the other side. They'll probably debur(smooth the edges) it, but request it anyway. It would take them about 15 minutes to do everything and the results are much better than you with the jigsaw out. Once you get the top delivered you can cut curves out with a jigsaw.
     
  14. Apr 14, 2009 at 7:08 AM
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    fletch aka

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    :eek:
     
  15. Apr 14, 2009 at 7:32 AM
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    longbow

    longbow I see you now..................

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    I used a thick sheet of alum., but that was some years ago. To cut down on the shine I took an orbit sander with 80 grit, and did a jewel patteren on it. Held up for many many years, when I started working on guns I build a solid 3" thick 8' long, 30" wide red oak table top. Soaked it in linseed oil for a week. Would take serous hits with no worries.
     
  16. Apr 14, 2009 at 7:37 AM
    #16
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    My last bench, I just used some heavy gauge sheet metal, and some 3M Super 90 adhesive...worked well.
     
  17. Apr 14, 2009 at 11:05 AM
    #17
    Hotdog

    Hotdog My hair is all natural Moderator

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    the thought of having a metal edge exposed on the front of the workbench gives me the shivers just thinking about it. I'd be the guy that slices open my stomach and spills my guts all over my tools. :eek:
     
  18. Apr 14, 2009 at 1:02 PM
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    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    LMAO!!!! I used some rubber molding to cover the sides. I had a small lip of rubber going over the sheet metal. Worked for head bumpage, and keeping things from rolling off of the table. One thing to consider, though, is becarfull when working with electronics that have exposed leads on a table with a steel top. I never cut or bumped my body in a bad way, but I did manage to spot weld a metal ruler to my table, and I somehow started a small fire.
     
  19. Apr 14, 2009 at 1:50 PM
    #19
    Pster

    Pster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    In my case, the steel would be on top of MDF and I would buff edges.....radius corners.....grit polished for a nice swirl and then clearcoated.
     
  20. Apr 22, 2009 at 5:57 PM
    #20
    Pster

    Pster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I am now thinking about covering the bench with vinyl garage floor tiles. The benchtop is 24" deep, so 12"x12" tiles would work. Has anyone done this?
     

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