Warped 2 sets of OEM rotors, should go to slotted??

Its not outside the realm of possibility - but that should be eating pads and not the rotors. Thats why i was asking about "habits" with the truck. Something as simple as taking it thru a car wash with hot brakes is far more destructive to the rotors then stop/go.

I too replace my rotors vs having them cut (For me, its a simplicity of replacement vs aggravation of having them cut... plus it usually only adds 20-30$ to the cost)


one thing, an argument could be made for a sticking piston - that would cause it to deflect in an unusual direction, giving you the ability to warp them. but i'd classify that as an extreme and utilize you eyeballs during a visual inspection of the pads/calipers to make that type of determination (one pad eaten and the other pad not-so-much? bingo)

 

Sure you don't.........in a perfect world

pretty sure I know what I'm talking about.

you re-build any yet? or just read about it? I know you didn't read the link I posted that tells you exactly why you need to adjust them or maybe you just ignored it.



you also never have to replace the cylinder......in a perfect world.



also brakes don't ever look like this..........in a perfect world.





I don't even know why I wear my seat belt, because I drive great and never crash


Like I said adjust the rear brakes.

 

Ugh.... Warped Rotors... You need to properly bed your brakes when you replace them. Very unlikely that you truely warped your rotors and more likely that you are getting uneven pad / rotor wear due to improperly bedded brakes. PLEASE READ THIS ARTICLE.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

 

If your rotors are so warped that you're taking off more than a couple thousandths of an inch off then they should probably be replaced anyway. Nominal to trash is fairly large on most rotors, I think a second gen is around 80 thounsandths. But if you want to replace them go for it.

And I would adjust the drums manually, just because they are 'auto adjust' doesn't mean brake dust doesn't sit on that cylinder and eventually turn into a wedge.

Beat me to it^^^ Holy hell that's a lot of paste, Boyd!

 

Most warped rotors are caused by people either over tightening the wheel lug nuts or braking hard and hitting water.

I take my car on the track from time to time, it has OEM rotors with a slightly more aggressive pad. You brake HARD on the track, so much so that in extreme cases you can actually boil your brake fluid. This is far more stress that stop/go traffic will ever produce.

Point is there is some other reason your rotors are warping, or there is some other symptom that is being misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.

As far as turning your rotors, I've turned them on cars for years and never had an issue. I do notice that on newer cars there is less material to start with compared to a late '60's or 70's car. So replacing them is far more common.

 

Where's the best place to get hawk pads and rotors for a good price?

 

Most warped rotors are due to the way wheels/lug nuts are installed, if your lug nuts are run up with an impact wrench and the first one is run up to full torque you have just warped your rotors. Lug nuts need to br torqued gradually, snug the first one a bit say the top one then go to the bottom one and snug that, and gradually work your way around the wheel

 

#1- make sure the lug nuts are not overtorqued.
I would recommend going with Akebono ACT series pads. Akebono supplies OEM pads for General Motors, Ford Motor Company, Chrysler, Honda, Toyota, Mitsubishi Motors, Mazda, Nissan, Subaru and Isuzu. I have been running these pads on my truck for several years and never had a squeak, and they really cut down on the brake dust...just my .02

 

Yup, add me to the list of something else going on. I know when my parents take a trip to their time-share in Virginia, they often come back with brake issues. First time we went, I let my dad drive the wife's van once. After smelling the brakes burn all the way to our destination, I took over, and no more burning brakes. Whether it's driving habits, adjustment issues, or what I couldn't say, but if you've gone through two sets, something else is going on.

As for the car wash theory, I've never heard of that. I wash my truck a couple of times a week because I have my business logo on the side. I've only got 10k km so far, so maybe that's not enough to have issues, but I haven't had so much as a shiver from my brakes.

 

I have the same problem, warped OE rotors

never warped a set in over 30 years of driving, and I've always torqued the lug nuts.

So, on Monday I will call my Dealer and get a quote for rotors/pads, but assuming the world hasn't changed much, the dealer's quote will be astronomical

So, looking at RockAuto there are MANY different options (Raybestos, Wagner, Centric) for rotors and more options for pads. Normally, I would go for top end rotors and cheap pads (I usually find cheap pads stop the vehicle faster, but wear at a quick rate)

any suggestions for brands?

btw, Akebono pads are $49 and Wagner are $19, are they THAT much better?

 

Just a tip....if you ride the brakes enough to get your rotors hot and warp.... try letting yourself roll a little at a stop light....ya know...to not put all the pressure in one spot while theyre cooling....and don't stand on the brakes!

 

I don't know.
Is Maker's Mark that much better than Uncle Festus Bourbon?
Is Prime grade beef better than a chunk of stew meat?

Go for the cheap filters too...
I got those tires on the billboard, the ones that say "4 Tires for $400".
I can't tell the difference. They are round, black, have tread and hold air.

 

I've quoted the only worthwhile part of your posting.
The rest is just bitter diatribe

 

Actually, I do know.

 

You mean Toyota didn't do that when they selected the Dunflops and Rugged Fails as OE tires?

I vote change your driving habits. If you do mostly stop-and-go drivng, put the shifter in "4" or even "3" to get engine braking. It also keeps the revs up so you get more responsive acceleration when needed. Only drawback is losing about 1 mpg when driving this way.

Toyota requires measuring brake pad/shoe thickness every 3 years/ 30k. If you do the work at the dealer, it would be a brake service that includes lubricating the calipers and drums, and turning the rotors.
http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/omms/T-MMS-13Tacoma/xhtml/T-MMS-13Tacoma_0001.html?locale=en

 

I warped two sets of rotors before i decided to stop buying the cheap stuff and seriously upgraded. EBC green stuff break pads and Powerslot slotted rotors. 30k miles later still no warping!

 

lmao

 

I warped a set too. Ordered up centric stop-tech drilled and slotted rotors with porterfield racing carbon kevlar pads. Problem solved, and they significantly reduced stopping distance. I bet 60-0 I could beat a stock rig even though I'm on 37's.

 

Slow down Robbie!