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Tundra Brakes on '03 Tacoma

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by TACO in SC, Sep 19, 2012.

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  1. Sep 21, 2012 at 5:53 AM
    #21
    98tacoma27

    #21
    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    98tacoma27, Sep 21, 2012
    #21
  2. Sep 21, 2012 at 7:07 AM
    #22
    StAndrew

    #22
    StAndrew Wait for it...

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    StAndrew, Sep 21, 2012
    #22
  3. Sep 21, 2012 at 10:57 AM
    #23
    SCSPerformance

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    SCSPerformance Stealth Custom Series™ Vendor

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    your post with all those links should be a sticky. that's all the info, including this thread, anyone should ever need if they wanted to do this swap.

    great job guys:cheers:.
     
    SCSPerformance, Sep 21, 2012
    #23
  4. Sep 21, 2012 at 12:26 PM
    #24
    StAndrew

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    StAndrew Wait for it...

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    StAndrew, Sep 21, 2012
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  5. Sep 21, 2012 at 3:22 PM
    #25
    SCSPerformance

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    SCSPerformance Stealth Custom Series™ Vendor

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    SCSPerformance, Sep 21, 2012
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  6. Sep 21, 2012 at 5:56 PM
    #26
    TACO in SC

    #26
    TACO in SC [OP] TuRD

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    Today I received the calipers via UPS. I think I will take one wheel off tomorrow and install the rotor and caliper sans the pads to check clearance of everything before I apply paint to the caliper. I have the stock 5-spoke direction 16" wheels (the ugliest wheel ever put on a Tacoma :facepalm:) and they should clear.
    Ain't this a pretty sight?

    Tundra Brakes.jpg
     
    TACO in SC, Sep 21, 2012
    #26
  7. Sep 21, 2012 at 6:05 PM
    #27
    jberry813

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    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    For those of you doing/done the swap, there is one thing you need to keep in mind.
    The taco calipers use a banjo bolt as it's a soft line that goes directly to the caliper and bolts in to a machined finish metal between crush washers. The tundra calipers are not machine finished, it's just a raw casting. The tundra's have a hard line coming off the calipers that chases up the spindle to a soft line like the 4runners.

    The reason I mention this is I would suggest making an effort to religiously check the bolt to ensure it's snug and not leaking. The raw cast caliper isn't going to make the same seal as a machined finish using a banjo bolt. If the brakes feel weird, don't mess around. Pull over and check them.

    In the end, this is why I didn't do the swap even though I had all the parts.
     
    jberry813, Sep 21, 2012
    #27
  8. Sep 21, 2012 at 6:05 PM
    #28
    bellero

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    bellero Well-Known Member

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    Interesting thread, I'll look more into doing this.
     
    bellero, Sep 21, 2012
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  9. Sep 21, 2012 at 6:24 PM
    #29
    Grousehunter 12

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    Grousehunter 12 Well-Known Member

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    Everything will clear fine ,it would be a fine time to cut your backing plates on both sides ,hold the calipers up to the correct side as if they were bolted on , draw their outline onto the plate and cut that part off . I sprayed my plates with http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...ve-enamel/_/N-25gw?itemIdentifier=940367_0_0_. As for your wheels they were stock on the early Tundra TRD's and will fit fine. I also painted my calipers 3 coats of this http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...rm=caliper+aerosol+paint,+red,+12+oz.+aerosol .
     
    Grousehunter 12, Sep 21, 2012
    #29
  10. Sep 21, 2012 at 6:31 PM
    #30
    TACO in SC

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    TACO in SC [OP] TuRD

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    The calipers I received today have a machined surface where the crush washer will seat. It was cut quickly with the cutting tool that left a little rough surface. I'll clean them off with a fine file and I think they will seat just fine. I'll try to take a photo tomorrow.

    I like my calipers a subtle color and I have some high temp gray paint that I will probably apply. After it dries I'll heat them in the shop oven to cure the paint. I like to apply high temp silver paint to the areas of the rotor that don't make contact with the pads. Rusty rotors bug me.

    I believe I have some of that paint to apply to the plates. Thanks for the recommendation.

