Steering wheel shakes when braking at high speed

So my steering wheel has been shaking and getting progressively worse when slowing down at highway speeds. I recently had the truck in for regular service and asked them to take a look at it. I assumed it was a brake issue. They recommended brakes/rotors, an alignment and new tires because they are feathering. Obviously they didn’t make enough from my pre-paid service. I declined all and an seeking some opinions.

2010 Pre-Runner
285/70/17 BFG AT/KO
5100’s @ 2.5 with stock UCA’s
Rear TSB
27,000 miles

 

Rotors are warped or tires are out of balance.

Take the tires to discount tire and have them check balance first. If that is ok and you still have an issue, check rotors next.

 

From the sound of it you have a toe issue with your alignment causing the feathered tire. Also if the shake in the steering wheel is only during braking chances are you have warped rotors. Napa, Vatozone, and O'Reily can resurface them but you are trusting parts counter mechanics to do it. In my opinion, I would trust Napa before the others unless you know and trust someone that works there.

 

X2.

 

alignment caused my 285's to shake the wheel, alignment cured. but balance is your most likely culprit. if its the rotors you would feel it in the pedal (do you?)

 

Nothing in the pedal. Oddly enough though I tend to rest my hand on the shifter while driving and have noticed a vibration there. Could that be related?

I'm having the tires rotated and balanced after work. Discount said they'll do if for free. If I don't notice a significant change I'm going in for brakes and alignment. The last thing I want to do is spend a grand on new tires but if I do I'm consideing going smaller and dropping my 5100's down to 1.75.

 

Between alignment, breaks, and balance you'll get it fixed. Sounds like warped rotors to me.

Good luck man!

 

warped rotors without pedal wobble? doubtful.

 

Very possible. Our corolla does it after heavy use. I used to see it all the time when I worked for Cadillac.

 

that is a disturbing thought, poor material? Heats up...warps.. cools down.. unwarps?

 

Well I had the tires rotated and balanced. Did not fix the problem. I'm taking it in next weekend for brakes.

 

Flynn, can you post a picture of your front rotors? Take the wheel off and take a good picture of the rotor for me. I think I have an idea of what it is if it was not the tires or alignment.

If you have blueing or scoring in your rotors then they may have heat spots. If you stop with your foot still on the brake from a highway stop or whatnot in the valley, you may put hot spots on your rotors. This hardens or glazes a part of your rotor which loses the friction rate which then does not stop and actually "skips" when you are braking. I had this problem on my wife's 4Runner's, 04, 06, 06, and 08. All 4WD V8 4runners and they had this problem. Sometimes there may not be much signs on the rotors.

I would try bedding in your pads first. Being LEO, do it somewhere safe and where you can and don't pull me over if you see me doing it. Drive it up to 30mph, then progressively apply maximum pressure until you are about to completely stop then let go. Key. DO NOT stop completely! drive up to 60mph and do that same procedure by braking hard but not locking the wheels. If you are able to do this 3-4 times @ 60mph, rest your vehicle in neutral with foot off the brake. This will have bedded in your brakes and shaved off any left pad material on the rotors or pads off for a cleaner smoother surface.

If that does not fix it, unfortunately you will have to replace your front rotors. I HIGHLY suggest as a replacement Powerslot slotted or DBA slotted rotors. Do not buy cross drilled.

let me know your findings.

 

Regular high speed braking would kill most any rotor.

 

I never felt anything in the pedal with my warped rotors... I think the way the brakes are setup at least with my '10 a-trac setup is a bit diff than normal. Either way, it helped a lot replacing them, and I just used Vatozone Duralasts... they've actually been pretty legit thus far.

 

Holy hot spots batman. 100% its the rotors, a balance issue would happen all the time, not just when braking. Nowadays a warped rotor will be felt in the steering wheel, not always in the pedal. The last thing i would even consider is tire balance purely based off the OP's description.

 

Both of these are untrue. Balance issue tends to only happen during certain speed intervals unless they are really out of balance. Warped rotors will always be felt through the pedal even with the ABS block because a warped rotor will push fluid back through the caliper which will push back through the ABS then the master which is tied into your pedal.

And no, techs do not make jack from a prepaid service. The upsell is where the gravy is at. But you cant be mad at them for that. Like every capitalistic company they need to make money to survive.

Now the dealer gave you the three things to fix and you took the cheap route by having Discount only try and do one which is understandable money is tight right now. However, did they force match those larger tires? Also did they dynamic balance them? (placement of the weight on the wheel) Im thinking no since it was free but if they did tires can be ruled out. Your tires feathering are most likely from the alignment issue but without pics it is hard to say. AT KO's should be about ready to go with that many miles on them. As for brakes, 27k on those size tires and that weight of truck its about time for brakes and rotors. Take into acount the heat marks and I would surmize that your culprits are the alignements and brakes.

As for your vibration issues within the shifter. You have large offroad tires on your truck. Your going to feel things more because of it. You want it to ride and feel like a mercedes, buy a mercedes.

Also a recommendation for your next tire choice. Goodyear Duratracs. A bit pricey for an AT but twice the life span of a BFG with better road wear and handling.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
First, the Op stated that the issue is happening "When slowing down at highway speeds", this to me would indicate that he is braking, not that he is coasting or anything else. 2nd, I do agree that tire vibratins do tend to happen at distinct speeds depending on the individual vehicle, but again, he mentioned "when slowing down" so he would not have been going any particular speed in which to indicate tire vibration.

Now regarding what you and a few others, including the shop, have stated, @ 27k miles why in the world would any vehicle need new rotors? If i were a gambling man i would be willing to bet this is the OP's first major brake issue thus indicating that his rotors have never been resurfaced and will have plenty of life remaining once they resurface them to rid the warp. He has not fully shown nor indicated any major hot spots and until he does, i say resurface along with a full front brake job and get an alignment to help with the feathering issue.

 

Alignment does NOT cause a vibration. Replace your front rotors! And pads d they're below 50%

 

Lies. Alignment most certainly can cause vibration especially on aggressive tread.

Pads below 50% are perfectly fine... it's all about even wear.

 

I've never felt any alignment cause a vibration. And I've done thousands of alignments. And diagnosed and successfully fixed dozens of vibration issues. However...I do understand how aggressive tread could cause a very slight vibration. As for the pads, I like to replace pads and rotors at the same time if te pads are below 50%. Sure they're probably fine. But I have had problems with come backs due to squeeling. It's safer and easier(since you're already in there), to just do a full brake job. Some people believe in doing things differently. I like having the vehicle fixed in one shot with no come-backs.