Ask a Plumber.

As a general rule of thumb in irrigation, over-sizing your line is a good idea mainly in that you are putting the least amount of resistance in place for the water to move. That applies to systems that may be 40-80-100+ft in pipe run. I think in your case, it is kinda un-nessacary because A: when are you likely to need all the water on in the house all at once and B: the water is still restricted at the fixtures that they are supplying anyways.

 

YOU SHOUKLD BE FINE WITH A 3/4" COPPER LINE.....BIGGER IS NOT ALWAYS BETTER AS WHEN YOU INCREASE THE DIA... YOU LOOSE SOME PRESSURE

 

Awesome, you guys are so incredibly helpful! I've attached a photo of my new water heater. The plywood that is supporting the heater is temporary, and will be replaced with concrete once I'm sure of the location ( I won't be able to move it obviously once I pour the concrete). So I'm trying to get the rough in finished first.

Thoughts and comments always appreciated.

 

LOOKS LIKE A NICE UNIT..
WHATA U GOT GOING ON TO THE RIGHT OF IT...WITH THE FERNCO AND 2" GAL CAP?

 

It's a Polaris 97% high efficiency, 34 gallon, 100,000 btu model. I've heard a lot of good things about it. I'll be using it for dhw and radiant heat via a heat exchanger. The galvi you see is my sewer drain, the 2" part used to go to a sink, which filled up occasionally when it rained a lot. Glad to have it out .

At some point I'm going to excavate down on the outside around the pipe, cutoff off the pipe a few feet, install an exterior clean out and run new pvc pipe in.

 

WELL IF YOU WERE GETTING WATER INTO THAT 2" LINE WHEN IT RAINED THATS A PROBLEM....
WHERE IS YOUR HOUSE TRAP?

 

I'm super excited to get the new water heater installed, my current one is on life support (really bad shape). I'm pretty sure I lost the dip tube years back.

 

Once or twice in the last fifteen years or so the sewer has backed up filling the basement sink. The level of the sink drain was to close to the level the sewer piped drained out.

I've never heard of a house trap? All of the fixtures do have traps except for the toilet.

Thanks

 

YOU MUST HAVE A HOUSE TRAP WITH CLEAN OUTS.....
ITS TO PREVENT THE SEWER GASES FROM ENTERING YOUR HOUSE....

 

I'll post up some pictures this evening of the plumbing setup, everything is exposed. Thanks for the heads up on this. I'll be sure to ask my plumber and the plumbing inspector about this in the days to come.

 

I've got a clawfoot tub on a tile floor, with chrome, flared tubing connecting the hot and cold, from shutoff valves at floor level. If the tub moves a fraction of an inch (tile=slippery) the tubing moves, and I get leaks, or jets of water shooting all over the bathroom. Does anybody make some sort of flexible line to connect from the shutoff valves to the tub valves? Sort of like a braided brake line to allow for some tub movement? Do I need to just borrow a flaring set, and make up my own flexible solution? I currently shut the water off at the valves to keep it from leaking, but geeze this sounds like a common problem lots of folks must have.

 

I MEAN I HAVE ONLY DONE PLUMBING IN NY BUT THATS A MAJOR COMPONET TO SANITARY SYSTEM

IS THERE NO WAY TO SECURE CLAW FOOT TUB TO FLOOR TO PREVENT MOVING....
PIPES NO LIKE MOVING FIXTURES
AND YES THEY MAKE FLEXI SUPPLIES FOR YOUR NEEDS BUT WILL LOOK LIKE CRAP....
THE WAY IT SOUNDS LIKE IT IS DONE IS PERFECT WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE MOVING TUB.....
A TOUCH OF SILICONE AFTER RAISING TUB SOUNDS LIKE A QUICK FIX THEN YOU CAN REDO THE CHROME SUPPLY'S

 

There might be one in the yard somewhere. All my drains have traps at the fixtures. It might be an Illinois thing.

 

where is your cleanout for the main sewer line to street located?

 

Here we go, sorry for the confusion. My terminology/communication is not so great. I like to say that English is my second language, and I don't know what my first is.....

The clean out is on the end of the horizontal pvc. The plumbing is hacked together from 100 year of mods. I plan to rip it all out as soon as I get my basement floor poured.

Just so many hours in a decade

 

The 4" pvc is the drain for the bathroom and is also tied to the main/only vent stack.

 

I'm getting my questions ready and I've got a bunch

 

Sweet, though can we do one at a time.....

 

Sure thing! I need to take pictures to better reference what I'm talking about anyway.

But I'll start with this, does anyone know anything about Bryant forced air heaters? I believe the igniter went out, I just want to make sure that I don't get overcharged.