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DynoLock Electric Tail Gate Lock Install

Discussion in 'Product Reviews' started by Wrekreation, May 10, 2009.

  1. May 10, 2009 at 2:37 PM
    #1
    Wrekreation

    Wrekreation [OP] Member

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    I bought the high security actuator model for the the 2009 Tacoma 4 door 4x4, with long bed and tailgate camera. The lock was on sale from Dynolock (www.dynolock.com) for $114. TTF07CHSA

    This looked like it should be easy, I've replaced electric window motors before.

    The instructions are fair. There are some extraneous notes like "Reconnect threaded lock rod." But no where did I find an instruction to remove the threaded lock rod.

    Second toughest part was step 6 (install instructions are on their web page (http://site.dynolock.com/installation/toyota/ttf07c.htm). "Place the predrilled 1/4' hole in the DynoLock bracket over the threaded door lock handle stud. Install the spacer and bolt supplied by DynoLock. " What you really do is insert the 3/4" long bolt with a lockwasher, from the supplied parts, into the 1/4" hole in the Dynolock, then through the supplied spacer and bolt it to the tailgate using the hole that you pulled the original passenger side bolt from (throw the old bolt away). Pictures would have helped.

    Running the wires, and removing panels were fairly easy, though it is nice to know that you can just pull these panels off without special tools. It took me about 1 hour to do the 30 min task. There is no color coding to the wires even though the Dynolock itself, the wires to the front, and the truck wires are all different colors. You just have to decide what you want to do.

    The very toughest part was connecting the wires. Although the connectors work, identifying the correct wire is tough. Here's where pictures would have been helpful. In the door sill there are to bundles of cables. You are suppose to use the one that goes back to the rear of the vehicle and Not the one that diverts to the drivers seat. Then I looked for the Blue/Red and Blue/Black wires. If I had known these wires should be the same size that would have helped. The Blue Red wire is actually a light blue wire with a reddish/pink stripe and the other wire is black with a thin blue stripe.

    After reading several blogs I noticed one of the major problems is not crimping the connectors tight enough. The nice thing is Jim at DynoLock knows the vehicle backwards and forwards and when I called he walked me throught the process of finding the correct wire.

    Next, when I pushed the lock button all I got was a lonnnnnnng beeeeeeeep. I started checking connections. Later I learned that you get a lonnnnnng beeeep when your door is open and you try to lock the doors with the keyless entry system. That's why Dynlock recommends us use the lock/unlock button on the Driver's door.

    After all this the lock still would't engadge. After studying it for about 10 min I removed the dynlock and sliced off about 1/16 inch of nylon block that is part of the dynolock. It was pressing against the tailgate camera housing a prevented proper alignment. After trimming the 1/16, and reinstalling the DynoLock it worked very nice. I put it all together and it works very well. It unlocks with the passenger doors.

    I don't see any reason why the DynoLock won't last a long time. I originally wanted a Pop N Lock, but I got tired of waiting.
     
  2. May 21, 2009 at 6:18 PM
    #2
    High-Gear

    High-Gear Zombie Killer

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    TRD Supercharger, TRD Cat Back Exhaust, DR / Icon 2.5 Coilovers, Camburg UCA, TSB with AAL, Walker Evans 2.0 reservoir rear shocks, ARB Bull Bar, Smittybilt 10K Comp Winch, ARE Camper Shell, Con-Ferr Safari Rack, 4 KC Highlights on rack, 2 KC Rallye 800 on Bumper Armortech Off Road plate rear bumper. Firestone Airbags in rear, with Firestone compressor.
    I am purchasing one of these, but before I do....


    Does the long beep occur all the time once the thing is installed, thereby negating the keyless lock / unlock?
     
  3. May 22, 2009 at 12:18 PM
    #3
    Wrekreation

    Wrekreation [OP] Member

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    The long beep ONLY happens when you don't close the doors. If you have a remote entry system - open the door, leave it open and try to lock the door with the remote. Then try it again with the doors properly shut.
     
    maybedave likes this.
  4. May 23, 2009 at 2:39 PM
    #4
    archdynasty

    archdynasty New Member

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    It took me about 2 hours to do the job, but I did the same thing that Wrek did. I had to shave a piece of the nylon block like he did and I got the lonnnnnnnnng beeeeeeeeep too. Everything works great though. You can run the wires under the truck and even into the cab via the rubber boot under the driver's seat that has other wires going through it. This way it stays watertight. Now if only they had a locking gas cap or door, that would be great.
     
  5. Jul 14, 2009 at 2:24 PM
    #5
    Phlip4x4Sport

    Phlip4x4Sport Well-Known Member

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    New and Unmodified
    I was thinking about getting this but had a question.... With this installed can someone open up my main doorlocks by using a small 12 volt battery to the wires for the tailgate?
    Thanks,
    Phil
     
  6. Jul 30, 2009 at 9:41 PM
    #6
    Lifeoffroad03

    Lifeoffroad03 Well-Known Member

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    Did it come with the hot chick in the add
     
  7. Jul 31, 2009 at 4:11 AM
    #7
    Wrekreation

    Wrekreation [OP] Member

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    I wouldn't have a clue if you could us a 12v battery to open the doors (unless you are throwing it through the windows). I wouldn't want to try it for fear for frying something. I'd guess that you could open the drivers door sill on your taco and find the light blue wire with a reddish/pink stripe and the black with a thin blue stripe, splice in some wires, close and lock the truck and hook up your 12v battery. Let me know the results.
     
  8. Jul 31, 2009 at 4:18 AM
    #8
    T@co_Pr3runn3r

    T@co_Pr3runn3r XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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    There's a Stant locking cap. Better than nothing. Have had no issues with mine.
     