    Here is a photo of the caliper and rotor on the old Camaro. The Camaro caliper is powder coated but I don't feel like disassembling the Tacoma caliper to powder coat it. For my everyday driver truck paint will have to suffice.

    Caliper and rotor.jpg
     
    TACO in SC, Sep 21, 2012
    #30
  11. Sep 21, 2012 at 6:53 PM
    #31
    Grousehunter 12

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    Grousehunter 12 Well-Known Member

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    Mine are also machined . I didn't have an oven to dry mine in. I let them cure 24 hours between each coat .
     
    Grousehunter 12, Sep 21, 2012
    #31
  12. Sep 23, 2012 at 5:25 AM
    #32
    TACO in SC

    #32
    TACO in SC [OP] TuRD

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    Two, no three, no four questions:

    1- How do I install this "W" shaped spring thing? Edit: I found a photo on line

    2- Does the pad with the "Cricket" tab go on the inside or outside of the rotor?

    3- Do I need any backing plate or anything between the pistons and back of pads?

    4- Do I need any brake grease on the pins or where the pistons contact the back of the pads?

    Thanks guys!

    I must say that I am impressed with this upgrade. The rotor is ~ 7/8" larger diameter and ~ .220" thicker than stock. Add to that the larger pad area and the results have to be better braking. I will finish up this afternoon and can't wait for the test drive.

    Photo of mock up:

    Tacoma caliper4.jpg
     
    TACO in SC, Sep 23, 2012
    #32
  13. Sep 23, 2012 at 10:55 AM
    #33
    SCSPerformance

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    1. You found it already, but in case anyone else needs it. I think this is what you were referring too.
    83450d1280435330-tundra-brake-upgrade-ra_ea98dd285602fc00da934dee144ba88207fee34e.jpg

    2. I'm not sure what this refers too, but usually if it fits fine, you'll be ok.

    3. If the pads you bought didn't come with any plates then you're good to go. This varies from manufacturers.

    4. Lubrication on the piston to pad contact can help to minimize potential brake squealing issues. I've never add them to the pins from my experience.
     
    SCSPerformance, Sep 23, 2012
    #33
  14. Sep 23, 2012 at 5:05 PM
    #34
    TACO in SC

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    TACO in SC [OP] TuRD

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    Well they are on there. I bled the brakes with 15 PSI applied over the MC and again with a helper pumping the pedal. The brakes feel really good, but are kind of spongy unless I double pump the pedal. I must still have some air in the lines and I plan to will bleed the lines again after work tomorrow. :mad: Any tricks to purging the air bubbles that I should know about?
     
    TACO in SC, Sep 23, 2012
    #34
  15. Sep 23, 2012 at 5:18 PM
    #35
    Grousehunter 12

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    Grousehunter 12 Well-Known Member

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    You did bleed all 5 bleed points correct ?
     
    Grousehunter 12, Sep 23, 2012
    #35
  16. Sep 23, 2012 at 5:28 PM
    #36
    TACO in SC

    #36
    TACO in SC [OP] TuRD

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    I bled the brakes on the 4 corners front and rear purging the old brake fluid with fresh. Where is this 5th bleed point you speak of ? :confused: Edit: You are speaking of the LSPV at the rear axle. Since I didn't break the rear lines, other than bleeding, would I need to bleed this one too?
     
    TACO in SC, Sep 23, 2012
    #36
  17. Sep 23, 2012 at 6:08 PM
    #37
    Grousehunter 12

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    Grousehunter 12 Well-Known Member

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    Load sensing proportioning valve.
     
    Grousehunter 12, Sep 23, 2012
    #37
  18. Sep 23, 2012 at 6:15 PM
    #38
    TACO in SC

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    TACO in SC [OP] TuRD

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    Will include this when I re-bleed tomorrow.
     
    TACO in SC, Sep 23, 2012
    #38
  19. Sep 23, 2012 at 6:16 PM
    #39
    TACOMABOSS

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    TACOMABOSS Well-Known Member

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    That has fluid in it??
     
    TACOMABOSS, Sep 23, 2012
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  20. Sep 23, 2012 at 6:21 PM
    #40
    jberry813

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    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    How else would it reduce/increase brake pressure?
     
    jberry813, Sep 23, 2012
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