Fox Shox OEM Replacement Issues

just did some measurements to find that the drivers side sits a full half inch lower then the passenger side, and that should be the otherway around, ahh don't you love incompetent people who work on trucks......looks like I need to find someone who actually takes pride in their work and tacomas......ahhh cali looks sweet right about now

 

I held off on removing mine for years, finally after a ton of people here telling me to remove, and the links squeaking, I did. Drove on mountain roads and gave it hell to see how scary it would be, it's fine Drives better actually.

Plus your clunk will be gone, cranking the coilovers to match the back was not the problem. Tis sway bar.

 

that might have somthing to do with the bottoming out "clunk" as the sway bar is far enough away and not touching the coilover it seems. Might be interesting to take it off just the same to check that feel out.

Any other thoughts guys, this is helpful and I appreciate it. Might look to take a leaf out of the rear pack aswell.....thanks for the idea Tim

 

Tis a good idea Namyo, I think I might take your advice this very weekend.

 

Shouldn't have to take a leaf out, I run the expo pack, and ride with locals that do also with no added weight in the rear end. No problem, just need the correct length shock for them.

Do some flexing in the yard and check out the seen Sway bar or the UCA may be making contact with the coilovers when flexed, double check the rear shock length as well with how far the wheel drops.

 

How much fuel is in your tank?

 

21 gallons soo that might have something to do with it, but then again she is almost on empty and is lower on the drivers side i.e. gas tank side

 

Yeah the springs should be DS and PS specific or left and right. Post the numbers on the springs and we can tell you.

 

Are we talking to leaf springs or the coils?

 

I feel like that is very possible as well because of the ride height and the geometry being off. We shall see when I back the coils down a bit and see how the geometry of the front suspension changes.

 

The shocks might not have any nitrogen in them? My Icons at 2.5-3" ride damn good and CV's look stock. Something's binding (ball joints, cv's or sway bar) or the shocks need a charge!

Just saw you have TC uppers and lowers, was everything greased and installed right? Make sure EVERYTHING's torqued to spec too! You should be fine w/o a sway bar with full mid-travel like that!

 

Leaf that's what's you are referring to right about the driverside being lower?

 

no I mean the coilovers are cranked a little higher up on the driver side to account for the gas tank and drivers weight. Is this just a rumor that you should crank the driverside a little higher?

 

I'm starting to think that I got shafted with the length of these shox. After adjusting the ride height down a bit the clunk has disapated because of the fact that this set of coilovers have a very small amount of travel to begin with.

How many inches of "up" travel are you guys riding on? I literally had less then an inch at 1 1/2 inches of thread showing. Its insane ti think that people wanting to gain 2.5 to 3 inches of lift out of these are sacrificing bottoming the shock out to achieve height. There has to be a longer shaft and more equal travel for "up" and "droop".

I will post pictures of what I'm dealing with in the morning. Thanks guys for helping out, i appreciate you staying with me on this thread and offering your $.02

 

My driverside front is higher.

 

If its stiff why don't you go with a softer spring? I don't know what spring rate it comes stock but you might look into it. adjusting the ride height really shouldn't affect the stiffness.

 

The heavier side is the drivers side with the battery, driver and gas tank being on that side......sounds like you got OEM replacement shocks instead of the ext travel ones. Ext travel only give you an inch of travel but that's about the best you can do. Every bit of lift you get comes from the down travel so youl lwant the least amount of lift pssible....the manufacture of the shock usually has them at the ideal performance setting which is usully 2" of lift. That gives 2" of downtravel or 3" if you have the ext version. You should be able to have them converted without buying new shocks.

 

Yeah this was my fear, I have a feeling that they are OEM replacement and not extended travel. I wonder if fox would be down with helping out and converting them as part of a rebuild perhaps.

 

Hey I know this thread is a million years old, but I'm curious to find out what your solution was. I have exactly the same situation. Fox 2.5's in front, ran em with 1" of lift for ever and they are great. Just upgraded to fresh 285 MT-R's and needed a bit more lift to clear the tires, bumped the foxes up to 2.75 and now it rides like dog shit. Bouncy, clunking all over the place, UCA almost maxed out sitting still... Frustration!

I need a bit of lift to clear the tires, but don't want it to ride like a f-Ing low rider mini truck!

Any solution to your issues?

 

They may need a rebuild but most likely what your feeling is the lack of down travel? They're already extended to the point of only having 1.25" left before they're over extending. You could just trim up where it rubs and keep the lift low......think of a trophy truck with a lower center of gravity and big ass tires that fully stuff.

Could be a combination due to the tires, heavier compound/tire pressure, etc?