  9. Jul 31, 2009 at 5:33 AM
    #9
    PSUnick

    PSUnick Lets Go State!

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    Good observation Phil. I looked at the 2007 Tacoma Wiring Diagram, and it shows (page 202 and 203) the blue/red and blue/black wires are tied from the Body ECU to the power lock motors. I believe that you could unlock/lock the vehicle by putting a battery to these wires.

    I would NOT recommend anyone try this because without an understanding of the body ECU I can not say for sure that you won't damage it. Although my guess is that you won't damage it.
     
  10. Jul 31, 2009 at 5:34 AM
    #10
    PSUnick

    PSUnick Lets Go State!

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    He means tie a battery into the wires that are run back to the tailgate.
     
  11. Aug 3, 2009 at 5:26 AM
    #11
    DontPanic

    DontPanic Well-Known Member

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    Theoretically that should work as it appears all the lock actuators would be tied together as you are tapping the actuator feeds to power the dyno lock.
     
  12. Nov 1, 2009 at 10:16 PM
    #12
    joeshmoe423

    joeshmoe423 New Member

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    Hello I'm new to this forum and I just finished installing the Dynolock into my 2009 double cab. The lock works great and I installed the wiring for the lock using the blue wire with black stripe and blue wire with red stripe found behind the driver side kick panel. The lock works when the alarm is armed but my problem is when I disarm the alarm to unlock the driver side door the Dynolock unlocks also. I tried looking for a wire so the Dynolock will disarm with the passenger doors (pushing the alarm button the second time) but could not find it. Has anyone spliced into these wires behind the kick panel? I ran out of sunlight and did not want to guess with other wires worried I may blow something. Does anyone know if there is a wire that signals the locks after the second push of the alarm button? If so what color(s). Other than the wiring the lock is straight forward to install and works great.

    Thanks
     
  13. Nov 1, 2009 at 11:37 PM
    #13
    MudDog

    MudDog Member

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    I just installed in my dual cab 2010 last week.

    I believe your lock is unlocking on one press because you tied into the driver's door via the wires at the kick panel.


    If you take off the drivers side door sill (pull up and it will come off pretty easily) you'll see a couple of bundles of wire. The one that runs back towards the rear door (not the one that turns to the driver seat) also contains a blue-black and blue-red wire. You'll have to take off some electric tape and black protective wrap to see the wires.

    If you tap into the lock/unlock wires under the sill it should behave like the rear door (two presses on the remote to unlock).
     
  14. Nov 3, 2009 at 11:17 AM
    #14
    joeshmoe423

    joeshmoe423 New Member

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    Thanks for the reply and information.

    Lock works great (with a second press from the alarm button) and using the wires that route towards the back is the easiest way to without drilling I think.

    Thanks
     
  15. Nov 24, 2009 at 9:48 PM
    #15
    Fouey

    Fouey New Member

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    I just installed it on sunday 11/22/09 and was easy except for wiring to the car door after a phone call to tech support which they ansewred on sunday i was able to wire it easy and very easy to go thru rubber boot on the driver side door may want to get a few extra zip ties to do the job thou but i give it a 10 so far Fyi i used a battery to test the lock before i closed every thing up one of those jumper ones work good well hope this helps Ryan 2010 Tacoma
     
  16. Jan 10, 2010 at 8:40 PM
    #16
    threepeat

    threepeat Active Member

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    SnugTop Hi-Liner DynoLock Tailgate Lock Seatsavers for rear seat (dog!)
    Got mine installed today. Took a couple hours but I am not speedy at these things. All went pretty well. Lik ArchD I used the pathway under the driver seat and resealed with 10 mil tape. Most of the install went well although I did the wire in front first to make sure it all worked.

    On the 2010 DC the wire bundle is really tight. Hard to get enough wire loose to hook up the connectors. If you are OK at wiring might be better to plan ahead and splice in a little more wire.

    FYI I accessed the bundle just passed the split with the yellow wrap under the driver sill. I think yellow is the air bag circuits. I did not have to trim the block but I did seat it pretty tight to the camera.
     
  17. May 1, 2010 at 8:05 PM
    #17
    SLQ

    SLQ Member

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    I followed an install link on this post that was for a 2007 Tudra. It got me confused so I called Jim M.@ 5:30 pm pacific time Saturday night. Not a recording ...WOW! He got me on the right install and verified the wires. I put the red actuator wire on the Blue/Black and the and the Blue actuator wire on the Blue/Pink, Works great! When you wire it up under the door sill it unlocks the 2nd time you hit unlock on the transmitter. To get it to open on the first click I am going to move the connection to left kick panel tommorow. Dynolock has outstanding service and a Great product ! Highly recommended http://site.dynolock.com/installation/toyota05/tta05_instr.htm If you have any technical questions please call Jim Martin at 888-396-6562 P1020938_320500f570b43408d9f45b2011d6d7bc0deb0548.jpgP1020940_381e5bb057f497816b1f619546423e82c70ea5b8.jpg
     
  18. Jun 7, 2010 at 4:38 AM
    #18
    rob_s

    rob_s Well-Known Member

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    Anyone install one of these on a truck with something like a Viper or other aftermarket alarm system that let's you control it with a trunk release button?
     
  19. Jun 16, 2010 at 11:36 AM
    #19
    rob_s

    rob_s Well-Known Member

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    Anyone?
     
  20. Jun 21, 2010 at 9:57 AM
    #20
    cadzilla88

    cadzilla88 Member

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    Wrekreation - Thanks for the description it was very helpful

    SLQ - Thanks for the photos - a picture is worth a thousand words

    Both of you made the install easier
     

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