What oil?

I got my last free oil change today from the dealer and forgot to ask what brand of reg.oil they use ..Does anyone happen to know ?

 

Not sure what the dealership uses but more than likely whatever they can get the cheapest. Most people around here including myself recommend mobile1 synthetic.

 

I've got 15,000 miles on the truck and its got regular oil in it now ,can you switch to synthetic oil ? And whats the advanage?

 

I think my dealer uses Valvoline, if it's a conventional oil change. That's what they put on the invoice any way.

 

You can switch anytime. The two are compatable. Many people here, including me, run Mobil 1.

As for the advantages, you'd have to waterboard me to go there. Best bet is a search and you can read 20 pages of pros and cons. This topic comes up about every 20 threads.

 

+1

Probably 200 threads on the topic.

Short story, it's all good. The only drawback to synthetic is the cost.

 

Actually it's cheaper than dino oil if you run extended oil change intervals...which is fine to do with synthetic oil.

M1 Extended Performance/Fram Ultra here. Mobil says you can go 15,000 miles guaranteed...I play it safe and run 7500 mile OCIs.

Costs me approximately 44 bucks in materials at Wal-Mart (I have a PreRunner...it holds 5.5 qts.), and I only have to do it around twice a year.

I've got 101K miles on my truck, I've owned it since new, and it's had nothing but M1 in the crankcase since the 3000 mile mark. Doesn't use any oil and runs as good as it did the day I picked it up.

 

Yes and no. This is something pushed by the manufacturers because it makes the cost easier to justify, but those serious about extended intervals are installing bypass filtration systems, and those pushing over 15k are running UOA... and at $25+, it eats up the savings, and it's simply not economical for a passenger car or light truck.

It makes sense for larger and fleet vehicles were the savings can be significant (5+ gallons of oil, dozens of vehicles, etc...)

Fram Ultra?
The only difference is the color of the can.
It's still a crap filter with cardboard endcaps and a leaky bypass valve. You're better off spending $4 on a Toyota filter, which is as good as nearly any aftermarket filter with the possible exception of Mobil-1.

And on Mobil's 15k... they do indicate that you should stick with factory intervals while under warranty.
I'd like to see someone successfully complete a claim against them.

Don't get me wrong... M1 is all I use in any of my vehicles, except for the motorcycle where I'll use M1 or Amsoil. The Amsoil is a little better, but it's not worth the added cost.

 

I asked the dealership to switch me to synthetic on my 5K maintenance. They use Mobil 1.

 

Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 5/30

 

I haven't seen one cut open yet but I wouldn't think it would be exactly the same as their lower-line filters. Probably at least has metal end caps, a silicone bypass valve and better filtration media.

 

I'm on there. Handle = john pifer

 

Nope.
Same construction. I think it does have a better bypass seal, but the element is the same.

The only decent Fram filters are their air filters, fuel filters, and Diesel fuel filters.

 

You guys using the Mobil 1 Synthetic, which version are you running? The Mobil 1 Super synthetic or the Mobil 1 Advance Full synthetic? Seems like there are two 5w-30 versions out there??

Also assuming every Houston member flocked to one walmart (by my house) and bought up all Mobil 1, am I correct in forum searching/learning assessment that Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic 5w-30 will be a decent replacement? Not really looking for rec.'s on other brands, just looking for a primary and secondary choice which my yocal local wally world sells. And of course, all this assumes used in combo with a toyota filter and 5,000 OCI.

Tks guys-

 

I learned recently that the Fram Ultra has synthetic filtration media, so, as it turns out, it actually IS better than their standard offerings.

Mobil 1 is now, and has always been their "flagship" product. Mobil Super Synthetic is a more recent product that they've developed in order to be competitive with other, cheaper "synthetics."

As I understand it, neither are "true" 100% synthetics; Mobil 1 used to be, but modern chemistry has enabled a very high level of refinement from what are called "Group III" petroleum oils. This allows almost the same level of performance as was previously only possible with a "Group IV" PAO synthetic (poly alpha olefin). From what I've read, Mobil 1 still contains a portion of PAO, however. It's just not 100% PAO-based like it used to be.

Almost impossible to determine actual levels of synthetic that the different manufacturers are using, as it's proprietary info.

Lots of information out there if you want to do some research. As mentioned above, the message forum "Bob Is The Oil Guy" is a good place to start.

As to Pennzoil Platinum, it's been proven to be a really good oil from Used Oil Analyses that have been done by members over at BITOG. You would be well-served by it. That being said, you really won't get a return on your investment in synthetic oil if you're changing the oil that often. Modern conventional oils will do just fine on a 5000-mile OCI. But, overkill never hurt anything. Personally I run the M1 Extended Performance variety on a 7500 mile OCI. Probably wasting money, but it gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling

 

Fram's problem has never been an issue of their filtration media quality... it is the lack of media... 100sq/in or less in filters where Toyota has over 200... and their piss-poor construction and design.

 

Extended OCI is only one benefit of synthetic.
It is the benefit pushed by the sellers of the product because it allows them to tell their customers that it doesn't cost any more, but it is not the primary benefit.

Dig a little deeper into BITOG and move away from the threads discussing OCI.
I'd run a full synthetic even if I were running 3k change intervals.

 

Everyone knows syn has superior properties for motor oil use - that's not in question.

A lot of guys get excellent results using conventional, however, as proven by many used oil analyses.

For me, it comes down to wanting to use the best commonly available oil I can get at a reasonable cost.

Could I run M1 EP longer than 7500 OCIs? Probably, but I don't want to spend the $$$ on more than 1 UOA per year, and I feel that 7500 OCIs on this oil provide a reasonable cushion.

 

Agreed. At $25 for UOA, and only $40 for an oil change, it's really not worth it to try and go beyond 10k OCI.. you just aren't saving that much, and you're stuck with 5k until the warranty is over anyways.