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New England B.S. Thread

Discussion in 'North East' started by mach1man001, Feb 16, 2012.

  1. Nov 1, 2012 at 6:26 AM
    #7501
    aidenhardcore

    aidenhardcore Well-Known Member

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    Yes I have inspected them. The right pads are warn and but still have alittle life left. The left ones are better and have good life left but if I'm doing one side, I'll do both.
     
  2. Nov 1, 2012 at 6:32 AM
    #7502
    Kirk1589

    Kirk1589 Well-Known Member

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    even if you dont need rotors buy them to save for future with the online discount code i used from retailmenot.com its $103.xx
    20fqaeu_1a23c5ac973e971a6aa89296f864e2d4a51945f5.jpg
     
  3. Nov 1, 2012 at 6:32 AM
    #7503
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    Just making sure you actually inspected them before jumping to the conclusion that they need to be replaced. And yes, if you're doing on side, you should replace both and make sure you bleed the brakes when you're done. I like to flush out the old fluid when I change the pads also, basically bleed the lines until the fluid is clear again. That last bit is a personal preference and you will hear mixed reviews on whether or not it is a requirement.
     
  4. Nov 1, 2012 at 6:57 AM
    #7504
    aidenhardcore

    aidenhardcore Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I have that code. I can get pads, rotors and Rain x wiper blades for 140. I saved 40 bucks. What a great deal.
     
  5. Nov 1, 2012 at 7:00 AM
    #7505
    aidenhardcore

    aidenhardcore Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the infor. I don't know yet if I'm doing them. I saw a coupe of youtube videos on replacing brakes on a tacoma so I'm gonna look into that and see If i can man up and do them. Even though my dad is like, just take it to dealer lol. I guess he would rather have me pay bolt loads of money to them to do it when i would rather save money and try and do it myself.
     
  6. Nov 1, 2012 at 7:12 AM
    #7506
    emelianenkov

    emelianenkov Santa/Alex Emeliahoweveryouspellhislastname

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    I had no idea what to do when I did my brakes. I learned on the left side and did the right with that new knowledge.

    Toyota wanted close to $1,000. It cost me $150 in parts. Fuuuuccckkkkk Toyota.

    Take it to the dealer if daddy pays for it Miguel. Easier said than done when it's someone else's money.
     
  7. Nov 1, 2012 at 7:21 AM
    #7507
    aidenhardcore

    aidenhardcore Well-Known Member

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    Daddy doesn't pay for anything. I pay for all my own shit. If I need help he is there but I won't ask. I feel bad. Toyota said 900 for me for brakes haha. Insane. No thank you. Like you said, 150 in parts and 3 hours of your time and your good to go.
     
  8. Nov 1, 2012 at 7:30 AM
    #7508
    emelianenkov

    emelianenkov Santa/Alex Emeliahoweveryouspellhislastname

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    So what's the holdup sunshine? There's your answer, it's cheap and easy to do yourself.

    If you fuck up, you'll get a new truck with new brakes*! *personal injury may occur*
     
  9. Nov 1, 2012 at 7:31 AM
    #7509
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    It'll take you a few hours at least if you've never done them before. It's a very simple process though. Remove the wheels, remove the pins holding the pads in place (pads will then slide straight out), unbolt the calipers (be sure to support them so they're not hanging by the ABS wire, I used a bungee cord), then you will see the 6 holes where your lug bolts come through the rotors and 2 extra holes that are threaded but nothing is going through them. Those 2 holes are jack holes. Find a bolt that fits them, and slowly and steadily tighten down on each one evenly and the rotor will pop off. If you get a lot of pressure on the bolts and it's not coming free, give the rotor a pop with a rubber mallet and usually the shock will pop it free. LATHER UP THE BACKSIDE OF THE NEW ROTORS WITH ANTI-SIEZE. This is important because, if you don't, good luck getting the next set of rotors on. The new rotors, unless they are OEM, will likely NOT have those 2 threaded jacking holes so the neverseize is very important. Reassmble everything in the reverse order making sure everything is torqued properly, bleed the lines out and you're done.
     
  10. Nov 1, 2012 at 7:34 AM
    #7510
    aidenhardcore

    aidenhardcore Well-Known Member

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    Haha sunshine lol. Your funny. I'm gonna try them and see what happens. Would be nice if I had a tw member with me Incase I fuck up and need help. I'm known to fuck up the simplest jobs and turn them into long hours. My luck isn't very good at all lol.
     
  11. Nov 1, 2012 at 7:38 AM
    #7511
    aidenhardcore

    aidenhardcore Well-Known Member

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    What good infor mike. Thanks. You explained it very well. Looks like ill have to print this out so when I do them, I can follow this and hopefully not mess up lol. Always a first time for everything I guess. That cord thing holding the caliper up is a good idea. You seem to know your stuff :). Will be happy when it's done .
     
  12. Nov 1, 2012 at 7:53 AM
    #7512
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    Check the 2nd Gen threads, there is probably a DIY with pictures and step by step instructions that would help you out a lot more than my quick write-up. I can't tell you how many times I've had my laptop on my engine cover with the TW write up on screen while I'm working on my truck.
     
  13. Nov 1, 2012 at 8:04 AM
    #7513
    Kirk1589

    Kirk1589 Well-Known Member

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    miguel ill do them for FREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
     
  14. Nov 1, 2012 at 8:05 AM
    #7514
    Kirk1589

    Kirk1589 Well-Known Member

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  15. Nov 1, 2012 at 8:28 AM
    #7515
    BostonBilly

    BostonBilly Well-Known Member

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    The rear brakes also come into play when you are talking pedal travel. When you do the fronts adjust the rears and flush system. When done this will put you thru the winshield. You keep saying the pass side is junk you will also have to check the calipers when you disassemble they should wear the same
     
  16. Nov 1, 2012 at 8:31 AM
    #7516
    emelianenkov

    emelianenkov Santa/Alex Emeliahoweveryouspellhislastname

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    ^^ agreed. Might have a seized caliper, I did and my braking SUCKED
     
  17. Nov 1, 2012 at 8:33 AM
    #7517
    aidenhardcore

    aidenhardcore Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I was just at dealer for warranty work for the blower motor. They checked and cleaned the rear brakes and stuff and I checked and yes they did do it and they just did the flush kit too. So I'm all set on that
     
  18. Nov 1, 2012 at 8:48 AM
    #7518
    Kirk1589

    Kirk1589 Well-Known Member

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    they flushed you PS not brake system
    IMG_4901_1bc486e2aa47734673496a8cf2df56f608d0845f.jpg
    IMG_4902_74509195ee5db5a25266b872dcfc86148ff5aba3.jpg
     
  19. Nov 1, 2012 at 8:58 AM
    #7519
    emelianenkov

    emelianenkov Santa/Alex Emeliahoweveryouspellhislastname

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    8a5a9uqa_12244ddfc4a5ba971db95a6806966b06b4cc77a7.jpg
     
  20. Nov 1, 2012 at 8:59 AM
    #7520
    BostonBilly

    BostonBilly Well-Known Member

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    ^X2 Well I see where they charged you for a can of brake cleaner but does that mean they cleaned and adj the rear shoes? After you clean them there is a couple of contact points as well as the adjuster that I like to lube
     

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