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Long Travel BS Thread

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by amaes, Aug 20, 2010.

  1. Oct 16, 2012 at 12:23 PM
    nelson18matt

    nelson18matt Well-Known Member

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    i hope so! got some front end changes coming soon too

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Oct 16, 2012 at 12:24 PM
    RJALLDAY702

    RJALLDAY702 U MAD? OH U MAD

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    Finally going to mount a bypass?
     
  3. Oct 16, 2012 at 12:25 PM
    nelson18matt

    nelson18matt Well-Known Member

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    those shims are for my rear shocks

    this is the front end change

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Oct 16, 2012 at 12:39 PM
    livel0veryde

    livel0veryde Well-Known Member

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    200 psi is stock
     
  5. Oct 16, 2012 at 12:42 PM
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    Fox says it can be up to 500#

    Another dumb sounding question, how much can an 18" smoothie leak before it starts affecting performance? :eek: I dont have time to order a rebuild kit and nobody carries sway away stuff here in AZ
     
  6. Oct 16, 2012 at 12:43 PM
    Anthony250

    Anthony250 Ex Fabricator

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    How much is it leaking?
     
  7. Oct 16, 2012 at 12:46 PM
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    It leaked a quarter size spot on the ground on sunday and stopped dripping off the bottom but I wiped the shaft dry and its still leaking enough to cover the whole shaft
     
  8. Oct 16, 2012 at 12:49 PM
    Anthony250

    Anthony250 Ex Fabricator

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    Like seeping or dripping? I would just keep wiping it right now , and if your going to glamis just watch it often, and just change it after, cant cause much damage. If possible cover the shaft with cover from gettin dirty.
     
  9. Oct 16, 2012 at 12:49 PM
    Anthony250

    Anthony250 Ex Fabricator

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    My update, 1016121245_6208db26621d49ead136a03c10c887a8514cf210.jpg
     
  10. Oct 16, 2012 at 12:58 PM
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    I guess seeping, it must have dripped overnight on sunday. Its not dripping off the shock anymore but it is still enough to make the shaft wet all the way to the bottom
     
  11. Oct 16, 2012 at 1:09 PM
    97yota4wd

    97yota4wd Well-Known Member

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    alot of metal, small engine, decent travel.
    caged, camburg long travel, 50t leafpack (soon to be installed) light rack over cab, 5pt harnesses etc
    why?

    i dont really understand why everyone is going back to stock spindles, is it just cause the steering feels tighter?
     
  12. Oct 16, 2012 at 1:10 PM
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    i also want to.....but then i relieze i love my spindles!....and yeah steering is my issue
     
  13. Oct 16, 2012 at 1:13 PM
    santabarbarataco

    santabarbarataco Well-Known Member

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    i have a set of extra stock 4x4 spindles with tc gussets on them... and the guy i bought my lt kit from has all of the other parts to convert to 4x4. i just remember you saying your over 2wd
     
  14. Oct 16, 2012 at 1:13 PM
    TC yota

    TC yota Well-Known Member

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    Time to re-valve your shocks
     
  15. Oct 16, 2012 at 1:14 PM
    TC yota

    TC yota Well-Known Member

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    front or rear? single shock, bypass?
     
  16. Oct 16, 2012 at 1:15 PM
    RJALLDAY702

    RJALLDAY702 U MAD? OH U MAD

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  17. Oct 16, 2012 at 1:18 PM
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    I was an on-purpose "oops" for testing purposes :eek: kind of a jump into an upslope. Most stuff I cant get them to go much past half stroke on the bump

    Edit: Also I didnt clarify but I am talking about front bumps, I still have rubber bumps in the rear
     
  18. Oct 16, 2012 at 1:28 PM
    Happysmiley

    Happysmiley Well-Known Member

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    Fabien
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    Put the hollowed out side towards the nitrogen end cap, flat side towards the oil. That way the white plastic slider is lubed, and the o ring is the final seal.

    Without going into too much detail, setting the dividing piston about half way up the resi is usually a good spot to set it. **

    because

    This will give room for oil volume displacement one way, (the shaft entering the shock during compression which takes up oil space/volume) and enough of a cavity for the nitrogen charge to push that volume back out to full extension the other way.

    I like to leave the nitrogen end cap off until the shock is fully assembled and full of oil, makes it easier to get oil level right and air out while making sure the dividing piston didn't move too far either way during assembly. I take the shrader valve off the cap but you don't have to

    Resi's are usually long enough to give you wiggle room either way with your oil/nitrogen volumes so it's not a crazy precise thing, get's a little tighter on SAW's lil resi's. blah

    ** if you assemble the shocks with the shaft more at full compression, you don't need as big of a nitrogen cavity, if you assemble them more at full extension then you need more of a nitrogen cavity.
     
  19. Oct 16, 2012 at 2:07 PM
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Get rid of the wheel spacers, problem solved.
     
  20. Oct 16, 2012 at 2:08 PM
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    i had them in the rear for a really long time...and honestly the steering felt pretty terrible without them as well.
     

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