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Tundra Brakes on '03 Tacoma

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by TACO in SC, Sep 19, 2012.

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  1. Sep 23, 2012 at 7:44 PM
    #41
    TACOMABOSS

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    TACOMABOSS Well-Known Member

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    I honestly never really looked at it that hard. Nor thought about it that much lol :eek:
     
    TACOMABOSS, Sep 23, 2012
    #41
  2. Sep 23, 2012 at 8:49 PM
    #42
    Grousehunter 12

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    Grousehunter 12 Well-Known Member

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    It's the only one you didn't bleed and it's supposed to be the last bled , my thinking is it would be the first thing I tried for a better pedal feel . Unless you placed a tight fitting hose on the bleeders and the other end of that hose into a bottle under some brake fluid and then purged that hose you did break the rear lines as air can and will sometimes enter the system via the bleeders themselves . There is a correct order for the bleed points which you followed correct ? Not sure how important that bleed point order is as I did it in the order recommended. Be very careful with the LSPV bleeder as my understanding is that thing can be a real bitch to replace.
     
    Grousehunter 12, Sep 23, 2012
    #42
  3. Sep 24, 2012 at 5:18 PM
    #43
    TACO in SC

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    TACO in SC [OP] TuRD

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    Okay, I got er' done. This afternoon I clamped the M/C gizmo on top of the master cylinder, connected the air line set at 15 PSI, and commenced to bleeding. I bled the front passenger side, then the driver's side, then moved to the rear axle for the 5th bleed site.

    The rear drums were bled using the same procedure yesterday and with pressure applied I don't think any air could have sucked into the slave cylinders.

    I went out to set the brakes with the routine of repetitive accelerations and quick slow downs and now the brakes feel really good. Thanks to you all for your assistance!

    Below is a photo of the M/C gizmo that allowed me to apply 15 PSI to the M/C.

    Master Cylinder 15 PSI.jpg
     
    TACO in SC, Sep 24, 2012
    #43
  4. Sep 24, 2012 at 6:37 PM
    #44
    Grousehunter 12

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    Grousehunter 12 Well-Known Member

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    You make that gizmo ? If so are those plumbing supplies ? Looks handy.
     
    Grousehunter 12, Sep 24, 2012
    #44
  5. Sep 25, 2012 at 6:31 AM
    #45
    TACO in SC

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    TACO in SC [OP] TuRD

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    I seems I still have a soft pedal. When the engine is running the pedal will slowly go to the floor when pressure is applied. When the engine is off the pedal is solid. This tells me the master cylinder is okay. Do you think I have air in the ABS system? If so, how do I purge this air?

    Edit: I found this information and printed it out. Will work through this in the evening. Edit again. I don't have the electronic device referenced in the link above. Will keep Looking.

    The gizmo thing is made from plumbing supplies from Lowes. About $6 considering I already had the air line fitting.
     
    TACO in SC, Sep 25, 2012
    #45
  6. Sep 25, 2012 at 9:14 AM
    #46
    Grousehunter 12

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    Grousehunter 12 Well-Known Member

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    I would start the process again. Start with the rear pass side, then drivers rear, pass front, drivers front , LSPV . I ran 5 (12oz.) bottles thru mine . You have VSC ? Your link is for a truck with VSC , I have never seen one. I think those systems are almost as rare as " Hen's Teeth " .
     
    Grousehunter 12, Sep 25, 2012
    #46
  7. Sep 25, 2012 at 9:51 AM
    #47
    TACO in SC

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    TACO in SC [OP] TuRD

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    No VSC for my truck. That link didn't give me what I thought it would. I'll be going through the process once again this evening. At least the weather is really nice outside now. I did start with the RR last time, will start with the LR this time. Possibly that is the root cause of the problems.
     
    TACO in SC, Sep 25, 2012
    #47
  8. Sep 25, 2012 at 4:40 PM
    #48
    TACO in SC

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    TACO in SC [OP] TuRD

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    Well I just finished filtering 32 oz of brake fluid through this truck in the pattern of rear pass side, then drivers rear, pass front, drivers front, then LSPV. I went around twice. I used the M/C topper with 18 PSI of air pushing the fluid through and I am confident nothing sucked back.

    I still have a soft pedal when the engine is running and a hard pedal with the engine off. My opinion is air has infiltrated the ABS system and I don't have the tools to remedy that condition.

    While I am not a professional auto mechanic I do have years of tinkering with cars but have never worked this close with an ABS system. It's got me stumped.

    What do you guys think?
     
