What the hell is this cut wire in my engine?

Yeah most use DC.

 

Eh.

Another bridge I'll have to cross when the time comes.

 

To clarify what others have said, it's the secondary ground for your vehicle, meant to provide a more direct ground connection for the vehicle's body (instead of going through the engine using the primary ground wire). The primary ground is the large cable coming off the negative side of the battery. The vehicle will often function just fine without that second, smaller, wire, but it's best to have it connected as intended. It connects to the negative side of the battery as well.

To check your light's wiring, you need a 12v continuity meter or similar. This will check the electrical connections between two points (wherever the probes are held) and beep (or light up) if electricty can flow properly between those two points. Continuity is also a common function found on most multimeters. The likely cheapest continuity testing device is a handheld probe with a light inside,

TEKTON 5862 Universal Chain Oil Filter Wrench

like this one found on Amazon.com.

 

Thanks.

Maybe I'll pick one of those up as I see myself getting into more electronics in the near future.

 

just check power on either side of the switch on and off or just jumper the switch if it lights up then your switch is bad

 

Are you talking about one of those probes that lights up in the presence of current?

If you think it's a bad switch, you could bypass it. You might need to take the light off the shell to do that and if you're gonna do that, might as well replace it at the same time.

Could be corrosion too. This could be on the contacts for the bulb or on the connection between the truck and shell. Check the connector and make sure the pins are "locked" in the shell-could be a disconnect too.

 

BTW, if you want to be able to do more diagnosis in the future, get a multimeter. Those can help determine voltage as well as resistance. You can also get ones that will do current (with an attachment) and temperature (also, attachment).

They start at $10 or so for a cheap one that will do the trick on up to several hundred bucks.

 

I was hesitant to recommend a multimeter since he seems rather inexperienced with electronics, Ian. A continuity probe will safely handle 99.9% of the tasks (bad wires, bad connections, bad switches, short circuits, blown fuses, blown bulbs, etc) most will likely ever perform on their vehicle. The rare remaining problems are probably best left to someone more experienced with vehicle electronics.

 

Right!

Your meter isn't switchable from AC to DC? Or is this just one of those testers with a light and a couple wires? Just AC and just a certain voltage range if so. Wal Mart sells meters for like $10.

 

Nothing wrong with a continuity probe and it is often the easiest thing to use for simple problems.

 

Yes.

I'll probably just figure it all out when I put on the new LED light bar.

 

I dont know what the cables for but my truck has the exact same cable that goes to nothing. Just hangs there like that, everything works fine so it doesnt worry me

 

Toyota engineered that for a reason I'd suspect.
it's not like it's too difficult to repair...

 

I didn't read through this whole thread so sorry if this was mentioned before...isn't the wire your asking about showned connected to the battery in the 2nd picture?

 

^ I don't know... can't see.

I just spent $4 on a 4ga cable and connected it to the bolt on the body to the negative terminal.

TacoDell, what all is connected to that ground bolt in that third photo of yours?

 

Besides the ground from the battery's negative...
I think there's a ground for the air horn, light harness,
couple relays or something else I can't remember.

I don't like drilling new holes in chit...
so will usually locate a factory bolt to use as a ground.

^ there are better ways... I was just being lazy with it.

 

hey just read some of your posts, (been under weather and in hospital, more cat scans and mri's, i am almost glowing!) I had the same thing with my truck when i got her, anyway, i dont know if you can view the pics in my gallery but 3months ago i needed a new neg battery cable so I just got a new one at advance, i think it was 11.99 with the extra ground cable, it was pretty easy to replace just work it out of the plastic wiring harness and it boltes near the oil pan. now i took a small wirebrush and really cleaned where it bolts in at the oil pan and the old bolt, and worked it back in the plastic harness and put some extra good tape over it in spots, and then hooked the new ground on the side of the truck, she did seem to fire up better than before. hey over time we are all wearing out.

forgive the cheap battery holder, i need to make time to hit some salvage yards now its cooled off to find a toyota one...

 

sorry to hear yer not feeling well...
So... did you figure out what ails you ?

What kind of symptoms are you having ?

Did you do a blood panel ?