2013 Regular Cab - Lift Advice

First post here, and I've been looking around a bit, but basically, I would like to fit 33's under my 4wd 2013 Regular Cab. Most people I see on here have done this with the OME lift or similar - I'm just wondering what do I need... some people say it's 2.75" of lift some say 3"... just wondering how much front + rear do i need to clear 33's.. I'm cool with getting rid of mudflaps and minor trimming, but am also on a budget.

Was thinking 2" add a leaf and 3" coils? Or should I look into another route? Want to be maybe a little more level than stock.

Sorry to make another post about this cause I see so many, but I just didnt see a very definitive answer, lots of conflicting info.

 

You're in luck. Someone just asked this exact question. Here's a link to the answer I posted up.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/4-cylinder/197043-2-7l-single-cab-thread-75.html#post5790559

Usual disclaimers apply: Everything stated in this message is to be considered my own opinion, and not an official representation of Microsoft Corporation or any other Microsoft employees. Actual mileage may vary. Price does not include tax, title, and license. Some assembly required. Each sold separately. Batteries not included. Objects in mirror are closer than they appear. If conditions persist, contact a physician. Keep out of reach of children. Avoid prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. Keep in a cool dark place. See a physician right away if stiffness persists for more than four hours.

 

And, if that turns out to be more than you want to be in for: Here's the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) alternative.

Agressive 265/75R16 tires on factory rims. (NOT aftermarket rims, they have more negative offset)
Bilstein 5100 shocks set at 1.75" (NOT 2.5 - you want to be able to keep a factory alignment, and not go "bro lean") with 5100s and "add a leaf" in back.

Depending on usage, might need to remove front mudflaps.

Done.

You have no idea how much those simple changes will affect the look of your regular cab.

 

So in the second case, there isn't a way to get an aftermarket wheel and a 265/75 in there? And how big of a add a leaf do I want for that 1.5?

Thanks for the help

 

Sure you can.

It's just that every further step away from stock increases the chances that you'll have more unintended consequences to deal with.

Wider offset wheels means you need more room in the wheelwell. You may end up trimming or forming plastic. You may end up doing a cab mount chop and pinch weld hammer. Or not. But the chance is there.

And at least one knowledgable mechanic thinks that increased wheel offset increases the chance of unintended VSC activation.

Also, you don't necessarily need to do all those things in the first version all at once. Personally, I added lift - then did UCAs later - then regeared after that.

So, pick your poison.

 

The cheapest way I believe would be to get 5100's from downsouth motorsports and a 2 inch AAL from toytec. That would be around $380 and you could get ~2.5 in the front and 2 in the back. You could clear the 33s but you would need to trim. I have reg cab too and am considering 33's but I don't want to have to regear.

 

BTW I have my 5100s at 1.75 and sit perfectly level without an AAL, so I think that going to 2.5 and adding the 2 inch AAL won't give you a bro lean, but every truck is different. I am pretty sure you can still get proper alignment at 2.5 but not at any higher.

 

IMO that is the biggest concern when adding the 33's, the factory gearing

 

Agreed, I'm really on the fence. My Kuhmo Road venture A/T's actually look a little more rugged than most highway tires, and the 285's in the Kuhmo's are only 52 pounds, which is actually lighter than some 265 M/T's, so I might be able to get away with 33s without regearing. That of course isn't taking into consideration the extra width and diameter. It will be slow as shit either way but I think I'm gonna do it next time I get tarrrrrs.

 

I do like having regeared to 4.88 with my 285/70R17, but it's hella expensive, and I ran that size for about a year on stock 4.10 gears which was bearable.

 

I've been running 33's for the last 3 years and 265's before that all on stock gears. Right now I have Nitto Mud Grapplers, 33x12.5x16's. They are heavy as hell compaired to the other 33's (same size) I had.


1.25 lift rear and 3" front and this is how it looks.

I'm not going to regear until I shove 35's under the fender wells, then I will go with 4:56 gears. Could it use gears now? Sure but not for 95% of the time it doesn't.

If I ever go with 35's, I will probably go back to the Kumho MT's as they are lighter but on the other hand I love my Nitto's, noise and all.

Most likley I will just stick to 33's and what I have been using. Not really worth all the hassle for 35's or the extra money and wear and tear on brakes and wheel bearings, steering components, etc.

 

No one ever points out that you will get a terrible noise from the front driver side carrier bearing. Lol call chase at east coast gear supply and get his bushing fuc for Toyotas shitty front carrier bearing.

 

Can I do this on my 5 lug base model single cab? I have to bump up to 16in rims as I currently have 15's. I am tired of my plain jane look.

 

bad ass truck

 

I would like to open this back up. i just bought a regular cab 4x4. i have two options in mind as far as lifts go:
-Bilsteins 5100 front and rear set to 2.5 and a 2" lift in the back, dif drop, all pro UCA
OR
-ARB Old man emu kit (i dont know if i would need the dif drop and UCA's for this kit)

which one is better value? i plan on doing light off roading/trail riding/camping and just want something durable, dependable, and gives a good ride. i am running hankook dynapro atm 265/75r16

 

If you only go with 5100s set at 2.5 - you shouldn't need UCAs or diff drop.

You don't mention how you'll get the 2" lift in the back - but add-a-leaf is recommended vs. using a block .

If you go with ARB old man emu on a reg cab - 884 springs are recommended. If you get "lift height fever" at the last second like I did, still go with the 884 springs, but add a half inch top plate spacer above the strut.

 

thanks. yea i would most likely do the add-a-leaf from all pro. So with stock UCA's and no dif drop i wont get any vibes or limited flex? would having the dif drop and upgraded UCA's help or is that money waisted? And i was trying to get at which suspension set up would be money better spent. Either the bilstein or the OME's.

 

bilsteins on factory springs for the softest ride on pavement

OME suspension for the best ride on very rough roads/off roading.

If you go with a full 3" of lift then you'll want the upper control arms. At 2.5" of lift - it's not really necessary and just makes it harder for the tech to align your truck.

Most folks here think the diff drop on our 2nd gen tacomas doesn't really meaningfully improve the CV angles. Naturally, opinions vary, however.

 

(4) 5100 set front 2.50 Rear AAL 1.50 tires 265/75/16 Dura's Load C rating is 6 lb Heavier than stock tires. Rims (4.5 BS)( 0 off set) No trimming No cutting with mud flaps

 

My Regular cab- 20% tint, in channel vent visors. Mud flap delete. Rear diff breather mod. 285/70r17 DuraTracs on fuel trophy wheels. 3 inch OME lift with Dakar leaf pack. Light Racing UCAs. Avid off-road rock sliders.