    TACO in SC, Sep 25, 2012
    #48
  9. Sep 25, 2012 at 4:52 PM
    #49
    EL TACOROJO

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    EL TACOROJO SNAPPIN NECKS AND CASHIN CHECKS.

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    EL TACOROJO, Sep 25, 2012
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  10. Sep 25, 2012 at 4:52 PM
    #50
    jberry813

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    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Me think's you're thinking of the original GM ABS system that had to run some retarded computer routine to open and close the valves in their system. As I understand it, there's nothing special about the taco ABS units. The valves in the actuator are wide open unless the ABS is engaged. A normal bleed will push fluid through it the same.

    Personally I never really liked the applied pressure gizmos on the MC. I'm old school and do the famed 2 person bleed tactic. One person pumps and holds (generally someone of very little skill....I've got my 8 year old doing it for me now) while the other opens the bleed screws (me).
     
    jberry813, Sep 25, 2012
    #50
  11. Sep 25, 2012 at 4:55 PM
    #51
    EL TACOROJO

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    EL TACOROJO SNAPPIN NECKS AND CASHIN CHECKS.

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    Im the same way old school tried and true
     
    EL TACOROJO, Sep 25, 2012
    #51
  12. Sep 25, 2012 at 5:07 PM
    #52
    Grousehunter 12

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    Grousehunter 12 Well-Known Member

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    I don't care for the applied pressure either , in fairness I will admit to never using one as the wife now pumps since the daughter has left home . I may at some point in time make one to try .
     
    Grousehunter 12, Sep 25, 2012
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  13. Sep 25, 2012 at 5:14 PM
    #53
    Grousehunter 12

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    Grousehunter 12 Well-Known Member

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    Also wondering if the applied pressure has some how worked air into MC and if it now needs to be bench bled ?
     
    Grousehunter 12, Sep 25, 2012
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  14. Sep 25, 2012 at 5:21 PM
    #54
    jberry813

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    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Bench bleeding isn't necessary, it's just faster if there's air in the MC because you don't have to bleed it all the way through the lines.

    If it were my truck, I'd open every damn valve on the truck and gravity bleed the thing for a couple hours. Close everything up and do a full old timers bleed. If the pedal still sinks, you've got a leak or something's fucked up with the mc, wheel cylinders, or calipers.
     
    jberry813, Sep 25, 2012
    #54
  15. Sep 25, 2012 at 5:21 PM
    #55
    TACO in SC

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    TACO in SC [OP] TuRD

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    Wouldn't my M/C be mushy with the engine off if it had air in it? I'll get my wife out there to do the pumping later this week and try it once again. That's all I know to do, other than taking it someplace, and I really don't want to do that.

    Thanks for sticking with me guys.
     
    TACO in SC, Sep 25, 2012
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  16. Sep 25, 2012 at 5:23 PM
    #56
    jberry813

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    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Not necessarily.
    The problem is exacerbated with the engine on because it's a powered brake system. I would agree with your statement for vehicles that don't have a brake booster.
     
    jberry813, Sep 25, 2012
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  17. Dec 17, 2013 at 5:47 PM
    #57
    TACO in SC

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    TACO in SC [OP] TuRD

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    Just to sum it all up: I did bleed the lines with another quart of fluid using the old fashioned pump method resulting in a firm brake pedal. I've now run these brakes for more than a year and they stop very well.
     
    TACO in SC, Dec 17, 2013
    #57
    StevenP and Taco_SS like this.
  18. Jun 23, 2015 at 7:51 PM
    #58
    MatthewMay1

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    MatthewMay1 I'm an amateur professional.

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    Sub. Just found this thread and there is some great information here.
     
    MatthewMay1, Jun 23, 2015
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  19. May 22, 2018 at 11:00 PM
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    QMEDJoe

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    QMEDJoe Proverbs 3:5-6

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    QMEDJoe, May 22, 2018
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  20. Feb 3, 2019 at 5:29 PM
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    BeastyDirtSlut

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    BeastyDirtSlut Well-Known Member

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    I'm gonna wake up this dead thread, sorry guys. I just did the powerstop Z23 13WL swap on my 02 dcsb trd. I dont have the ABS module on my passenger inner fender so I am assuming I dont have abs. Everything fit great and the stock banjos seem to be seated well after drilling. Bled the system till I got fresh fluid everywhere but it just doesn't seem to have the pressure to bite the front rotors. I asked about this on another thread and was told to bleed in this order
    LPSV
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    But in this thread it is said several times to bleed the LPSV last. Can someone help?
     
    BeastyDirtSlut, Feb 3, 2019
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