2009 Taco won't start, no codes, cranks

Well guys, there seems to be a ghost in my engine. I managed to get it started after disconnecting the battery. The system seems to reset itself temporarily but every now and again it will do the same thing. The dealership said the only codes showing up in the history are my TPMS (don't have sensors anymore) and passenger side airbag. They couldn't explain the rest.

This has been frustrating to say the least and it's basically a waiting game as to when it decides to do it again. Until someone can figure out what's going on I have the pleasure of having to disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it to get my truck started when it's being difficult.

 

Seems to me you need a second opinion.

 

Happened again this morning. Took a clip after a couple attempts. Maybe someone can hear something or think of an issue I didn't know about or think of.


http://youtu.be/hlf9C3EpEbI

 

my truck is doing the exact same thing... http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/234655-no-spark.html

...this thread helped me tho because when you put a key in my theft lift still flashes. I got a couple extra keys so will see what come of it. Battery disconnect didnt help it either.

Ill be sure to watch this thread and see what you find out.

 

you tried a main relay? #13 EFI Relay #14 fuel pump relay
relay #15 and 16 should be the same 4 prong relay.try swaping #13 to #15 and #14 to #16.

 

Not today, I had to leave the truck at camp to get to work. I'm hoping to go out there at lunch. I'll look it over then. If not it'll have to wait until 5.

 

sorry your having so much trouble,just let us know what happens

 

I didnt have a different key at the time. I went to Toyota cause non of my Chrysler scanners work and the kid there said if you leave the key in for 2 hours or even an hour sometimes it will lock out. There was a code for the immobilizer be set or whatever so I'll be keeping an extra key in my glove box incase this happens again.

 

For one, when you disconnected the battery, any codes stored went away. Loss of power will reset the ECM, but that includes erasing any codes. The video does reveal a lot of information. I would rule out fuel and spark. The engine does appear to die from lack of fuel, so I am suspecting possibly a theft system failure. Have you tried taking out the fuel pump relay, then running a FUSED jumper across the contacts to turn on the pump manually? I would suggest that as just a general test to see if fuel pressure loss is a result of the relay being turned off. It is a simple test to perform. Key off, install jumper, key-on and start truck.

I take this back. according to diagnostics from Toyota, the ECM will shut off fuel AND spark, so this test will not work on THIS vehicle. A fuel pressure gauge can watch your fuel pressure to see if it is dropping off. The video still has me thinking theft system, as it does exactly what will happen if your immobilizer system thinks there is a theft, or a system failure.


System function:
When the transponder key ECU detects the unlock warning switch is on, the ECU provides current to the transponder key coil and produces a faint electric wave. A transponder chip in the key grip receives the wave and outputs a key ID code signal. The key coil receives the signal, amplifies it and sends it to the Immobilizer ECU. if the code matches what is stored, the ECU turns off the security indicator and when the key is turned the engine will operate as designed. If the code does not match, the engine will start, but stall when fuel and spark are disabled.

 

By the way, WalMart sells transponder keys now for many makes and models. I have saved some decent money for keys from them for customers.

 

Crank Sensor? Starter? Did you look into those?

 

ehh im gonna say its a loose wire in the junction block

 

Wouldn't be a starter if the engine cranks, starts, then stalls. As for crank sensor, possible, but unlikely considering what is happening.

 

I got the truck started after it had done that to me without disconnecting the battery. Code(s) still should have been in there by the time I brought it in to the dealers. Your last paragraph would be a valid explanation as to what's happening. What would be the fix to this issue (without replacing the key)?.

I will double check this in the morning. It's raining outside and I'm completely drained from my day.




Truck started fine at lunch when I came to get it... this has not been a pleasant experience

 

I wouldn't go that far


haha

 

The only thing that we possibly know, is that there is a failure in the Immobilizer system. The fault could lie with the key, wiring, or other Immobilizer components. Most common failure is the key(and the cheapest to try) if I were to just take a stab at it. I would be willing to bet that the dealership was looking for an engine issue, and probably never checked the immobilizer for a code. Sometimes a non-active code will not trigger a PCM code for Immobilizer system fault.

 

I had run the engine codes up at site and specified to look elsewhere for codes.

 

The immobilizer system does not prevent cranking. Even with an incorrect key, the engine itself will still crank. What are you referring to when you say "intake sensor" There is no such sensor, so you should clarify what sensor you are indicating. If you mean the intake temperature sensor, then again, it would not cause this problem. Even a disconnected or totally failed intake temp sensor would not cause the engine to stall out.
The engine starting up then dying is EXACTLY what will happen if an immobilizer system has failed, or is failing.

 

sorry, I don't understand what you are trying to say here. please clarify.

 

This^^^

I work at a remote site. I was able to run engine codes here and specify to the dealership that they had been run without finding anything so I wanted them to look elsewhere for possible issues.