2009 Taco won't start, no codes, cranks

Pretty sure it's the flux capacitor. Add some banana peels and a few empty beer cans and try it. If that doesn't work, go with Ghosts' comment and light it on fire. Gather your friends, beer, and a bag of marshmellows and come to terms with your loss. Tell the insurance company on Monday that lightning hit it. It was crazy.

Sorry for your troubles, hang in there! Sometimes a little humor helps a shitty situation.

 

The Immobilizer system is designed to NOT be able to bypass. That being said, it is possible, but the cost of doing so would far exceed the cost of fixing the problem.

To the OP, good luck and let us know what you hear. I am still a strong believer that the fault lays in the Immobilizer system. I have dealt many times with these Immobilizers.

 

Thanks, it wouldn't start again this morning and just got back from trying to get it to run. It's a no go this lunch hour. I think I might end my run early and leave site Monday so I can get someone more knowledgeable than myself to take a look at it. I will keep the immobilizer in mind.

Thanks for all the posts everyone. It's really appreciated

 

You are most welcome. Please let us know what you find out. It would be appreciated, and may help others who may develop this same problem.

 

I'm sure you've seen this TSB before. And yes I know you have an '09 but if your still playing the guessing game it might be worth checking out. Says it's for a 05-07 but ya never know.

Came across this one while going through the list on TW and thought of your situation. good luck and hope you get it worked out soon.

 

Sorry guys! I've been handling a few crisis at work the past 4 days, haven't been able to get on here much. It's been raining for the past week so I've been taco-less since Thursday due to no start issues. Latest I'm getting out of here is next Monday. I'll be rechecking a few things at home and if that's a no go its going to the shop the next day.


Thanks for the TSB info! I had seen it before. Something to keep in mind though

 

The local repair shops that I trust were all booked this week.

I had the hairdryer to the main relay box and fuse panel by the stearing wheel for an hour before it gave in and started Monday morning. The plastic case for the fuel relay was cracked so I thought maybe the humidity was triggering something there. Brand new relay in. Still having issues...

Hoping to get it in somewhere early next week. If not it's being traded for a 2013. **** it.

 

or 08 and lower...

I don't think they put all the electrical jazz in the trucks until 2009, though I could be wrong. IIRC I got a valet key with my 2011 reg cab but not with my 2008 TRD OR. 2013 will have all the same electrical shit as yours but will be a little more refined as its been a few years..

good luck! and keep us posted!

 

is it fixed yet??

 

No it isn't

It's scheduled to go in to a different dealer next Tuesday. In the meantime I'm stuck having to keep a hairdryer and extension cord with me at all times since heat to the main fuse box is the only way I can get it to start when the humidity is high out

The looks I get from some people are priceless... some men are nice and ask if I need a boost until they realize the issue isn't just a dead battery. lol

 

Back from yet ANOTHER dealership, same story, different day. No codes = unable to troubleshoot.

I'm getting so fed up with this, the tech might have spent 15 min, 20 min TOPS on it today...

On top of it the link for my passenger side wiper decided to let go in the middle of my commute yesterday, repair quote $360

 

If you've isolated the problem to the main fuse box, why not start replacing / testing the components inside it?

 

I've already replaced the Fuel pump relay, that cost $127.00 if I remember correctly. If all the other relays are close to that cost I don't really feel like dumping $1K in there if they're perfectly fine. Plus, if the relays were bad I would think they would generate codes no? Not to mention I'd be having more issues than the no start when damp.

I appreciate your suggestion! I would think there's a better way to resolve the problem though...

 

You can test the relays to confirm their operation with a multimeter. I can find the procedure if you like. If the fuel-pump relay was fine why not return it to the dealer for a refund?

Have you visually inspected everything in the fuse box? The heat your adding with a hair dryer could cause metal to expand and cause something to make contact.

 

Because the plastic casing for my old one was cracked (hence the more obvious choice to replace that one first) so I'm keeping the old one as a spare.

We've had frost some mornings and it'll fire up just fine and keep running if the air is crisp. Expanding metal from heat makes sense but because I only have a problem when humidity is high I don't believe it's the issue (or at least not the only issue if it's a cluster of things)

Yes I have visually inspected it but I'm no expert, so aside from a little dust everything looks perfectly fine.

 

you tried a main relay? #13 EFI Relay ?..if not,swap it for the one you just replaced

 

I've thought about you putting heat to the fuse block to get it to start. I also thought about your humid air vs. dry air.

Some wire harness will have a rubber seal around them and being a fuse block I would be shocked to see that there is no seals on the plugs going into the bottom of the block. My thought is that moisture is getting in there making it passed the bad seal and therefore opening the circuit somewhere in there.

To further diagnose this I would almost be inclined to get the truck running, take a spray bottle and soak down your fuse block from the bottom and top. See where that gets you?

Anyone else have anything to add to my opinion on her no start?