Ask a Plumber.

that pipe may be too small to run a camera down, you said the house is on a slab? So no basement to look in for a prv, guess it's time to dig up the main, I would start at the house and work back towards the meter for three or four feet, if it's not there then i would do the same from the meter towards the house, if that's not it, then dig the whole damn thing up. Hope to god it isn't buried in the slab, shouldn't be though.

 

It wouldn't surprise me if it was in the slab. The builder of the subdivision did things half a$$ed. The neighbors I've talked to have had found things that weren't properly done over the years.

 

So I plan to replace the connections for the water heater with braided stainless hose connections. Looks like I can get either FPT x FPT or MPT x FPT. I know the heater will have MPT but what about the other end? Is there a standard to use on the water line connection side or does it not matter? I'm replacing the adapters (not trying to guess what I have), just want to know if there's a standard at all.

 

should just be a 3/4 inch male adapter on the other end as well

 

I have seen them buried as well after 20 years of plumbing you have kind of seen it all but usually when its buried its really close the meter

 

I saw this thread and went

My dad wanted me to ask my friend how to fix this issue.(sorry pic is sideways...jelly bean android still has bugs on the S2

Problem is the original pipe comes out of the wall at an angle, not straight. so connect the sink drain the to wall is a bit more tricky...we aren't sure if we should just cut off the pvc and try to make it come straight out..or just figure out how to connect it the way it is..2 90s and a straight piece?...but i see clogging issues if we do that..need suggestions from plumbing gurus

 

yes you can cut it and make it come out straight. just have to cut as close to the back side of the angle fitting as possible then go buy a 1 1/2 inch fitting with male threads on it and glue in on and you can push that into there and use the nut you have on that chrome plated brass pipe to screw on to the new adapter

 

yep that^^^^

 

I recently changed out my price pfister valves in one of my rental units.(tub/shower) They come with new seats of course and I installed them. They look to be brass but a guy I know is trying to tell me steel seats are better. Is their any truth to this. We do have hard water so I dont know if that makes a difference?

Thanks

 

If ya can find monel,then get it. Brass seats won't last long,but they'll work.

 

Thanks


http://compare.ebay.com/like/270930939080?_lwgsi=y&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

 

I was reading Price Pfister's info on their seats they claim they are steel seats with a brass finish. Who knows? Going to order some steel bibb seats

 

Vice foster never ceases to amaze me.I usually only find they're stuff at home depot.
I did install they're Roman tub valve in my bathroom cuz it saved me a few hundred bucks. Was still the old delta design.

 

I'm preparing to replace my 100 year old galvanized with copper (3/4" in this instance). I want to install the copper up in my floor joists (2" x 8").

My plumber says to drill a 1" hole 5 1/4" down from the top of the joist. Assuming the hole is 1" and 5 1/4" down, this will leave me with 1 3/4" of solid wood under the joist. Actual size of the joist is 1 1/2" x 7 1/2".

Does this sound about right?
Thanks

 

No comments? That could make sense

 

I'm putting in a new water heater soon. I have a permit and will be required to do a rough-in and final inspection. My plumber will do the gas and vent work. I'll do the water lines and dedicated 15 amp service for the new direct vent water heater.

I'm wondering about these flexible copper and gas lines that attach directly to the water heater. My friends like them, as it makes final hookup a lot easier.

But that seems to me to create a weak link and that it is better to run straight pipe to the water heater? Copper will be used with unions. What are your thoughts on this?

Thanks so much

 

flex is fine....
better in most locations
if something moves it will not break your gas lines.....
other wise you would have alot of hard piping to do to make it seismic proof

 

sounds about right as the load is directed at the top of said joist
might want to ask a real carpenter "not oz" just to double check

 

Makes sense, thanks!

 

As you recall I put in a new 1" copper water main last spring. My water meter is a 3/4" by 5/8". I need to run new copper from my main to the new water heater.
It has been suggested that using 3/4" copper is fine. My branches will attach during this run. I'm curious what you think about this, and if I should run this main branch as 1" copper instead?

I know the meter will limit the flow to some degree. I've read that a 3/4" trunk line can supply three 1/2" branches.