HELP! I need to reclaim an engine

chris how important are the filters. I already know your tier of preference for filters (roughly: Fram at bottom, Mobile1 in middle and OEM on top), but how important are they?

 

I phrased that wrong. How big of a difference do you see between mobile 1, OEM and say purolator filters

 

ok good, I got her the purolator filter plus 5 quarts of penzoil for $14.99, even though she takes 4.4 qts.

Another question: would it be bad if next time aroung I used 4 qts mobile one and .4 qt penzoil lol

 

dammit chris, i was hoping that the mobile1 5 qt and filter for $30 came around again and i could sneak a qt for myself

 

Help me pay for college and then tell me that

 

You shouldn't mix Dino and Synthetic oils in the same change..

 

Yup I have determined the short cut is not going to happen haha

 

If you can still find HD (High Detergent) oil, I would recommend running some HD-30 to get all the gunk out first, then go about your multiple oil changes.

Marc M

 

Most modern oil is HD. Mobil 1 is great. It's running in my diff. I'm too cheap to run it in my motor, I use Valvoline. But I've never had a problem running Valvoline. My old bug didn't have a filter, it had a mesh screen. I eventually fixed that but it's eye opening seeing the crap in the oil when no filter removes it. One motor I got from my cousin had been run on Pensoil and not changed regularly, it had two cracked pistols, terrible blowby and a overly rich mixture resulting in filthy oil. I pulled the valve covers and there was a black carbon mud filling the heads except where the valvetrain was. That was enough for me to wear it off forever.

My grandfather worked for Shell oil until 1980something, they did not change oil on mileage or hour intervals. Instead once a week they checked the pH of the oil and when it hit a certain pH it was changed. Due to oil molecule breakdown, carbon loading, water content, etc. He told me some motors got oil changed without being run. I wish he were still alive so I could gleen more information from him.

 

Ya I am running shitty dyno in first to help get the thick gunk that is left behind out. then I will change it to mobile1 at about 500 miles

 

I will just add, make sure the engine is warmed up before you drain the oil. It will help get some of that thick oil out of the engine. Oil flows better when it's warm.

 

Good tip! I figure it would be anyway since we are going to drive to the back of a parking lot on campus to do it. The pavement is already indented from the last time the offroad club did engine swaps

 

My wife has an 08 Beetle. The dealer suggest NOT to use synthetic in the VW's. They only recommend changing the oil in those things like every 10k miles as it is.

 

Sounds like he wants you to be in buying a new one quicker. Can you or anyone explain what the point to that is?