Ask a Plumber.

What should i do with this....



Just kidding, i had to install base cabinets around this! Shitty stupid insurance jobs, plumbing wasnt in the scope of work so we pretty much couldnt touch it. Just cut the whole back and part of the bottom of the cabinet out :hackjob: had to take a picture for my buddy who is a plumer to show off this fine craftsmanship. Oh and it started leaking just from looking at it, so we did hafta call a plumber, the solder was the worse i have ever seen

 

If the slope of your copper doesnt matter and you can drill the whole wherever in the joist you should drill the hole in the center of the joist. The top of the joist is under compression and the bottom of the joist is under tension. Drilling the hole in the very center of the joist so in your case 3 3/4 would affect the structural integrety the least compared to drilling closer to the top or bottom of the joist. But if its just a 1" hole you should be fine drilling wherever.

 

How old? What's it doing?

A hot surface type ignitor usually will have a visible crack in it if it's failed.

The newer units have on board diagnostics and will flash an LED located on the control board. You can usually see this through a clear plastic sight located in the access door on the front of the furnace. When you remove the door, it cuts the power to the control board and resets the code, so make sure you look through the sight first to count how many times it flashes. If it's got the flashing light, it should have a list of fault codes on the inside of the door.

Furnaces are all about sequence of operation. Things happen in a set order, and you just look to see what ISN't happening in that sequence.

I'm not a plumber, and I'd stop short of calling myself an HVAC guy, but the company I work for does appliance repair, Heating and AC, and I do the occasional heating call here and there.

 

dont know uch about forced air but is it gas fired?
if so it should have a thermocoupling and that is what goes out about 90% of the time

 

Rusty...awesome! I have a house with all pex water lines. There is a "ticking" sound in one of the ceilings that occurs when the hot water tank is on or being used. I suspect this s due to expansion and want to install an expansion tank. I have a 75 gal water heater. Is this a difficult job? I have all the pex tools needed. I assume I would need to find a horizontal run of pex near the hot water heater and support the expansion tank with strapping? I'm pretty handy but if you think this best eft to a plumber, tell me! Thanks! Phil

 

My bad, thought you were talking about my plumbing disaster

 

Thanks. That's pretty much what I was thinking. My plumber said that the plumbing inspector liked to see the pipe closer to the bottom and away from any wall 18" to 24", I'm sure for ease of access. I will have a heating duct in some of the bays, which is why they suggested going lower (my guess).

 

I just want to sound like I kind of know what I'm talking about when I have someone come to check it out. Thanks for the suggestions and help!

 

No problem.

That model number doesn't mean anything just off the top of my head, but if it's got the flashing light and is 12 years old, it probably has a "draft inducer motor". That's most likely what you are hearing when you turn the thermostat on.

The draft inducer motor creates an exhaust draft up the flue pipe prior to beginning the ignition sequence. There is a pressure switch installed near the draft inducer motor and connected with a rubber hose. That's how the computer verifies that the draft inducer motor is able to do it's job and that the flue pipe is clear. It's possible that the flue is blocked, or the pressure switch is sticky or has failed. The pressure switch is a somewhat common failure, but not super frequent. The computer won't initiate the ignition sequence until it sees the pressure switch contacts close.

Next step is for the ignitor to come on. Probably will be a hot surface (glowbar) type, but some do have spark ignition. Once that happens, gas gets released. If the computer doesn't see a flame (there is a flame sensor), it will shut the gas off after a couple of seconds. If all goes well, the blower comes on a couple minutes later.

There are fault codes related to these steps. Hope this helps you be an informed customer.

 

Thank you, the information helps alot!

 

As suggested I decided to create my own build page. Here it be

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/garage-workshop/242619-geodes-plumbing-build.html#post5791201

 

Here in Texas we put the expansion tank on the cold side of water heater.

 

That's where mine is

 

I have determined that the problem is due to the pex hot water pipe being run through a joist hole and as it expands it is rubbing against the wood. Pex expands more than copper. There really is no "fix" for it per se other than finding the spot and enlarging the hole, or inserting a low friction gasket. I do have a hot water recirculator that has been turned off that I will turn back on to try to even out the hot water distribution to lessen the rubbing. Installing an expansion tank will not lessen or resolve the problem. And you are correct, the expansion tank should be on the cold water side...as it turns out I am on a water well which acts as an expansion tank anyways.

 

You're correct. I knew what you were saying. I'm a plumber and have experienced this quite often. It wouldn't bother me as much as others since I hear a ringing in my ears all the time.
I too am on well but still have a tank on water heater.the pressure tank is that, a pressure tank. A well is a closed loop by having check valves and should have an expansion tank at heater.

What about locating the vicinity of the pipe and drill a small hole that the tube from a spray foam can shoot into the area to cushion it?

 

I have used pex,wursbo,uponor,kitec. I've just not experienced this as bad as you may. But expansion will go to the cold side.

Hope this helps.

 

That's a great idea Kolunatic. Is there some kind of wall stethoscope thingee that I could use to narrow the search? I wouldn't bother except that the ticking sound can get loud and seems to be above a bedroom. I have a post and beam house so all the HVAC and plumbing is between the first floor and lower level. It drives my guests nuts......need some device to help me isolate and locate where it is coming from.....

 

I have a surgical fiber optic scope that I traded for a homemade pit I made from water heater. They sell a fiber optic scope at home depot , Milwaukee,around 150$ depends on features.

 

Or get a mechanics stethoscope at northern.

 

Excellent...I am searching already.....they used trusses between the floors to get the height they needed for all the utility pipes and vents, so really if I can cut a hole big enough to get my head through I may be able to see it up close....but I want to cut the hole where I am confident I am very near it. Thanks for the reference......I'll start with a small hole to look around....