Long Travel BS Thread

I figured the edit was better, and its unclassy to joke about someone being deceased. Plus you guys are too fast for me I guess.

Search this thread and you shall see. Just bc I dont live in Cali doesn't mean I dont know anything.

 

Im glad we established you as the know all LT master....and completely skipped over my relavant question. now do you guys think if I run a 3" c/o and bypass up front will I have to relocate anything in the engine bay on my 2nd gen?

 

10" or 12" Can a 3" c/o fit inside your UCAs? J-arms will give you way more room

 

you will need to get very creative but you can make it work

 

I never said I was LT master, read my post again. And it depends on the length of your coilover. Are you going 10" for dual rates or just a 3" dia c/o? There probably isnt room for the 3" because a 2.5" is damn near up against the tie rod already.

If you go longer on the c/o you are looking at a battery relo at a minimum, if you want to use all your travel.

 

Fixed for other viewers so they can comprehend it.

 

Yes pretty much everything except for the master cylinder

 

Thanks! (See how much simpler it can be when the OP doesnt get butt hurt over someone fixing ther grammar?)

 

12" we are already making buckets for 12" c/o's. I want to stay with the front kit for now... center mount might be in my future so a whole custom front kit would be made...so is 3" c/o's too big for the bolt on kit?

 

Depending on what/how you do your fenderwells when you're done, the master and ecu/fuse box can remain, just mount the fusebox a little higher. The height of the battery is what makes it not fit.

 

Fuck you

 

How much simpler would it have been if nobody would have bitched about grammar in the first place?

 

I would say yes.

 

Hass runs a 3.0 12" on his race truck thats the same kit if im not mistaken

 

A 3" C/O would be overkill for a 2nd Gen. If you feel the need/want you could run a 2.5" C/O with a 3" Triple Bypass.

You'll probably have to relocate the ABS Module on the Passenger side on the driver-side you could move the battery to the bed then move the fuse panel (and whatever else needs to be moved) to the former location of the battery and then you should have all the room you'll need

Look through (if you haven't already done so) RJ's, Rob's (Bluetaco80) and if you can find some pics of Vi's build would all be good references for what you want to do.

Are you planning on running a 12" or 10" C/O?

Isn't Hass's race truck a 1st Gen unless there's another one

 

I guess it depends on the kit, and on the c/o. If the lower mount is extended drastically it could clear the TR.

 

12" thanks ill look at their builds. why is 3" c/o over kill if you dont mind me asking? weight? fully loaded race ready a 2nd gen truck can wiegh roughly 6k lbs

 

If you are running a bypass, the only thing the coilover is there for is to hold the weight of the truck. All the rest of the tuning is done through that bypass so go overkill in that department. In that situation 3.0 coilover is overkill because the only major difference is the price of 3.5" coils compared to 3.0" coils as well as initial shock cost.

 

If you have a big 3.0 triple bypass, then you'd run most of the valving in there, and just use the coilover as a coil carrier more or less, and there is no need for a 3.0" coil carrier.

 

ok now can i run say a 3.5" bypass with a 2.5" c/o. with that logic id be golden right?