Oil Change: 2011 Tacoma TRD V6 4.0L with Oil Cooler

I am about to hit my 25k mark at which point I will be doing my own oil changes. Just did my first home oil change on our 2011 Highlander today....stupid oil filter element style.

With this said, what oil should I use? Is it a good time to switch to full synthetic? I am assuming the dealership used conventional 5w30, correct?

Also, how much oil is needed? I see it calls for 5 quarts, but wouldn't I need more since I also have the oil cooler?

Last question - oil filter. Which oil filter do you use? Fram? Bosch? Napa? Something cool I don't know about?

 

There's a billion threads, but seriously, your best filter is going to be the OEM Toyota filter.
Fram is junk. Bosch and Napa are okay, Purolator is good, Mobil-1 is better but not worth $12.

http://www.partswebsite.com/1sttoyo...tid=10020&subcatid=20099&section=1&type=parts

$88 shipped will get you 20 oil filters.

On oil, you can go to synthetic at any time.
I prefer Mobil-1 5w30, but go by your owners manual for the grade... some engines take 0w20.

Not sure where you're seeing it call for 5 quarts. You'll need to buy 6... a drain/refill with filter is closer to 5.5 quarts on the 2.7. Pretty sure the 4.0 is the same, but just fill it with 5, run to check for leaks, then let it sit for 10 minutes or so and check it. You'll probably need another half quart.

 

this dealer is in my hood. perhaps i could pick up a bunch of filters and save a few shipping dollars. wonder if i can get the same price if i show up at the front door?

 

They are only $11 for three at the local dealerships out here...

 

Ya... dealers aren't normally bad.

If you get one trying to charge $5, find another dealer.
There are two "books" they use for parts. They use full retail when billing out a customer job or OTC sale.
They use the other book for "internal" sales... such as from the parts department to the tech working in the shop.

But more and more dealers are writing OTC sales on the low book.
I have two dealers about 5 and 8 miles from me... one charges high book, the other low.

 

Thanks for the link on the cheap filters, we use them on the Taco, Jeep Wrangler Sahara and the SIL 4Runner...

 

You should get a cut of their profits! You give them tons of free advertising.

 

i agree with rich, go with a brand name filter, or get the one from the dealer. i woildent recommend anything cheap like STP. WIX is probably one of the best. Mobil 1 is great but expensive. if you keep up with the oil changes per the manual, and dont drive like a pissed off teenaged girl, it wont matter if you use conventional or synthetic oil. and dont let some shop talk you into a system flush. it will actually make the engine develop leaks.

now with that last statement im sure someone will get grumpy and try to prove me wrong. so i issue the grumps a challenge... dont flush the system untill your truck has @100,000 miles on it. then go to your local stealer ship or slicked back hair auto repair shop and get it flushed. watch the leaks begin. a good shop will tell you not to do it because of the potential for leaks.

 

and when resetting your maintenance minder you have to be on the trip A screen not the odom like the owners manual says. i believe is for the 2011 and up.

 

I've never even heard of flushing the engine like that. I wouldn't ever do it. Just change the oil regularly.

Agree with the others on here, and I also recommend picking a brand of oil and sticking with it -- don't bounce around to whatever is on sale.

I like synthetic mostly for the added protection on a cold engine. Pick one and stick with it.

As far as filters, go OEM if you can. I get lazy and end up buying one where I get oil, and I like the Bosch ones. I just did a change yesterday, so I visually compared the different brands. Mobil 1 and K&N appear to be the same filter. The STP one looked like it might come apart. I bought a Bosch.

 

If you love your engine, go with Mobil 1.

 

Is the website http://www.partswebsite.com/1sttoyot...n=1&type=parts
supplying Toyota filters?
Bill

 

So which filter? I think I have established I will go with Mobil 1. Also, with the oil cooler, do I need more oil than a truck without the oil cooler?

 

Toyota YZZD3 oil filter (torque the pan drain bolt to 30 Ft lbs...and don't forget the crush washer)

5.5 quarts of oil.

 

Thanks. Made on offer of $45 and it was instantly accepted. Walmart seems to be the cheapest place for the Mobil 1 5W-30 oil, both in 5 quart and 1 quart.

 

I do get a cut of their profits... kinda.

I buy most of my parts from them. Either Titus-Will or Toyota of Dallas.
I'll always price compare the two.

 

The link didn't translate because of the way you copied it, but yes, those are the OEM Toyota/Denso filters. Same filters you would get at the dealership.
I bought 10 for my Taco and 10 for my wife's Rav-4 and the total with shipping was $88.

 

A properly maintained engine will neither need a "flush" nor will it develop leaks after a flush.

This follows the origin of the "don't put synthetic in an old engine" myth.
The synthetic oil itself didn't cause the leaks... the detergents in the early synthetics cleaned out the sludge that remained from years of running the old non-detergent and low-detergent SC, SD, and SE rated oils available prior to 1979.

The leaks were always there, but hidden by the deposits. The engine flush, or conversion to synthetic, cleaned the deposits and resulted in leaks.
Had the engine been maintained with more frequent oil changes or with a higher quality oil, the deposits would not have formed and either the leaks would have been noticed sooner, or the seals would not have dried out and would not have leaked.

 

+1

6 pack normal price is $36, but they occasionally run an "instant" $10 rebate so it's $26 at the register.
Normally limit 3 per customer. Last time they ran this, I went to two different stores and bought 6.

 

Good stuff like normal rich!