Long Travel BS Thread

i hope so! got some front end changes coming soon too

 

Finally going to mount a bypass?

 

those shims are for my rear shocks

this is the front end change

 

200 psi is stock

 

Fox says it can be up to 500#

Another dumb sounding question, how much can an 18" smoothie leak before it starts affecting performance? I dont have time to order a rebuild kit and nobody carries sway away stuff here in AZ

 

How much is it leaking?

 

It leaked a quarter size spot on the ground on sunday and stopped dripping off the bottom but I wiped the shaft dry and its still leaking enough to cover the whole shaft

 

Like seeping or dripping? I would just keep wiping it right now , and if your going to glamis just watch it often, and just change it after, cant cause much damage. If possible cover the shaft with cover from gettin dirty.

 

My update,

 

I guess seeping, it must have dripped overnight on sunday. Its not dripping off the shock anymore but it is still enough to make the shaft wet all the way to the bottom

 

why?

i dont really understand why everyone is going back to stock spindles, is it just cause the steering feels tighter?

 

i also want to.....but then i relieze i love my spindles!....and yeah steering is my issue

 

i have a set of extra stock 4x4 spindles with tc gussets on them... and the guy i bought my lt kit from has all of the other parts to convert to 4x4. i just remember you saying your over 2wd

 

Time to re-valve your shocks

 

front or rear? single shock, bypass?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=xMUBxyugwaM#!

 

I was an on-purpose "oops" for testing purposes kind of a jump into an upslope. Most stuff I cant get them to go much past half stroke on the bump

Edit: Also I didnt clarify but I am talking about front bumps, I still have rubber bumps in the rear

 

Put the hollowed out side towards the nitrogen end cap, flat side towards the oil. That way the white plastic slider is lubed, and the o ring is the final seal.

Without going into too much detail, setting the dividing piston about half way up the resi is usually a good spot to set it. **

because

This will give room for oil volume displacement one way, (the shaft entering the shock during compression which takes up oil space/volume) and enough of a cavity for the nitrogen charge to push that volume back out to full extension the other way.

I like to leave the nitrogen end cap off until the shock is fully assembled and full of oil, makes it easier to get oil level right and air out while making sure the dividing piston didn't move too far either way during assembly. I take the shrader valve off the cap but you don't have to

Resi's are usually long enough to give you wiggle room either way with your oil/nitrogen volumes so it's not a crazy precise thing, get's a little tighter on SAW's lil resi's. blah

** if you assemble the shocks with the shaft more at full compression, you don't need as big of a nitrogen cavity, if you assemble them more at full extension then you need more of a nitrogen cavity.

 

i had them in the rear for a really long time...and honestly the steering felt pretty terrible without them as well.