TPMS light.

Titties Provide More Solutions
to your wheel problems....

 

Tits prevent more solution

 

To Put Men Straight...
In line when your TPMS is broken.

 

2007 - 2011 you have to apply a logic-high instead of a ground.

Some have applied +12 straight from the ECU, but I'd feel more comfortable running it through a 10k resistor.

 

Those Potatoes May Sag

 

Better watch out, she's developing the taco lean, caused by severe weight imbalance.

 

FLBP - definitely.

 

I somehow LIKE TPMS now....

 

ummm. what we taking about agin? they big. a little to big for my liking tho. but they nice.


edit: i’m a C TPMS man.

 

I just swapped out my steelies for TRD off road alloys. The TPMS didn't fit (I knew they wouldn't) and the tire store wouldn't flip them 180. Oh well. I have the light on all the time which actually doesn't bother me that much but I'd still like to get rid of it. Not sure if building a home made pipe bomb is the safest solution for me though.

The boobs? WAY too big. Unless of course you like boobs that fall down to the knees. I'm a butt guy.

 

your not kidding brother- thats a face full

 

I think those need to be glazed !!

Just put some black electrician's tape over the light..

 

Rich, can you enlighten me more on this train of thought, I have my 2012 RC and would love to disable the system and then when needed turn it back on easily, I want M/T tires on my steelies and nicer highway tires on a set of 17" wheels, but I want to keep the sensors in my steels.

 

TPMS = Totaly Pumped Mammarie'S

 

I don't know if the 2012 is the same as the earlier years. I'd hate to recommend a specific procedure before someone has hashed it out and end up with you blowing your ECU.

But....

On the first couple of years, all you had to do was cut a blue wire behind the passenger kick panel and ground it. This killed the light.
There was a more complex and more "proper" mod that actually disabled the TPMS controller itself, but you still had to ground the wire to kill the light.

In 2007 or 2008, Toyota modified the circuit, and grounding the wire stopped working.
Again, there is a procedure to disable the controller, but the light can be quenched by applying a "logic high" or +5v to the blue wire.
Some people have applied a full 12v directly from their ECU's power connection, but as I mentioned, I'm not comfortable supplying a non-current-regulated +12vdc to a logic circuit. I'd be okay with the +12v, as long as it's running through a 10k resistor to limit current to no more than 1.2ma.

The writeups for both years are here on TW.
I think there's a link to them in the "cheap/free mods" thread.

Attempt at your own risk on your 2012, and do understand that there are legal issues with disabling the system, and there very well may be warranty issues should you have a failure or partial failure of the ECU.

Honestly... I lived with mine for 8 months.
A week after I fixed it, I had a legitimate light. Picked up a nail and the light came on as designed when the tire hit 10psi below the other 3.
It was a slow leak, had it not been for the light, I would have been late for work the next day.

 

I had the same problem with my sensors. I just dismounted the spare tire and put all 4 sensors in the spare. bumped it up to 40 PSI and was good to go. No more tire light. Im not ever going to use it bc I have 35's but even with 33's if use it u would still be ok.

 

I just grounded the blue wire on my 06 Truck. Very simple. Took me a while to find the right blue wire. I just didn't want to be bothered by a flashing light later down the road. I always check my air pressure with a gauge. I leave my spare at home. Now was a good time to do since this subject came up again.

 

Thanks man, I'll dig in some more and see what I can come up with,

 

TPMS for that photo is Touching the Primary Mammory System or Totally Pay to Motorboat those Sweatercows