Bass head with an idea and thinking out loud.

This might seem a little crazy, but if you take a dead blow hammer to your rear wall, beat in some of those protruding sections, and build your enclosure off of the rear wall of your truck, you'll be able to squeeze a little bit more air space out of it. The extra anchoring that you get from using the rear wall of the truck as the rear wall of the enclosure can be pretty beneficial, too.

 

I could get a full cube back there with 1/2 mdf but I want to be able to put an amp rack on the edge of the box to get it off the floor and I doubt it would stand up to a decent sub.

 

And I really don't want to fuck it up anymore than I already have. I made the mistake of cutting the child restraint bar before testing my present woofer box for fitment and came to find out that it would have fit just fine with it on I now have a new one from the factory ready to weld back on whenever I want to, so it is reversible just not readily reversible.

Edit: Regardless I barely contain my excitement to get this put together. My father has been helping me all along in the best way he knows how but we don't always do it the same way as I'm a little more hands on and he's a little more mathematical. I'm going to get some wood in the next week or so and start building the box. My sub is still a 2 weeks or so away but I'll have the box built up and ready to just drop the sub in and go.

 

Nice! Have fun with the build. Looking forward to pics of the final product.

 

Question though I've modeled the sub with a 2x28 round port, it's .607ft3 tuned at 27hz, should I do my port straight out the side or would it be ok to have an immediate 90 bend at the port's mouth? This box is mainly SPL but I'd rather not hear the wind noise.

 

Why not build a slot port?

 

How would I do that? Just have it slotted and follow a U shape up the box? When I use WinISD it gives me a 2x2x27 I was just thinking that it would be better to have it ported on the same plane as the sub but I'm open to suggestion's.

 

Ah, I am not familiar with with winISD. You are getting a shallow alpine type R 10", right?

 

Yes. 2ohm.

 

When I had my type R, I built the enclosure precisely to the specifications that Alpine set fourth for that woofer. It was LOUD, and sounded pretty damn good.

 

Sub in Alabama right now so another 2-3 day's I'm going to build the box tomorrow now that I'm paid up. I'll most likely be resealing and selling my box soon.

 

Finished building the box. Carpet tomorrow.

 

Boom. .757ft^3 tuned at 23hz.

 

Looks good man! I gotta ask though, how big is that port diameter? Is that a 10 you're fitting or a 12" sub?

 

2x21" port. It was build for an Alpine SWRT10. I need to sand down about a tenth of an inch to fit the sub but I'll wait to do that until I get it. Should be here Monday I had a little trouble with the guy having to verify my shipping address because my shipping and billing are different.

 

My suspicion's that I cut the hole to high were confirmed this morning. I'm going to rebuild the box tomorrow probably. Here's the sub though. I can get a good seal with the way it is right now but it sticks out to far to fold the seats up and I can't screw it in. It's bumping harder and lower than my dual 8's with half the power. It'll really make some noise with ~600w RMS.

 

You will need larger than a 2" port for that 10" sub. You'll need a 3" port for sure. If not you'll hear the port chuffing.

 

Ok I'll keep that in mind when I build the new box. Thanks.

 

You're welcome. I don't want you to have to repeat the work again.

 

It's alright in my rush to finish I put the sub hole to high up and now it's to shallow to fit. However I sold the box for a hundred bucks to some guy who didn't care how bad his Memphis shallow sub would probably sound in the box even after I told him it probably would sound great. Whatever, I doubled my investment so I couldn't care less.