clutch again

So about 2 months ago Have replaced my clutch with a urd stage 4 comp clutch... awsome.... now my problems

Big tires lightened fly wheel bad reserch on my part
squeaky TO bearing (I replaced it when i did the cluch)

so im fixing my issues with a urd to bearing and putting in my old flywheel once it gets resurfaced.... is there anything else i should just do because this is gonna be the last time im doing this.... Thanks again guys

 

Anything bump

 

I would like to hear your experience with the URD stage 4 clutch. Why do you like it?

 

Its not as heavy as everyone says... that I find anyway, I run bigger than stock tires so it give it more clamping force... thus less chance of slipping.... I kinda said go big or go home so I did it and no regrets. I haul a little and I play hard so figure may as well get something that will put up with it.

 

I don't believe that you're going to notice much (any?) difference from changing back the flywheel. I suspect that your issue is related more to the clamping force of the clutch than the engine's inertia. You shouldn't be using engine inertia to get the vehicle rolling anyway, you should be using engine output torque.

With the stock clutch, that you say clamps with less force, it will provide for a more controlled slip during engagement rather than just killing the engine off with the vehicle's inertia.

Obviously you do need to rip into it for the bearing, so there's nothing wrong with changing the flywheel while you're in there, however, I don't think it will give you the results you're looking for. For that, you'll need a more stock-like clutch.

 

Its not that, the light fly wheel when in low rs just sounds like someone taking a saw to my fly wheel just sounds awful.. so get rid of it.

 

Fascinating. I'm not aware of how a flywheel can make any sound.... Are you referring to the time during clutch engagement while it is slipping slightly? Does your stage 4 clutch have ceramic pads? Those could be making scraping noises while engaging. I would expect everything to become perfectly silent once engaged.

 

Fully engaged at low rps worst is at 1500...

 

You sure there isn't something *actually* scraping in there?

 

well they have it aparts and everything looks good about to put it all back together and relizedthat there was no alingment tool.... and I cant find the old one sigh....couple day wait without a truck yuck!

 

Does that stage 4 URD have a solid hub clutch disc?

 

check you pilot bearing

 

Real men don't need clutch alignment tools

Seriously.

Eyeball it and then jimmy it into position. I've never used an alignment tool, and never had a problem.

 

You will find there isn't one if you do check. No bearing, or bushing, and no centering nose on the tranny input shaft.

And x2 on the eyeballing.

 

I was thinking the same thing as you guys but.. he said one word professional install, i respect that..... As for the stage 4 what you mean?

 

"professional install" = he doesn't trust his eye and doesn't want to do it twice

 

my TO bearing sounds like shit too, right after I had my clutch replaced.. Had the TO bearing replaced and still sounded like shit, so I'm leaving it until I swap out the clutch again then I will install the Sleeve for the TO bearing (supposedly fixes the annoying sound). But I was interested in going with the URD clutch next time, good to know

 

Is there a circle of roughly 6 coil springs in the center of the hub to dampen torsional vibration? Or is the splined hub of the disc mounted rigidly to the disc plate?

I took a glace at the URD site, and the only stage 4 for v6 spd I saw is a dampened disc.