Long Travel BS Thread

I run glassworks without lt. Just mid travel. Im debating weather i want to go.upbto 35s or not. Im pretty sure youll need glass to fit them or chop the shit outa your fenders.

 

35's are over rated, all about 37's

 

35's rock, i run the 2.5" trailer products fiber glass and only rub flexing at full lock and i still have room to trim the body mount back

 

just be cautious about buying glassworks... lots of people have had a hell of a time getting tim to ship their fenders/bedsides. we're talking like 3-4 months and shady email communication

i've bought from glassworks twice and both times everything went great, but both times i drove down to the shop and picked up my parts....

 

Get a small flare/buldge. you dont need to go with a 4 or 6" you can go with a 2.5" like trailer products. and no it wont make you look like a douche if you keep it to a size you need.

 

http://www.off-roadfiberglass.com/offroad/tactoy.htm

 

8-900!? That much!?

 

here they are with my big 35's

 

Wow. I feel lucky. I got my fronts for 100 painted and ima buy some new hanneman rears for 300. Im gunna sand off that ugly lip tho. Lol

 

If it is really that bad I can cut out a piece of poly or delrin and stick it between there. I've been in a few trucks that are mounted direct with no rubber or bushings and, while the vibrations are there, it wasnt bad and they never had issues.

 

4.5 backspacing and -12 offset. I have a aal in the rear and have yet to push it but I imagine these fender flares are coming off

 

4.75" back spacing and 1.25" spacers. Also a BFH and sawsal lol

As for the rear I'm surprised I haven't pulled the fender off yet lol

 

WTF!!!! Pics please

 

who cares about the vibration, I'd be more worries about cracking your aluminium block
Your frame is going to want to twist when you're offroading, it's going to twist at you motor mounts and have no give, something is going to have to flex, might me where the motor mount connects to the frame, might be your engine block, who knows
Why not use a poly bushing in there and be safe?

 

cant agree more. to me the only exception is a tube chassis with a bellhousing plate

 

Agreed, the block does not have nearly enough mounting points to take a stress like that. I have seen steel blocks rip out from solid motor mounts. Can imagine doing it on a aluminum block

 

That is a good point. We'll make some delrin to fit between the mounts, have a lot of that stuff laying around. Thanks!

 

Delrin doesn't really have much give to it, poly would work good
I have poly in mine, my headers are 1/2'' from the frame and never hit

 

ouch. i guess they rolled this last weekend on a run from barstow to vegas. no serious injuries

 

would've been a different story if it wasnt caged!