N/A vs TRD S/C

I always thought the best bang for your buck as only way to get noticeable performance increase was through boost. But after searching extensively it seems you can get around 35-40 more rwhp with intake, headers, exhaust, and URD maf cal. This would set me back around $1200 total. A TRD charger gets you 63 rwhp, I think?? And that would prob run $4,200 before taxes. I'd be pretty happy with 35-40 more hp for just over a grand.

 

+1

Years ago Hot Rod Magazine did a build up of a Chevy 454 crate motor. I don't remember the details of what parts gave what figures but the gist of it was that with typical bolt on parts a lot of the HP gains came at the cost of low end torque. It wasn't until they added a supercharger that they had significant gains in both HP and torque.

 

I was worried about the low end power loss, Gadget from URD says that's bs, I've also pm'ed some members with those mods who said they increased power across the rpm range. My main goal is to increase power above 3k. I found dyno's of similar set ups in the n/a dyno thread.

 

Im not going to argue that bolt on mods do nothing since its not true, but the effectiveness of a lot of them are what I question.

A lot of people will claim "seat of the pants" gains when changing fuel octane. They'll claim seat of the pants gains when they install an expensive air filter in the stock air box. They'll claim seat of the pants gains when they install a louder exhaust and/or fuzzy dice on the mirror. Truth is, air pressure also changes performance in a N/A engine and you never read people commenting on seat of the pants gains on cold days vs hot days.

URD makes money by selling you stuff... Keep that in mind whenever a vendor is giving you product/performance advice. My dad was a mechanic that built engines for drag cars in addition to owning his own garage. He had this stupid plastic thing on his shop counter that improved fuel mileage when attached to the fuel system. When asked, it worked great. When you opened the hood of his daily driver there was no such modification in place because it didn't do jack shit.

I've done a lot of them when I was younger and truthfully all of them were disappointing from a performance perspective. My Dad told me but I wasn't prepared to listen. The changes were generally subtle and without a dyno I'd guess that the actual increases after parasitic losses were minimal. My truck (Chevy 1/2 ton with 350ci engine, aftermarket intake, ignition, headers, cats and exhaust) sounded awesome, but in the end it didn't pull off the line any harder or hit top end significantly quicker than stock. Without modifying the actual engine it wasn't tuned to reap the benefits of the bolt on mods that I'd performed.

In the end the decision is up to you. Honestly, I'm planning on doing most of those mods just to have a meaner sounding truck, but I don't really expect much in the way of actual performance.

 

Op, half of these statements about "losing low end" or "only in top end", are not the whole truths.

That is why I started this thread. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/pe...n-power-gains-dynos-w-mods-4.html#post5554805


Let the dyno's with the mods show the true facts and gains. :top:

Still needs more dyno's from manual trucks with mods such as the URD Y-pipe. That on Lucario Runner's 4Runner has a 30 HP difference at the end of his power band, with just swapping that component in. From the mid range to the end. Better flowing components equals better efficiency which frees up power.

 

When I look at the dyno sheet I see a drop in performance beginning at 3700rpm and that the sheet has been scaled to hide performance below ~3300rpm.

I also see that the performance gains were insignificant below 4800rpm and that most of the significant gains happened after the engine's redline.



Edit: screwed up in Tapatalk and deleted part of the post. Edited to put the dyno sheet back in.

 

That is an automatic. It isn't scaled to "hide" anything. The reason the graph starts so high, is because you cannot start the pull any lower in rpm, on an auto. It won't work. It will shift gears, and jerk very roughly on the dyno.

Also, there is no drop in performance on that graph at all. Just two different starting rpms.

Also, another point to add, is that the tune on this dyno versus the prior with the factory Y-pipe, had 3 degrees less timing in it. Due to a slight problem we found. Given that, it still made that huge gain with the URD y-pipe.

Now when we put that timing back in, the wtq would easily be over 300. The whp would be near 260.

 

Edit: never mind. I'll let the chart speak for itself.

 

What is the loss you are referring to, ScreamingTaco? It is clear that you don't quite understand how the dyno works, and that you are understanding that you cannot see any data prior to 3k rpms when you do a dyno on these automatic transmissions. The graph starts at that rpm. It doesn't show anything before. Those steep lines at the start of the graph are due to being at minimal throttle position, then going to WOT, right after the record button is pressed.

Also, I forgot to address the second part of your comment about the redline. His redline is set to 6200 rpms. That line is just for a point of reference at that specific rpm. If you follow it fully to the end of his redline, then there is even a larger gap before and after the y-pipe. Very good gains for the 1GR.

You want to increase the whole powerband? From idle on? Then replace heavy rotating components with their lighter equivalents.

Haha. Well played. Lol

 

When doing a dyno pull, you never press the 'Start' button until after the vehicle is already rolling in the proper gear at the proper rpm. Thus the pedal will never be at WOT until after the 'Start' button is pressed. The throttle will be at a small percentage of open for a brief period, during the sample.

 

It's an N/A 4Runner going 14.5 in the quarter mile, with a 2.0 60' time. There's obviously big gains in both low end and top end, regardless of what you think the dyno says.

 

Ahh yes. lol. Yeah. I got confused about what you were talking about. The ,'I am telling you' is meant to be plural. I need to correct that.

I would put money down, that the FJ dyno was a manual though. Since its starting rpm is so low.

 

Yes sir. I think his fastest time was actually a 14.3. On factory sized tires and one wheel peel. One tenth of a second behind an heavily modded N/A XRunner on drag slicks.

 

I used to eat those guys up with my 4200 lb. N/A Charger

 

Haha. Might just squeeze past..... lol

 

I don't doubt it. For a 4R, that is a really good time. For an XR......it is as well, but not when in the same field as other 'sports' vehicles.

 

Nothing in the 11's. That is for sure.

 

I was referring to the GTO

Sure - but my point was really that a properly set up N/A vehicle can run with the FI crowd in some cases.

Here's a shakedown run

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5RBrQm5GAI&feature=player_embedded