The 2.7L Single Cab Thread

Whats the size for a shift knob (MT) on a 09 2.7L single cab? I keep getting mixed answers.

 

threads are 12x1.25 for the 5 speed

heres my blox racing 1lb 5speed knob, def improves shifting on this trans

 

Thanks for your help, also dope looking shift knob.

 

No prob, and thanks man love it, if u go weighted u won't be dissapointed

 

I love the way the shells make the RCs look like little 4 runners!

 

Looks good. What brand are the front and back bumper guards?

 

Lots of nice looking trucks in this thread!

 

front is avid off-road. rear is by wagner?..it sucks. but only reason i got it was to run the rev/aux lights off it.

 

Have a problem boys, my battery light comes on and off on occaision, sometimes it stays on and other times the airbag light comes on with the battery light coming on and off, thought it was my alternator, but I'm thinkin now electrical, new battery in it.

 

Sold the camper shell this weekend, so here's a fresh pic.

 

^ nice!!!

 

#singlecabproblems

 

I have the same problem with my 2012 4x4 access cab. 1st to 2nd is a nightmare. And, like you, I have to go the full 3K rpm to make it smooth or I get the same dreaded 'clank.' Another remedy has been full extension of the clutch all the way to the floorboard. Seems dumb for a new truck but, it seems to work...Another member advised me a few months ago to try changing out the transmission fluid with Redline brand. I haven't had the chance to yet....I have less than 4100 miles on mine and it is 'babied' like crazy. Will try the new fluid as I get the time. But, to maybe make you feel better, over time the issue seems to either smooth itself out or you're just getting used to the quirks of the clutch.....Happy driving buddy...

 

I have 33k on mine and I run redline mt90 still get the 2nd gear clank gotta try pedal to floor.

 

Another member here posted it may be a relation to the drive by wire system and how the ECU responds to the input from the pedal,

I think they are onto something because I have found I can get a pretty smooth shift from first to second no matter cold or warmed up and wether or not I am above 3,000 RPM's is to just accelerate some and then shift to second, in other words even if I am cruising slowly I can still apply a tad more gas pedal right before the clutch pedal is depressed and I swear the shift is smoother,

Think of it this way, if you ever had to drive a car with a failed hydraulic clutch master or slave cylinder, you can but the key is when you up shift you know when the RPM's match the lever with a little pressure into the next gear and it will "drop" into gear, however when you have to downshift you have to rev the engine up high enough and then as the RPM's drop you can get it into the next lower gear, not the easiest task but it saves tow bill for sure! And there is no grinding as long as the revs match,

I think that's what's going on, If the transmission is designed to have a shift point around 3k RPM's then when we shift below that we are asking the syncros to do I guess a lot harder job than they can,

The real question is to find out what parts Toyota does replace when a repair like this is done under warranty, that's the question, are they replacing clutches, or internal parts in e tranny?

 

Does anyone know if the SR5 Regular cab came with a leather shift knob? I'm trying to track one down as I don't like the rubber dildo shifter on there now. I don't mind going to the V6 style one, but if there was one made with the 5 speed shift pattern on it, I guess it would be less confusing if I had to have someone else drive my truck.

 

Same here with 38,000 miles, except that I always put the pedal to the floor. Doesn't help.

Yes, I think this is true. It takes a lot of concentration to hit it just right. I don't like the DBW system in this vehicle. It causes the rev hang between 4th & 5th gears, and engine-braking seems to be non-existent.

 

Gonna try to reset the computer when u get my truck back from the dealer. I push the pedal down almost to the floor but I never accualy hit the floor with it except startup... She slides into every gear with ease except second unless over 3k

 

UPDATE, i Brought my truck to the dealer last week because my throwout bearing was chirping, they were gonna replace that under warranty, so wile they had the trans out i said if i pay for a new clutch and pressure plate could u put that in for me,( i was having issues with it slipping on me taking off on hills and it changing engagement points and overall feeling shitty)So long story short they said yea but would charge me an hr for labor. wile there i made sure to order the type B Asain cover # 31210-26172 and the 60500 disk.( i didn't know what my truck had at the time), well i go pick my truck up today and wow it feels sooo much different, the clutch is awesome i actually love my truck now there is no comparison. The new clutch is alot easier to push down grabs better and theres no weird jerking slipping anymore. I'm very glad i asked to switch my clutch out because yes Toyota is still using SHITTY ASS ******LUK******* clutches even on the newer models, i had a luk and i have a 2010, like i said im super happy about how my truck drives, it feels like a totally different transmission. hears some pics of the clutch that came out. PS: anyone in NJ and wants there t/o bearing replaced use gateway Toyota in toms river, they done like 4 of them now and they know what there doing! very helpful and very knowledgeable.